Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Mokora

Pages: [1]
1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« on: April 12, 2026, 02:29:12 PM »
also, I may have an even bigger issue...

After assembling and sitting on the bike for the first test, the seatpost (tightened to spec with Torque Wrench, applied carbon paste) slipped all the way to the seatstays and became fully stuck. No pulling/tapping + oil etc helped. I am afraid it is wedged into the frame composite.
I am going to message Velobuild for a warranty claim before moving to more destructive removal options. Any ideas on removal? What are the odds the frame is toast?

Cheers!

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« on: April 11, 2026, 07:32:30 PM »
I still have the old carbon stem. The tolerance between the headset and stem is perfect, about 0.5-1mm.
But because the stem and handlebars flex so much, I feel the stem rubbing down on the head tube when steering in the base bars. This makes the handling really unpredictable and unsafe.

Anybody else encountered this problem?

3
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ArcRayo Powermeter
« on: November 10, 2025, 02:15:50 AM »
I see, good on you!

Yes sir, although I really only need another wheelset and crankset.
I'll decide last minute if I should get another Magene P515, because even though it has proprietary mounts, at some point I will have all crank lengths anyhow haha. But the ArcRayo/Zrace combo looks really sweet as well.

4
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ArcRayo Powermeter
« on: November 09, 2025, 04:18:05 PM »
Quote from: cLs_elite on October 15, 2025, 03:48:57 AM


Edit: OK, fuck it — I just pulled the trigger and decided to build a new bike. First part ordered!
Got the ZRACE UNCHAINED Power Meter + Crankset 165mm (Link 2) for 220 CHF (~275 USD). That’s half the price of the Magene TEO P515 and “only” about 60 g heavier.
I really hope I didn’t miss anything and won’t regret this decision — definitely a 100% impulse buy.

220CHF?! So 240€ - that's crazy cheap, even the current 11.11 deal does not come close. How did you manage that?

5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Which Hubs does Lightcarbon / ProX use?
« on: November 09, 2025, 06:59:08 AM »
Quote from: toxin on November 08, 2025, 10:00:53 PM
https://h-works.cn/products/hw-261-rear

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009783447099.html

Both H-works and the AliX seller do not seem to sell the Hub cover individually?
How likely would a generic 36T Ratchet HUb fit the C68D Hubs? Would something like this fit?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006732306769.html

6
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Which Hubs does Lightcarbon / ProX use?
« on: November 08, 2025, 12:33:08 PM »
I have this Wheelset with HG Hub Body, and inquired with LC about the XDR Hub Cover. They wouldn't tell me which model they use and quoted me ~100$ shipped.
I would imagine it's a wholesale Hub, of which you can find the Hub Covers for much cheaper on Alix?

https://www.proxcarbon.com/prox-butterfly-weave-c68db-super-light-full-carbon-spoke-disc-road-wheels_p118.html

Any idea which Hub this could be?

Thanks!

7
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Ltwoo ER9 FD won't shift inboard enough w/ Senicx PR3 Crank
« on: November 03, 2025, 03:37:11 PM »
Quote from: mashiro2004 on November 03, 2025, 06:35:20 AM
If you have 12 speeds and are European, rather than going with Aliexpress cranksets, I recommend this one:

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/FC-RS520-Crankset-p89707/?o=1000349732-black-172-5-mm-34-50&delivery_country=IT&upid=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21150995039&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAiAwqHIBhAEEiwAx9cTeRz4Iyn_755dAh1PgMEqANYcvcXU0i6IdMfpr5YZDtSt8OXIbyPp8xoCLYMQAvD_BwE


perfect, thanks. Ordered it.

