Quote from: Olli on October 22, 2026, 03:22:24 AMHello everyone!
I wondered if the official Trek speedconcept aero bottle would fit in the frame? (Size L)
I have seen the 3d printet toolbox, for uci time trial a aero bottle would be the only legal option tho...

I literally put a photo of this a few posts ago.
Doesn´t hurt to investigate a little.

Quote from: Kel-vin on October 19, 2026, 10:12:43 AMIt only creaks when I hold the handlebars near the shifters—especially when I stand up to accelerate after a corner.
When I'm in my TT position, there's absolutely no creaking, even when going over speed bumps.
So, the issue must be in the stem or the base bar.

How did you secure your base bar?

If I remember well, the 4 bolts were tighten at 6nm max. But I think that maybe your handlebars bend too much with your weight.
I cut mine to fit the TRP brake handles so mine are shorter..I don´t remember how much but 4/5cm.
Never had any creaking sound

Quote from: muringuets on October 19, 2026, 05:51:21 AMhttps://www.amazon.com/IIIPRO-Hydraulic-2-Piston-Bearings-Compatible/dp/B0GN3HG43K?th=1

III Pro TT Levers, as far as I know, the cheapest option $89.99

Great info.
U$90 a parir? That is unbelievable. Has anyone tried these?

Quote from: Ludo on October 18, 2026, 09:02:57 PMsuper expensive too...

I think I managed to find some TRP 910 at very good price, with leap adapter for the blips the integration is super clean, paired with Zrace calipers, it's should do the job. the whole think should cost less than $350 (excluding blips)

Well that is what I have...SRAM 1x. But I bought the trp with calipers. And I have the leap adapters in the brakes and in the aerobars. It´s a couple of hundred U$ more but having gears in the handlebars it´s handy.

Quote from: Ludo on October 18, 2026, 09:25:06 AMLooking for brake levers options for triathlon build. Outside of TRP and SRAM, i don't see a lot of option and nothing on the budget side of the spectrum. Planning on going 1x with SRAM axs/blips.

Anything out there that I am missing?

There are the Ltwoo levers. Won´t work with sram axs system (I assume) but will break.

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005008997032416.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=677-394-9260&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=_oFgTQeV&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=es1005008997032416&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107826000&ds_e_product_country=AR&ds_e_product_language=es&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=23875930704&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23875955217&gbraid=0AAAABCtupDPpJT4DnOO8vhZb8RVC11nPr&gclid=CjwKCAjw3NHWBhANEiwAtpwId3CymMMbTRQNGQjBQhKsksbIOOgiU_UD0x-YGTIZx7p_EeNsUkVnmRoCbwYQAvD_BwE

Quote from: Kel-vin on October 18, 2026, 10:49:23 AMHere I am again.
In my previous post, I mentioned the creaking stem problem.
I got a new one from Chris back then, and I thought it was solved.
However, after several rides, it is creaking again.
I doubt it is my stem and not the handlebars themselves.
I tightened my stem to 9 Nm
expander to 12 Nm
I first tightened the rear handlebar bolts to 4 Nm; those are the bolts close to the headset
and then the front ones to 4 Nm.
Everything is mounted with carbon paste; am I doing something wrong?
My cover is also recessed a few millimeters relative to the top of the stem.

I emailed Chris about this problem again; as of today, no response yet. Do you guys possibly know the solution?

Is it creaking while riding all the time, or on the handlebars or on the aerobars?
At first it wasn´t creaking and it started after?
Do you feel it bending when hitting a bump or speed limiter on the road?

I´m using 12cm of spacers as you can see in the picture. Just add a washer in the bolts heads of the spacers screws, below the handlebar.
I also put a picture of my aero bottle because I found this is a simple solution. It is the original trek bottle and cage, with an adapter that I bought on Ali. I also made a hole in the back of the bottle cage to make it secure.

Hey. This is my point of view (and sorry for my english).
I´m 46 yo and live in Argentina, so we all kinda live with tariffs, taxes and inflation. We eat and sleep economic crisis.
Also periods of extreme opened or closed economy.
Long story short, politicians need money. More and more. So if they can´t tax producers (because there aren´t any), they tax consumers (or importers, the same).
Or they tax "transactions", services, walking or breathing. They don´t care, they want your money.
You will need to find the sweet spot where they take you the least amount of money. Study the laws, exceptions, when or what it´s conveniento to buy or not.
But you will pay more for the same, that´s for sure.
It takes time (time is money, rigth?) but you learn at last.
What can you do? Vote differently if your political partys are really different. Here, there is no way out, on election day we have to pick our poison.

