Quote from: massarob on September 24, 2026, 04:35:30 AMArrived and installed, I just need a better T47 BB as this is just to finish it.
So far my only concern is about headset preloading as, even without using it yet, it seems a little tricky to settle. I added also the 2 metal rings between the C ring and the 1st headset cover (as shown on their IG channel).
That's also the reason I did not put the "aero" stem cover yet but an above spacer and a top cap.
Hose routing was relatively easy, just the last hole on the handlebar/behind the levers is tightly angled.
The look is nice and aggressive, the weight is not bad even with relatively heavy wheels and Magene Pedals is 7.5 Kg in size 52.
On the same target price, I would have bought the new Cube Agree (€3300 with full Ultegra), but it was released just few days ago.

torque top cap at 4nm. Seems high but it solved loose headset issue I had. This is torque value from avenger manual

Just for input, the black and gold bike on a previous comment in this thread is mine. I am 185 cm, long legs. 80.5 saddle height. I have frame 56 , 2.5 cm spacers, 120 mm stem. In my opinion 90 mm would be very low and very short for my height

Quote from: Bonus79 on August 25, 2026, 02:58:51 AM
So basically, if the head tube notch is 2.5 cm, the gain in handlebar height compared to a traditional stem on a frame without a head tube notch is 10mm....is that right?

I am not sure exactly what you mean. I think first, it is easier to just substract 2.5 cm to the geometry chart advertised stack. Stem/handlebar vertical stack is an independant matter regardless of the frame geometry.
So to keep things simple, I separate the frame geometry from the cockpit setup.

A standard stem has a 40 mm clamp height, but with a 125 mm / -9° setup, the downward angle drops the effective rise (measured from the top of the handlebar where your hands rest) so it acts more like a 20 mm stack above the spacers.

The Avenger Y-bar has a lower 25 mm clamp height, but its positive rise pushes the total height up to 55 mm (top of handlebar, where your hands rest).

My Winspace T1550 gen 2(size large) had a 560 mm stack +40 mm spacers + 125 mm stem at -9 (20 mm vertical rise) =620 mm at top of handlebar. Same fit would be Avenger size 56 ( 565 mm stack according to the chart, but in reality it is 540 mm due to the notch) + 25 mm spacers + 120 mm stem(55 mm vertical rise)=620 mm at top of handlebar. Both gives me the same effective stack at top of handlebars. I ignore headtube angle because difference are marginal and it simplifies explanation.

Did you solve your problem long term? I have same issue. Avenger torque spec says 4 nm top cap not 8nm. Anyhow can seem to find a solution yet. It seems fine in the workshop but headset loosen during ride.

Quote from: Mariuszuzd on August 18, 2026, 05:57:50 AM
Okay, so my build is finished. Just quick update from my perspective. I build the bike myself, like the others and previous Avenger Shuttle SL. I'm having Tagoola Pulse 50UL and 1x12 SRAM AXS with Force shifters and the rest is RED. As I will probably use XMCS crank, I bought the tripeak 3 in 1 BB. In general, i had no issues with cables, or with BB or screws, or honestly with any element of the frameset. Assembling was pretty easy and fast, I did all based on the R8-RS user manual. Only one elements is missing in the user manual, the screws and elements that holds the upper bearing or I haven't seen it. The routing with the Y bar was a pleasure and there is only one way of going thru. Those two pieces are very easy to connect. Top cap is pretty funny and with unusual shape. I'm wondering if 4 Nm and enough for handlebar and fixing screws. I will check and verify that on the ride today. I didn't encountered any issue with the headset play. I used 4 Nm for the top cap as adviced. No information what should be the tightening power for the handlebar and stem. Seatpost and clamp the same, no issue, Nm as in the manual. I didn't cut the seatpost. For the axles a used 10 Nm at the moment. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 of them, not looks very bad, of course without any of them is the best. However, as I mentioned previously, after calculation I have the same level as on my shuttle. For me the comfort is the most important, I will survive how it looks.

I will prepare some reel and post on my instagram of course.

For now the weight is less than 7 kg in size 58, with pedals, bottle cages, garmin and varia mount.

Hi Marius, did you try the bike? Loose headset happens after a big ride with torque/sprints, did you try that?

Quote from: Pehem on July 09, 2026, 10:22:56 AM
Frame received a few weeks ago. Built with Dura Ace and Campagnolo Bora Ultra 60 wheelset for a total weight of 7,12 kg. The bike is insanely fast (coming from a 2009 Cube and a 2014 sub-6 kg Focus Izalco Max 0.0). Stack is indeed very low, I almost wanted to ask for more spacers but ended up with just the standard 6x5mm spacers. It's an aero bike after all and that would have been not really nice aesthetically. I actually feel very good on the bike now, quite comfortable. I had some issues with some screws and engaging the thread in the nuts (used a tap to clean the threads). Another issue is that I have to apply a lot of torque on the headset to remove any play (there is enough space between expander and top plate and bearings are not compressed at all). I'm guessing it's because there is a lot of friction between the fork and stem. Headset fine tuning was not easy, but maybe I'm just bad. Really happy with the frame regardless.