8
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Ltwoo ER9 FD won't shift inboard enough w/ Senicx PR3 Crank
« on: November 02, 2025, 05:15:51 PM »
Quote from: jonathanf2 on November 02, 2025, 04:50:57 PM
Use Shimano chainrings even if you need to use a 4 bolt asymmetric to GXP 3 bolt adapter. Shifts much better than that crappy EVOSID chainring.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009314588334.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.5d1a193dmOsy65&algo_pvid=e3f8482c-5952-4a07-b121-4847f84fca97&algo_exp_id=e3f8482c-5952-4a07-b121-4847f84fca97-4&pdp_ext_f=%7B"order"%3A"21"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2129.42%2110.59%21%21%21236.30%2185.06%21%402103835e17621252223092183e5461%2112000048718096487%21sea%21DE%212750104567%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Ab70a2bfa%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=edfUXydoSmJ0&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009314588334%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-review

using this adpater... from evosid?  8)

9
Component Deals & Selection / Ltwoo ER9 FD won't shift inboard enough w/ Senicx PR3 Crank
« on: November 02, 2025, 01:55:07 PM »
I'm running in circles over here :(

I´ve build up a second LCR017-D with ER9 v3 and an Evosid 24mm alu spindle crankset. The dub-style locknut loosened, it creaked and also needed 8mm of spacers since it was made for both 68 and 73mm bb shells.

I then ordered the Senicx PR3, which should perfectly fit the T47 68mm BB without any spacers. I reused the Evosid 2x Chainrings, which are 3bolt. But while I had the LTWOO FD tuned all the way to the outer maximum with the 8mm spacer setup, now, the  ER9 front derailleur cannot shift down to the small chainring, even with the lowest limit in the app. Only by adding a 2mm spacer (not intended via the senicx instructions) did it shift, but even in the biggest cog/small ring, the chain still rubs the inner rail of the FD.

I also tried a Magene P505 Crankset with the 2x QED Chainring (from my other LCR), which has a 1.5mm longer spindle compared to the senicx. Here, everything shifts well.
Would the setup possibly work with the senicx chainring instead of the evosid? I thought there is no difference in chain line offset on 2x chainrings...
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008361096328.html?spm=a2g0o.tesla.0.0.28e6ojEmojEmL3&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2175%2C33€%2132%2C39€%21%21%21%21%21%40211b612517621094163554578e3063%2112000044719687873%21btfpre%21%21%21%211%210%21&afTraceInfo=1005008361096328__pc__c_ppc_item_bridge_pc_main__KzG1jIZ__1762109416471&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu


Please help me understand this mess!





10
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: October 01, 2025, 02:55:37 AM »
Quote from: geramonta on October 01, 2025, 02:49:09 AM
I'm in the process of building my bike, and the small cogs are making a lot of noise around the cassette, not the derailleur. I don't know if it's the cassette or the chain.

My setup consists of a Senicx PR3 crankset with a 42-tooth Goldix chainring with a 0 mm offset and a 49.7 mm chainline. The cassette is a Goldix MTB for a 12-speed 10-51-tooth XD freehub mounted on an XDR freehub with a 1.85 mm spacer behind the cassette. The chain is a stock SRAM GX 12-speed chainring and a GEX wheeltop derailleur.

Can you tell me what it could be? Is this normal, or do I need to change something?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tbQw9ZkT-M

On paper you should need a 3mm offset chainring, but technically you should get more trouble on the big cogs currently, so ymmv. Chainline is a funny thing.

11
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« on: September 30, 2025, 01:10:52 AM »
Quote from: klindsey00 on September 29, 2025, 10:13:18 AM
Reach on TT bikes is different compared to road bikes because of the drastic seat tube angles, your whole body is rotated forward around the bottom bracket.
I'd look at your effective top tube measurments, since that is going to be the true measurment from saddle to stem. which would be close ish to your butt to your shoulders (if you have a 90 deg torso to arm)

I'd say you have to be creative with the cockpit, you have a little bit of reach adjustment to the arm cups and whatver stack you can get with the spacers. Any major reach adjustments you'd probably need to have a plate made.

thanks for confirming that its going to be rough.
Checked out your post and it makes me quite unsure - M means tons of spacers, L means too much reach. Could shorter Aero Extensions offset some reach? I was under the impression they should be seen apart from the rest of the system, fitting to the actual arm length instead...

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« on: September 29, 2025, 04:55:18 AM »
Let me tap into the beautiful swarm intelligence - I'm stuck between a Medium and a Large.

Height: 182.5 cm (approx. 6'0")
Inseam: 88 cm (34.6")
Elbow to wrist: 28cm

so I am all leg, no torso.

