Quote from: Ultramic on July 15, 2026, 06:46:50 AM
It looks like the release of this groupset is imminent. It recently made a debut on the Twitter x7 bike and I found a rebadged version on Google called "whaleroad r7" - https://www.mywhaleroad.com/

IMHO this is the funniest name a chinese brand has come up with so far 

Quote from: Serge_K on July 14, 2026, 03:36:50 AM


Would be curious to see a build video, routing hoses through that must be an adventure. Impossible to change the stem without de-cabling everything, btw, so you can't buy 2-3 stems and casually swap them for bike fit.
I also really doubt you can run mechanical shifting + hydro hoses in there.
I'm no engineer, but a stem is big, so it can be thin + strong. This system replaces the stem with 2 narrow tubes, so they need to be thicker.
I wonder about build quality, weight, ease of use, ride quality.
Kudos for innovating though.

I asked about mechanical shifting earlier in this thread and someone confirmed that mechanical would be impossible due to small routing holes in handlebar/stem.

Quote from: Leon1234 on July 13, 2026, 04:33:23 AM
Does the handlebar consist out of two pieces so V-Stem and then the bar itself or does it just look like it? And if so can the stem be ordered seperately to save some money when trying out a different bike fit?

At page 2 in this thread there is pictures of the frame in the box. There  you can see that the handlebar and y-part is two different pieces that mount together. I don't know if the stem can be ordered separately though.

I think the geometry suits me quite well still. My current road bike, Felt F15 size 58 from 2005, gives me a comfortable position but the frame is too big for me. The reach is slightly shorter (16mm) on the R8RS and the stack is the same as the R8RS (according to geometry chart) but if I include the rise of the bar I will still get a slightly higher position. I think the 120 stem on a size 56 should make for a nice position for me.

I appreciate both of your inputs regarding the geometry.

Quote from: Serge_K on July 08, 2026, 04:24:59 AM
the stack is low AF (the stack they claim is wrong by the height of the bars, which is enormous. You end up with a very very low stack. They dont disclose the tyre clearance which is a huge red flag, apparently it's 34mm? says who, is it true, who knows. Historically these were 500$ frames, until one day they just jacked up the prices. It's like yoeleo. Yoeleo is youtuber catnip. They charge a premium for stuff that should cost 500$.
At the right price, this would have been interesting a year or 2 ago. Now i'm not considering anything that can't clear 35C (not 35mm, mind you).
So, wrong geometry, wrong price, and outdated.

Tire clearance from their website (just search 34 and it will show): https://avengerbikes.com/blogs/news/aero-validation-avenger-r8rs-wind-tunnel-performance-report

So the stack given in their geometry chart is including the handlebar rise?

I found it on a french webshop as well which would give me free shipping and 2-year warranty according to EU law (I am from EU country). I am very tempted!

I am a bit surprised that only one person has posted a build with this bike. Has anyone else ordered one?

Quote from: Dan S. on July 03, 2026, 08:10:14 AM
Why would you do that 

Cheaper ofc 

Quote from: crwlv888 on June 11, 2026, 12:26:29 PM
The frame was packaged and protected very well, and the entire bike is equipped with silver titanium bolts.

According to the frame geometry chart, the handlebar rise is between 70.8 and 82.5mm. However, since the head tube drops by about 30mm, you actually need to subtract 30mm from the stack value. The seatpost has a 5mm setback (sadly, there wasn't a 0mm inline option).

Once assembled, the bike looks great.

Love the look of it!

Which groupset did you build it up with? Do you think it is possible to build it with mechanical shifters?

Thank you for the answer! I guess I will contact them and ask about pricing then, its seems to be cheaper to buy it from their official website instead of AliX.

I am thinking of doing a build with the Hygge Model S EPS molded frame. I have been reading a little bit here and there in this thread, but since its 45 pages I have not read it all. Is there some usual problems or quirks that you all have discovered when building it up and how did you deal with it? For example I remember reading about the seatpost slipping, play in the headset or just trouble getting the spacers seated properly. I also wonder if I just can use bubble wrap or something similar to put the Di2 battery in the seatpost? And lastly, do you think it would be wise to ask for an extra seatpost and clamp since they are proprietary?