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Re: Advice on reliable disc rotors from china
Why do you need to subtract 12g for the bolts? Neither of these weights include 6 bolts so i think it wouldnt be necessary? Or am i missing something? No. Not missing anything. Just bad math on my part. Thanks for being nice about it. Lol The net weight increase is the adapter minus bolt weight. June 23, 2022, 06:54:56 PM |
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Re: *picture heavy* TFSA tarmac SL7 copy - sketchy AF
Sorry, off topic but id like to know what are your thought on the bars? Ive been considering the one pro bars for a while too. And the manufacturer direct price makes them even more tempting.. have you weighed them yet? Also, do they come with two sets of headset covers or something? In this screenshot from the alibaba page, they list type one and type two Hey thats alright  There is ZERO information about this bar on the internet so I understand your curiosity! I was gonna save it to later as I am gonna do a huge build thread once I got all pieces together.But here you go This one, I bought directly from the manufacturer on Alibaba it cost me $112 USD on Alibaba + $27 in taxes charged by Alibaba. I then got taxed again but only $11 on Swedish customs borders (main cost is a fee). Seller put value declaration of $11. After some hassle with Alibaba support and tax return request, I then got the $27 back as I was charged twice Weight is pretty decent for a 400x100mm bar. I was first gonna buy the Roval Alpinist as it is only 233 gram for same size, but this one is hundred times more AERO + it got a small degree of flare which is exactly what I was looking for + fully integrated wiring. I was sceptical at first, cheap bar, no information etc. But WOW!! Not ridden it yet, but my god it feels sturdy in hand. Doesn't matter how much pressure of force I use try to twist it. It is rock solid super stiff. Finish is TOP NOTCH! I have two 3T aeroghiaia bars which retail €349 euro a piece at 240 gram, they are way more flexy than this one. But they have the same high quality finish. Carbon inside looks very decent and the matte paint is very good. If you put this next to anything else I couldn't tell it was only a hundred bucks. My intention is to remove the paint and just run naked raw carbon with clearcoat. 350 grams including stem screws and mount (it uses two M6 hex screws and a pushplate against the steerer). The internal nut fasterners for computer mount works fine too, the classic matte 3K carbon computer mount from Aliexpress works perfect for this application. The handlebar comes with a few spacers inluding both of the two headset pieces you pictured above. BUT!!!! bear in mind, please go back to my other pictures and you will see that the included compression ring ONLY works with frames with a recessed headset bearing. My bearing is leveled with the frame, hence it will not work as the compression ring is way too thick, therefore I will/have come up with a custom solution that I will try later on. There are, as discussed earlier in the thread, custom pieces you can buy from one seller on AliE for different frame models. But they charge $63 USD for a Tarmac SL7 adapter which is ridiculous for a plastic piece considering the entire bar is just twice the price. Again, it is incredible stiff by my judgement. There is just no way I can put any flex in it by twisting the bar ends. !!! AND a very important thing to notice!! I bought the 400mm wide version, but they measure C-C bar ends. So the real measurement is 385mm C-C hood to hood. Which is perfect for me as I like it narrow, but maybe not for all. So if you are using a 400 bar and want 400mm hood to hood, go up one size Here is the link to the manufacturer, the ones on Aliexpress are just re-sellers with branding. There is also a gravel version of the same bar with wider bar ends. As Alibaba is usually, mainly B2B, I chose the "samle version" to only buy one handlebar. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal_1600457733782.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I   
July 15, 2022, 03:17:57 PM |
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The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play - Please Add Your Advice Here
Hey Everyone, I wanted to create a guide to help troubleshoot headset play regardless of bike brand. By no means am I an expert, and I hope others can add to this thread. Please understand this guide/thread isn't intended for airing our bike brand grievances or calling out user errors. Ultimately we all just want our bikes to work as intended. Common Reasons For Headset Play 1. Steerer/Fork isn't cut low enough, or an extra spacer is required above the stem to properly compress the top cap. When initially cutting the steer tube, an extra 2-4mm below the cut line needs to be accounted for in order for the top cap to recess properly. 2. The headset bearing (upper or lower) doesn't sit inside the head tube cup snug enough (laterally, front to back). Velobuild, for example, provides 52mm diameter headset bearings. Other headsets sold online or for other bike brands may only be 51.8mm diameter. That 0.2mm is the difference between a snug fit or loose headset. If your bearings are loose this will always cause play. You can add a couple layers of tape inside the bearing cup to prevent the bearing from moving around. Or just buy a new 52mm headset. 3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap. 4. The upper and lower headset bearings are installed in reverse. Some bikes (like Yoeleo's recent G21 gravel bike) provide a set of headset bearings, with one of the two bearings being slightly thicker than the other. The thicker of the two bearings needs to be installed on top of the head tube, and the thinner bearing on the bottom. If these two bearings are installed in reverse order then...see Common Issue #3 It is critical to do a dry run of installing the crown race, headset bearings, c-ring, headset cap, stem/cockpit, and any additional spacers before actually proceeding to building up the bike. Also be sure to compare and inspect the two headset bearings to confirm they are in fact the same size and thickness. August 02, 2022, 02:23:09 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Hello and good morning! Also new to the forum, there is some great info around this thread, i haven't been able to collect and read every page yet, but you stumble upon some good stuff. I think once i got confirmation, i'll compile it down to a google sheet for everyone to consume. In order to prepare the build i collected the torque specs for all the bolts from Chris:
I would also like to get the specs from the axle, but he only mentioned that they will be on the axle itself. has anyone found a link for this on the Robert Through Axle project or elsewhere? I will probably buy another one. He also said that the SL7 headset compression ring + Di2 seatpost battery holder should work. For the Bearings i got these specs so far, will post an update once i got it all confirmed:
August 04, 2022, 02:44:55 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Do you have a spec for your build? Mine is 7.9kg's and I'd like to try and loose a bit of weight on it I’ll do a more detailed review soon hopefully, but in short: Juin tech, sensah empire pro, lightweight rotors, bottlecage, bar tape, rims, tubes, tires etc. Or in other words: researching every single part considering cost vs weight also. I might consider doing a YouTube video if there’s enough interest and time, let’s see. August 04, 2022, 08:26:54 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
...just waiting for my saddle clamp to arrive  The seat post is being propped up by cardboard inside the frame for photo purposes LoL August 06, 2022, 09:19:28 AM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
Also as promised, i collected all the specs and products from reading every page that i thought matter to collect here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0 It includes torque specs, bearing specs, alternative headsets + stems, SL7 parts, bolt specs, geometry table and links for the loctite that i used August 10, 2022, 03:44:59 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
I updated the sheet today with the Axle Info and organised new products and images into the tabs (: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0 August 11, 2022, 05:56:25 PM |
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset. And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is. Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels. September 02, 2022, 06:52:01 AM |
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And the winner is....
The winner is... mwh0169! Just email eddy@haidelibicycle.com and order your FM-M009 hardtail frame. Congrats! Hope you enjoy it. Please do share a build thread... It's always cool to see what people choose to do with their freebies. As a side note, the one thing I don't like about these giveaways is that everyone has to put their trust in me to conduct a fair contest and, as far as I can tell, there isn't really a good way to choose a winner that would allow you all to witness the drawing process. I thought there would be some type of app or something, but not that I could find... So, just for those that may be interested, all I did was list all of the valid entries in a spreadsheet and and go to Google's random number generator and input the amount of entries and took the first result. In the future, if anyone has any better ideas, I'm open. Thanks to all that participated! September 19, 2022, 09:49:15 AM |
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