Thanks but that looks like it's for the road version, my derailleur has a long cage. It's also cheaper than just this cage, so I could get a full derailleur instead 😬

L-Twoo TX shifting was a bad choice tough but i'll write something about that in another post once i find out why its sucks so much.

Not to go off topic but I put LTWOO T9 on my bike and am extremely happy with it. It feels even better than my Shimano GRX 810 on my gravel bike, although it is a bit difficult to compare drop bar groupsets to mtb groupsets.

Thanks a lot for your research! In a way, it would be a bit of a silver lining for these to be bad due to an engineering issue and not production issues.

If I had the money or need to replace my gravel bike's frame, I'd be going with a Lightcarbon frame. Maybe this one: https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-new-gravel-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p170.html

I don't think that IIIPro believes they have any problems or issues with the E4s.   I complained to them once and they weren't very helpful at the time.

I am beginning to believe that there is some problem with the E4 levers that somehow develops a void or air somewhere in the lever hydraulics.   Could be caused by "improper" bleeding, or lack of technique by me.   Who knows.   I haven't seen many complaints about the E4s other than me.

I am also beginning to form an opinion that for some reason on my bikes with rear brake internal hose routing, I am unable to get all of the air bubbles out of the system and this come back to haunt me later.   Seems like when I bleed the brake off the bike such that I can freely move the lever assembly and calipers in all sorts of directions, I am able to get all the bubbles out.

The new R2X4 and R3X4 have different levers and seemingly the same calipers. I can't seem to find information on whether I can use BH90 brake hose, compression nuts, olives for them. They are advertising a reusable no olive system, but I am sure that will leak, I don't trust it.

Have you tried bleeding with the lever at a 45 degree angle? I know some brakes have to be angled rather than level, I can see how at certain angles air wouldn't be able to escape. But I don't understand how that air could suddenly pop up in the system, must be a really poorly designed master cylinder.

I have the 6 pawls system, not the 36T ratchet. And each pawl has three engagement points, so it's quite loud.

I know of Onyx hubs, but those are worth more than my entire wheelset for a single rear hub.

Hey, all

I'd like to get into wheel building. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with it and what tools I would possibly need

I already have a nipple tool and nipple wrench (I think they cover all types of spoke nipples together)
I also have a spoke tension checker, but it's one of those really simple ones, not very precise

I was thinking that I'd at least need a truing stand, but would it be better to also get a good tensiometer or dish checking tool?

Thanks, all. I ended up going with a tanke 120mm fork, it hasn't arrived yet.

I'll be riding it hard but probably not too often, I much prefer my gravel bike. As for saving and getting better gear, I don't really feel the need, there's always better things to splurge on (like our mortgage)