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Messages - MarioCanario

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1
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material.  So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings.  Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...
indeed looks like it could be one of the headset bearing seals.
I'd take the handlebar off and check the headset bearings if one of the seals is missing. if bearing is not sealed on one side it might not take long till the bearing is taking its toll (dirt, corrosion, wash out) 

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Microck replica tarmac sl8
« on: September 04, 2026, 02:57:42 AM »
see the other forum mentioned. i had email contact with em. it is for 20pcs ordered at once. all a bit shady.

3
Hi,
I haven't bought the frame yet, but I plan to install TRP Spyre SL calipers with a 160mm rotor in the front and a 140mm rotor in the rear. Do I need adapters? What size screws should I buy to install my calipers?
Thank you.

the caliper istallation guide is on the LC website and in the following post. bit of search required on your side

The LC web page is showing adapters being used for both front and rear brake caliper installations.

why install a mechanically actuated brake caliper on such a frame at all? such stuff is used on cheap triban bikes. no comparison to hydraulic braking. and running those hoses through the handlebar will prob leave u with reduced breaking performance

4
It's not worth it. At least AliExpress you get financial security, Paypal and credit card protection. Buying direct is just too shady without any buyer assurances.

Saying that, my Aethos knockoff is still running solid. It might be the best value bike in my small fleet.  ;)
agreed that it is not worth it.

big fan of your aethos build. it even looks slick. love that minimalism.

5
so, they responded to me regarding the "250$" SL7 frame. their was a bit of non conclusive one line èmail back & forth, but i sum it up:


me: One can currently not pay via paypal on your website.

"It can not pay in my website via paypal"

so i asked to quote me plus payment via paypal goods and services

"Hello Dear Buyer. Please go to do payment to our company bank account directly
And the cost price of  frame with handlebar is 580USD including dpd express with free duty tax.
Please make the payment via SEPA "

they provided a german IBAN named under "DongGuan City ShuoLian Sports Goods Co.,Ltd"

i asked: Why do you post on your website 250$ + 150$ for delivery?

"WEBSITE IS FOR MOQ order is 20pcs in one time. 
And you can go to order to my aliexpress for order 
MICROCK BIKES STORE."

not sure what to make of this, but aint wiring money to some account.

FiveStar GoodBike Store and MICROCK BIKES STORE seem to have the same offerings. but no idea if and how these are connected

6

-Kept the cleat shim on my right leg (leg discrepency)
-Removed my insole wedges from each shoe. (Originally due to foot pronation)


This topic is an interesting read (plus the blogs you recommended), as I’m constantly tinkering with my bike fit myself. ;D

I had one fit done by a “bike fitter” in the past, but that actually left me with more discomfort than before, so I eventually started to go about it myself.

In the past — due to quite a lot of BJJ and tennis — I also developed pretty bad patellar tendinitis on my left side. I saw a doctor and two physios about it. One said I had a ~1–1.5 cm shorter right leg. The other agreed that there was a discrepancy, but thought it was more likely caused by pelvic tilt rather than an actual difference in bone length. I stopped both sports, and with therapy the tendinitis eventually went away, so I never really followed up on it.

@patliean1:
How do you approach the whole cleat shim/wedge height topic? How do you determine how much shim height u actually need? trial and error?
And has your own leg-length discrepancy ever been measured conclusively?

I assume that a discrepancy originating in the femur would have a different impact on bike fit than one originating in the tibia. Is that correct, or am I overthinking this?



7
fortunatly i am not plagued by creaking often. but i like to repair and offer repair to others, so
i had a handful of fellow club riders bikes over that showed creaking. It has only once been the BB so far.


hit list:
  • cassette (too loose, broken, no grease used)
  • free hub
  • spokes (nipple)
  • seatpost
  • chainring bolts
  • thru axles
  • pedals
  • headset (too loose)

due to the stiffness carbon can act as a sound/vibration conductor. it is sometimes hard to determine the real source.
often it's something small, noone thought of

8
Did you guys try contacting Microck directly to ask if they can ship to your country?

i did inquire via email and their chatbot, since online payment via paypal is not working. no answer so far.
their website states, that DPD is used for european shipping. in my instance that is a good thing and i do not doubt receiving a frame, if sent this way.

we will see  8)

but as much as this 400$ thing is tempting, i will only pay via paypal in this instance. better safe than sorry

9
In the side profile picture, does anyone feel the riser bar looks weird?  maybe its a short stem one that makes it look very awkward

Also, for an aero frame the boxy downtube is off putting for me.

agreed. the HBR020 needs some stem length in order to look sort of good.

But this is a matter of taste. I've been to the TdF this year and stood next to Pogis Colnago Y1Rs for a while. That riser bar also doesn't arouse me much, when looked at from the side :-) the whole bike doesn't to be honest  ;D

LC posted this on facebook a while ago for eurobike. With regular handlebar. pic is probably AI made, but gives some idea what it looks like ready made.
i will probably use an HBR17 as the handlebar.

10
same here

11
I have been using them for 6 months now. No problems or complications since installation. I did notice, however, that it was very difficult to get a DUB crankset through. I have never had that with other crank and bottom bracket combinations.

indeed. super tight, thats why i needed the rubber hammer. but after 1 hit the BB sounded like a sack of nails

13
reagarding "Lightcarbon Standard Design". wendy informed that the red/white paint job is currently the one.

i also received some more pictures

14
tempted to try this SL7 thing for my son. but can't find anything on that SL7 frame. will be a 400$ gamble

propably without logo.

or i throw their "COUGAR" wheelset on top of the "MICROCK" frame lol  ;D ;D

15
Guys, need support, I try to install the Cema T47 bottom bracket that LightCarbon offers. I can’t get either cup to start threading by hand at all — it just keeps turning without engaging and falls straight back out. Cup on the drive side, counterclockwise. Cup with the center sleeve on the non-drive side, clockwise, correct? What could go wrong?

the CEMA BB has directional marks on all parts. hard to get it wrong unless you accidentally interchanged L and R. always gently screw it in by hand first.

I ordered the ceramic CEMA (thought i try ceramic once again). took me 2 aproached with this thing to get dub wide chain line spacing sort of right.
after a few km i wanted to try different crankset. but ceramics bearings didn't survive a really really mild hit with my rubber hammer onto the spindle  :o

anyone got long term experience with the CEMA ceramic bearing? can't believe it is that fragile

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