Hey folks! I finally built my TT-023, thanks in large part to this amazing thread.

Nice build, you just commited a crime posting the build on the wrong side next time, gears up front

Does anybody have any recommendations for BTA setup on the stock basebar and risers? Trying to brainstorm how to mount in that single hole in the middle of the plate.

I added this aluminum extension from aliexpress, it fit one bottle and my garmin, one bolt means it may rotate, but after a lot of torque on the bolt, nothing is moving...

aliexpress.com/item/1005010081386112.html

3D printing alone is insufficient for these weights and mounting requirements..

Not entirely true. There are several materials that can significantly increase strength, multiple ways to print the parts, and you can always redesign them to be much more rigid and durable — this is especially important.

I’ve tested at least five different BTA solutions in PETG, and they worked decently. However, when I switched to Tritan HT, the performance improved considerably.
That said, exposing the parts to direct sunlight (for example, during a transition) will definitely hurt their longevity.

For an extra level of safety, you can coat the 3D printed part with resin — much like a carbon fiber + resin composite, but without the carbon. This usually turns the part into something extremely sturdy.

My Velobuild TT in size M is finished and rides incredibly well – it's lightning fast!

The color is exposed carbon with a glossy clear coat and custom decals (which Velobuild produced for an additional fee and applied under the clear coat).

TRP brakes (with SRAM Blips)
SRAM XPLR rear derailleur (54/10-36)
SRAM Rival E1 Powermeter
ELITE EDGE 2.0 (65mm)
12cm of Spacers

Custom-designed toolbox
AeroCovers on the spacers
BTA for the Velobuild handlebars
All parts are 3D printed.

Do you have the STL for those aerocovers for the spacers?

I recently upgraded my aero bar to the winnow hb052. But now I have the problem where the winnow handlebar are too low and to far for my liking which makes the handling worse.

I dlike to put back the original handlebar but keeping the aerobar themselves. But the spacing between the spacers is different which makes them incompatible.

I could also put the aerobar on the VB plate but then they are not angled and the plate is missing holes for front hydration system.

Anybody came up with a good solution? I saw a random video where the guy just flipped the winnow handlebars. Any success with this?

Thanks!

You can use the Winow bar upside down, so the brakes are higher. I did this, and it worked. Not sure about the looks, but there are TT bikes that use that layout (higher bars)

What's the logic here exactly?

Money...

If a product price is low enough, people will buy it, regardless if it works as intended...

The answer is pretty simple - it's a forum and we are here to discuss thing. If someone doesn't want to read our discussion about certain things, he should not post about it or even use a forum. Simple.

Perhaps I didn't use the right words. I don't have any problem with anyone here—especially not with debating things in this forum. That's exactly the purpose of being here, right?

Ten years ago, there was very little information about Chinese carbon frames. If it weren't for the early buyers who purchased them, tested them, figured out which ones were good and which were bad, and shared their experiences, we'd all still be in the dark, wouldn't we?

Today, the Chinese frame market is well established. Thanks in large part to this forum, we all have a pretty good idea of which manufacturers are reliable and which ones to avoid.

Now, drawing a parallel to Chinese power estimators: by now, it's widely accepted that most of them are inaccurate and unreliable (with exceptions like Magene and maybe Geoid). Point. That's it.

There are one or two isolated voices here claiming their unit is good and reliable, but they usually rely on non-rigorous tests, so I wouldn't put much stock in them.

But there's a key difference: a crappy frame could potentially fail catastrophically—leaving you with fewer teeth in your mouth, or worse.

My crappy power estimator, as far as I know, won't break, explode, or cause my bike to fail. The bike still works fine (it's not ok to compare it to a square wheel bike). I can ride normally, I simply ignore the inaccurate numbers if I want.

The weight and price of my power estimator is comparable to a regular spider adapter (piece of metal/carbon to mount my crank arm to my chainring). So I ordered the crappy power estimator, I'm using it, I'm fully aware I can't trust the readings, and I'm okay with that. That's the math I made.

I'm not sure there's a real need for more people to keep buying these, testing them, and coming here just to say the obvious 'it's crap.' But with the recent price drops, more and more people will probably get them anyway. Let's just hope they don't end up overtraining—or worse—because the power numbers were way off.