Quote from: Eskae on February 15, 2026, 10:15:34 AM
Is this still for sale?  I'm in the USA on the East Coast.  Please email me at skpearson *at* gmail dot com if it's still available.

Just sent you an email

Dropping price to $150

Also, I am dropping the price to $200!

Hi, I am in Massachusetts USA. Happy to get a shipping quote anywhere.

Hi all!
Cross posted in classifieds but I am selling my Riro carbon crankset. 165mm length crank and DUB spindle. I have a 130BCD spider on there with a 54t pass quest chainring. The crankset has a few hundred miles and the chainring is brand new. I am selling because it does not mesh well with my Sram AXS group-set and I am caving in and buying the E1 crank arms from Sram. I will get you a shipping quote if you message me. $250 OBO for the whole thing.

Hello,
I am selling my Riro Carbon Crankset in 165mm length DUB spindle with a 54t Pass Quest 1x Chainring. The crankset was used for a few hundred miles, and the chainring is brand new. I am selling because I run Sram AXS and the chainring does not mesh well with the system. The crank arms and spindle are in excellent condition. I will include the preload adjuster and spacers. $150 OBO. Great opportunity to try out shorter cranks on a budget! Feel free to message me with questions.
(SOLD)

Posted in the Riro discussion as well, but just a heads up to everyone who uses this style of crankset. The internal spline lock ring that holds the 8mm bolt in the crankset can become loose. It is also reverse threaded so it seems to be very hard to source a replacement. Mine came loose and I lost it during a ride, so there is now some play in the crankset. Make sure these are tight! Also, if anyone has any ideas where I could source a replacement please let me know.

Quote from: chinapal on November 06, 2025, 01:09:41 PM
If I could replace this piece I can still use the crank set. It's a shame to throw it away for such a small part. Any Idea where to look for such a thing?

Any luck here? I have the same issue. It did not break but I guess it loosened up while riding and that piece is now missing from my crank set. I sent them a message to see if they can ship me a replacement. I'll update on what they say.

Quote from: gbrnole on June 25, 2025, 10:03:37 AM
probably should get those threads in the frame cleaned up at the same time. they're a bit flattened and will probably crush softer threads on a new through axle again. the dimensions (axle length, diameter and thread pitch) are usually printed directly on the through axle. just match those if so and perhaps increase length by a millimeter or two?

appreciate it! I found this thread repair kit that I will give a try: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3X9V4SG?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&previewDohEventScheduleTesting=C&csmig=1&th=1

Thank you for the suggestions everyone. Is the thru axle for the x68 a standard sl8 thru axle? I am going to try using a longer thru axle to start

Quote from: Sander2177 on June 24, 2025, 06:22:12 PM
Hey, sounds like you're talking about the metal insert for the rear thru-axle threads. If the threads are stripped, a good bike shop should be able to re-tap it for you. If it's only slightly damaged, they can usually clean it up with the right tap. Worst case, if the threads are really gone, they might be able to install a thread insert like a Heli-Coil. Either way, it's fixable — just take it to someone who knows what they're doing and make sure they confirm the correct thread pitch before starting.

gotcha. i feel as though this should not have happened though, so if the metal is too weak to properly hold a thread then it would most likely happen again.

Welp, I have a major issue to report.
A few days ago I noticed a slight ticking/movement coming from the drivetrain. At first I thought it was the bottom bracket/crankset so I took that apart and made sure everything was greased, torqued, and installed properly. I then go to take the rear wheel out and make sure the derailleur hanger is tight when I notice that the thru axle isn't able to be tightened properly. It seems as though the receiving end for the thru-axle that sits in the rear triangle is stripped. I haven't done anything out of the ordinary when installing/removing the rear wheel so it appears overtime the threads have simply weakened and now are fully stripped. I am unable to install the thru axle with proper torque now which results in movement of the rear wheel. Major issue because this receiving "nut" is embedded in the frame so I believe the frame is toast. I will reach out to Tan Tan and see what they say.
Link to a video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19ewEcFWWuFFNCd8AgNmx1uFb7_gkYfKj/view?usp=share_link

will you be painting the frameset yourself?

Quick update on my frame. I have around 500km on it at the moment and still zero issues. I do wince a bit when I ride over big potholes, almost in preparation for a a fork failure, but nothing concerning has happened. I also am now checking the fork after every ride both visually and with the coin test to make sure things look good. Happy customer so far

Looks like it's right where the brake hose enters the fork. I'm looking at mine and pressing it and it seems very strong/sturdy. Definitely nerve-racking though...
I guess another benefit of ordering a raw carbon frame is you can look at the weaves and maybe pick up on carbon failure earlier