What did you do to solve issue? You overtighten the top cap or the stem bolts? I have same issue. Thanks

Thanks! I emailed them what i wanted. Cost a extra 150 Usd.
Piano black gloss and brushed gold decals.

So here is the finish build.  For people wondering, the absolute vertical stack from base of stem to top of handlebar of 120mm Y stem is around 5.5cm
(Compared to 2 cm vertical stack for  -9 angle 125mm stem).
Also, the head tube notch is 2.5 cm and i think it is same for all frame size since it is same than the stem clamp area height.
Finally, here is a photo.
Final build 7.3 kg without pedals and bottle cage. Size 56.
Yoeleo 50/60 nxt wheels, wheeltop carbon crankset, wheeltop eds tx.

Hi yall,
so I had headset play for 1 year. Tryed little 0.25 mm C-shims  as suggested here and also tryed better and longer expander plug (DEDA) without any success. I decided to buy  a different Compression C-ring  on aliexpress(see picture). Now it works perfectly. I chose the 7.3 mm but maybe the 6.3 mm could have been ok too. Just dont use the C-ring provided with the frame. Chris from Velobuild discarded the issue saying the issue with previous frame was solved few years ago despite many people on this forum with similar issue. I can confirm the new C-ring provided by velobuild with this frameset is not really better. Too stiff maybe.

Anyhow, problem solved and can finally ride the bike!

Just received my black and gold frameset. Anyone know what is this little screw hole  at the headset areafor? Thanks!

Quote from: 78Staff on May 10, 2026, 10:07:57 AM
Have a bit of time on the TX setup now. overall it's... acceptable, I guess.  I mean, it works.  It has some annoyances though.  Minor leaking on both caliper pistons as previously reported.  I'm sure WT would replace them, but I don't feel like pulling them off and waiting a couple weeks if I am being honest (the whole "send it in then we will ship the replacement") is a big turnoff.  Levers rattle a bit at times, as others have noted.  Rear bleed port is in an awkward spot, imo - hard to get fittings aligned when installing or bleeded, etc.

I constantly fight the ch-ch-ch when shifting.  New (when TX installed) Ultegra cassette, new DuraAce/XT 12sp waxed chain.  It's a bit maddening, because it doesn't happen every time, but more often than not.  Adjusting it out is almost impossible, or at least to me it is - since it doesn't occur on every shift.  So you think you might have it adjusted out, then it starts happening again.  I've checked the hanger alignment, played with all kinds of B-screw clearances, reset initial setting and of course played with manual tuning to my wits end.  When I get it as good as I can get it, I will still have some chatter in the middle of the cassette.  It's truly maddening, tbh.  Enough so that combined with the leakly pistons and rattling levers, I am considering just upgrading to DI2.  Could repurpose this kit on my Gravel bike, or just sell it outright I suppose.

Maybe I should try that goldix cassette first, though.  Just odd that higher end Ultegra cassette would be the issue.  TBH I never heard of Goldix before the above poster mentioned it.

OH - Also Cade Media/Wild Things just did a test/review on the Rotor-branded Wheeltop kit, and thoroughly trashed it.  Many of the issues they dealt with are common issues discussed here and on FB groups, so in reality it just appears they stuck the Rotor name on the TZ group with some minor aesthetic changes...  Having trouble posting the link, just search Cade Media on youtube it will be one of the recent vids...

Which caliper you use? There are 3 wheeltop models..thanks

Hello, looking to buy wheeltop eds tx, i have ultegra di2 right now. I would like to know if someone can measure and compare the shifter/hood reach between wheeltop and shimano as i am trying to know if I need to change stem lenght to keep same reaxh. Thanks

Quote from: nick82 on April 21, 2026, 01:09:27 PM
i have noticed there is quite a lot of play in the fd when its on the lower chainring, is anyone elses like that? on the outer the cage is solid but on the inner position you can wiggle it around and worse even at its most inner position there is a tiny bit of chain rub on the 2 largest sprockets but you can manually move the cage in by pressing it enough to remove any rub

Yup same issue here. Did not solve the problem yet. I will swap for a grx with wider chainline to cheat this... Some peole on forum also noted that issue. No idea why other people sont face this issue though

Quote from: Unknownftp on November 26, 2025, 01:00:25 PM
Getting some creaking from mine, its overall compressed but I can feel it moving ever so slightly when I really torque it. No solution as of yet.

I had same issue. I think issue is that the expander plug slips and lifts when torquing the top cap. I grease the bolt of the expander and torqued and made sure the expander didnt create a gap with the top of steerer and it seems to help. I also tryed a 0.25 mm shim which seems to help also but kept displacing.

Hi, recently? i seem to have most recent app and firmware.