Currently riding a LCR017 in 56 with 380/90.
I experience light lower back pain after 4-5 hours of riding. So the reach of 396.4mm is probably just a tad too long.

TT-023 has:
Size M: Stack 501 mm / Reach 411 mm
Size L: Stack 525 mm / Reach 429 mm


Case for Size M:

- 411mm reach is better suited for a shorter torso. But I have no idea how drastically you lean forward on a TT compared to road, negating some of the extra reach.
- The M's lower stack (501mm) offers a higher aerodynamic ceiling. It's always possible to add spacers to go up, but impossible to make the L's 525mm stack lower.


Case for Size L:

- Sizing charts for the Trek Speed Concept place a 182.5cm / 88cm inseam squarely in a Size L. I know these charts can suck, but that much?!
- The already mentioned "when in doubt, size up" philosophy by Dan Empfield to get a more stable, less twitchy frame. (and headtube being more aero than spacers)


For the aerobars, I would probably choose "L", whatever the frame size - it's relatively short already, right?

Given the reduced adjustability in the cockpit, will my short torso stretch me like a cheese string on the size L? Has anyone with similar proportions ridden the TT-023? Particularly interested if anyone can comment on how the bike feels at the extremes of its fit window.

Currently, where I live, its almost impossible to get a bikefit - it would also be ~250$ to either get told "M" or "L".
Thanks!

13
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: September 28, 2025, 07:59:49 AM »
Quote from: Mokora on September 28, 2025, 07:53:47 AM
I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.

Here is my current understanding:

Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.

Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.

Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.

What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!

How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(


There are 6mm offset offerings (like this 46T from wolftooth https://r2-bike.com/WOLF-TOOTH-Kettenblatt-Aero-Road-Gravel-Direct-Mount-Drop-Stop-B-1-fach-SRAM-8-Loch-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gclid=CjwKCAjwuePGBhBZEiwAIGCVSy56LOV_-vM3OmIB50RSCZE-liIyYMc-dogZK5t-nait7jrRJrlUmxoCRE8QAvD_BwE)

But most AliX models are all either 3mm or 0mm.

14
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: September 28, 2025, 07:53:47 AM »
I am suffering - trying to understand the topic of optimal chainline / chainring Offset.

Here is my current understanding:

Mounting 50mm tyres to this frame, I will have to opt for a chainline of at least 47.5mm to clear the tyre, but getting any bigger the drivetrain becomes exponentially more inefficient.
So you really try to hit that sweet spot. Doing so with any AXS XPLR crankset is easy, taking either newer E1 wide / or older D1 wide and changing the 2x chainrings to any AXS or XPLR 1x model, because the offset is the same across those two groupset families - 6mm.

Now the confusing part: If I want to opt for any 3rd party cranks / aero chainring the standards get thrown around like crazy. Seemingly there are only either 45mm cranksets, or 49.7mm chainline cranksets - which is crazy wide, even for shimano grx. To combat, you could then put a 3mm offset chainring on those, making it an effective 46.7mm - close enough to clear 50mm tyres?
Downside being, you have to use plenty spacers on such a long spindle.

Even weirder are the offerings of Pass Quest, Senicx etc. to me, because they only offer 8bolt/3bolt chainrings with either 0mm or 3mm offset - which does not work on the "standard" dub wide cranks they were made for - because it shifts the chainline to either 50.5mm or even 53.5mm - MTB territory.

What am I getting wrong here?
A 46T/48T aero 1x chainring is clearly made for either gravel or road, so it should adhere to Srams 6mm standard offset. But no aftermarket product does?!

How do you Guys combat this? Am I getting my numbers wrong? Or are you just forever suffering from suboptimal chainline? :'(

15
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VB TT-023: Here comes a new build
« on: July 17, 2025, 07:07:39 AM »
Seems like no one considers LTWOO ER9 TT Version? Interested on why so many are confident on cheaper china frames, but stick with well established and more expensive groupsets? Has Chinertown made bad experiences with the new LTWOO Version? Or is there simply too little data on it?

Pages: [1]