Hope this helps for something (?)

Quote from: Tobi on October 05, 2026, 01:25:06 AM
Hi everyone, today I'm taking the TT bike out for its first ride. The build went completely smoothly. The extensions on the base bar seem a bit long to me; I'm curious to see how the bike handles. I'm still waiting on my disc wheel, so I've got my training wheels on for now. The cockpit felt a bit flexy during the initial roll-out—what do you guys think of the bike?

Great build! Congratulations!!
I cut the extensions to fit my trp brakes. You can cut them with a saw, just make sure you hace enough spaces to fit your brakes.
Are you using the carbon or aluminium stem?

I have the Zrace as others mentioned here (the blue ones)
No problems with bleeding. I use them in my BXT145 with Wheeltop EDS tx.
I haven´t change the pads yet, but the wheels still lock when I press the brake.

As far as I know, for TT you don´t always want wider because at some point it will penalize your aero savings.
I don´t see pros going more than 28mm in TTs or triathlons (yet).
What you don´t want is the tyre being wider than your rim.
This photo is from my wheels, i bought a "princeton carbonworks" 3 spoke and rear full disc. The sheet says that both wheels have 21mm internal and 28mm external diameter. They have a GoodYear Supersport FFr in 28mm.
I think they are a good match.
Hope it helps.

Quote from: corax on September 14, 2026, 12:33:51 PM
Hello everyone,

I recently bought a wheelset from AliExpress. After removing the rim tape, I noticed that some of the transparent clear coat seems to be coming off the rim. I contacted the seller's support team and they refunded me 10%.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Since it's only on the inside of the rim, I assume it doesn't affect safety, but I'd be interested to hear if this is common.

Thanks!

Well never seen that. I asume (just a guess) that for some reason they didn´t clean thoroughly the inside of the rim before they apply the clear coat so it didn´t cure ok.

Quote from: Tririder on September 19, 2026, 12:59:22 AM
Hi all,

I have recently purchased a WinowTT129 frame set, admittedly without much research as I should have perhaps. The thing is that the geometry fitted me very well on paper and I liked the frame as a whole. I know that many think of the 28cc clearance as a backward development, but I personally don't mind it much. I also wanted to build a custom Chinese full built as a project. But oh my God the handlebars. It feels completely impossible to ride it, very twitchy and unstable. Turning is also very difficult and I noticed how the stem was scratching the fork, although I  managed to fix that. Anyway, i want to give it a few more tries out before starting this experiment, but given that the slack is 73.5°, which is very similar to a road bike, would you consider turning this frame into a road bike version? I know I need to get a different handlebar, new hydraulic discs and road shifters, but if it's worthwhile I'd be happy to try it out.

Hey man. I did this experiment a few years ago with an old Felt B12 TT frame. Change the handlebars and the levers (everything from Ali) and it worked like a charm. Very very fast, super aero bike and was very comfortable (if you compare it to a TT position). Just do your research and get the right stem lengh and you will sure need to rise it if you want to ride a few hours non stop.
Now I have this setup permanently on my trainer and it´s great.
Hope it helps.
Cheers

Quote from: Juul on September 17, 2026, 06:45:12 AM
Based on my own experience:
I used 4-5NM for the stem crews (clamping the handlebar), 4-5NM for the spacer towers, extension to baseplate just untill fixed (probaly also around 4NM but don't know for sure).
The clamping of the massive alloy stem onto the steerer tube needed around 8NM of torque to grip the steerer enough. I am thinking you need the high force to bent the clamping of a solid alloy stem (because the stem still slips onto the steerer otherwise).
I would advise increasing the torque with increments of 1NM just until the bars don't spin anymore

I agree with the previous post. 5-6nm in general it´s enough with carbon asembly paste. But for the aluminium stem I used 10nm because the steerer tube kept slipping.
Good luck!

Quote from: parinaus on August 25, 2026, 11:25:49 PM
Yes I sent Chris a few messages. He said push harder but not possible. Have a look at the photos attached.

"Push harder"
Unbelievable!
There is a pic of my bike, you can see that it is completely flat in the fork. So Chris or whoever sent you the wrong crown has to take responsibility


P.D: We've been having problems with the headset and the stem since we built our bikes. We ordered new aluminuim stems and Chris didn´t sent us the new washer needed. And if you read this post, you can see that simmilar issues are recurrent.
What annoys me the most is that this frame has been in the market for a few years and they never bother to solve desing issues. Same happened to other frames from Velobuild. I don´t think I could recommend this brand to anyone I know.