Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Hoogie

Pages: [1]
1
My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?

I had the same, caliper leaning right (looking from behind) when tightening beyond 2-3nm to the suggested 5nm (so last bit of tightening). I fixed it myself, but probably not the recommended way.
I checked with a (aluminium, straght) ruler, took a hobby knife and very carefully shaved off (really lightly shave, make sure to keep the knife flat, no hard cuts!) the paint/clear coat overspray layer by layer, checking with the caliper in between shaves to see improvement. I only did it myself because it was very obvious where the high spots where (you could see the paint on the brake mount after tightening), so I had a very good idea of where to shave off bits.
Took me 2-3 hours but now it's straight enough that I can tighten without it rubbing.

While this worked, if I had known an address near me that does facing, would probably have gone there  :-X

2
I am building the bike up with a Force E1 2by setup. BB is a Rotor T4729 internal. Now I am struggling with the spacers. Sram Website says 3mm on the drivetrain side. Following these sram instructions there is a space so that the crank can move. The BB manual says 3.5mm on the none drivetrain side and 6mm on the drive train side. Following these rotor instructions it doesn’t seem to fit either.

Anyone any ideas? Trial an error? Something like 1.5mm NDS and 4mm DS should work…

Thanks for your help.

I used the 3mm spacer on the drive side. Which gave me enough adjustment room on the non-drive side with the adjustment ring thing (not sure what the official name is) to set the correct preload.

I used the standard SRAM T47 bottom bracket. So not the same as your rotor. But since T47 85.5 should be the same. I think 3 or 3.5 should both work fine. Just try and see what fits best.

3
Having such a hard time deciding on colour.

First I wanted the chameleon 7207 but after seeing photos, it looks just white, hard to see the chameleon effect. Next i considered chameleon 07HS. I see different example photos in different lighting and love the burgundy look, but other photos it looks very dark and just black.

After seeing Hoogie's yellow Velar that inspired me to consider a yellow mango colour.

Or maybe a british racing green would look great  ;D

It's a difficult decision... if anyone has more examples of colours i listed feel free to share! would be greatly appreciated

For completeness, mine was Pantone 109C.
I'll attach the color samples I got from Jim here. Because I was torn between Yellow C, 109 C and 123 C.

With the `Yellow C` I was afraid it would wash out in the sun, leaving almost no yellow when in bright sunlight. I found the `123 C` a bit too orange/gold in my opinion. So ultimately went for the 109 C.

4
My Build: Velar RF2.18
Frame: LCR018-D (Size 56)
Groupset: SRAM Force E1 2x12 (Integrated Spider PM)
Wheelset: Elitewheels Aero+ (42mm Front / 53mm Rear) with ceramic bearings
Weight: 7.75kg (dry)

Coming from an old aluminium 2013 Cube Peloton Pro, the jump to this build has been a total shock to me, I could not believe the feeling when I first left home. I spent years on that aluminum frame with its external cables and rim brakes, and while it served me well, the "Velar" feels like it’s from a different planet. It’s essentially a rocket ship compared to the old bike, I should have upgraded much sooner.

On my first 50k ride last weekend, the biggest thing I noticed was how every pedal stroke feels "live"—where the Cube felt a bit sluggish or flexy when I put the power down, this LCR018 frame just snaps forward. Leaving home the first time on this, I’ve truly felt the "free speed" compared to the old frame, the difference really is night and day.

My color choice was bold (and I have to admit, nerve wrecking), but I'm absolutely loving it now I've got it here, can't help but smile everytime I walk past it in the garage. The Yellow/Black is a very strong combo in my opinion.

5
For those who have built up a 2x drive train - did your frame come with a FD mounting bolt? I didn't get one with my frame or my Rival E1 front derailleur. Maybe I missed it somewhere.

My Force E1 front derailleur came with that bolt if I recall correctly.

6
I received my frame yesterday and started building. Loving it so far, although it's my very first build.
Luckily have a friend to help me out.

Size 56, painted frame out of the box was 1168 grams.
Fork was 469 grams
Seatpost 188 grams

Sneak peak of my frame color included.


7
I started building my build for real, everything looks good and goes pretty smoothly. Only thing that I really don't like is the serrated spacer for saddle clamp bolt, I thing everything serrated against carbon is not good idea, maybe for the fist time your torque that bolt it is holding good but everything your need adjust saddle angle I think it would be pain.
As I have access to CNC machine I went and made my own smooth spacers and I think it works much better, with serrated once when I tighten them to just snug 3nm I was still able to move saddle with my hand, with those smooth one when I tighten them to 3nm saddle is rock solid.

Did you guys who is using bike have any problem with saddle angle slipping and did you use carbon paste between carbon and aluminium surfaces of seatpost?

I sent this to LightCarbon as my suggestion to improvement so maybe they will alter their design.

Otherwise so far bike looks pretty awesome.

Could you share that design?
I might just have that made by JLCPCB or another chinese manufacturer.

Should get my frame today  :)

8
Ack. I bought SRAM. I’ll get some adapters then. Sorry for the confusion, so I need adapters for both the front and back? Or just the rear?

According to the drawings in the catalog, the front is a 160mm mount and the back a 140mm.
See the image, specific measurements marked in green.

9
This link is for the frame colors:
"Below link are our optional color codes for your selection(color codes must be the ones listed on our website):
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43"

The pantone list is only for the decals: "Optional logo color codes : https://www.pantone-colours.com/"

Both links were sent to me by Wendy.


The colors you can choose from are indeed very limited. That is why I went for the Eurobike paint design and changed all the gold to dark grey. I asked if the marble effect good also be made with a white pearl base color but that was not possible.

Interesting, my bike was painted in Pantone 109C (Yellow) with black decals... So there might have been a change in color policy then since early september when I ordered.
I even got a picture of 2 color examples before deciding (see picture). Jim has not indicated that all pantone colors are available, but the 109 is not on the page you mentioned (although 109 is very close to Yellow C).

10
Thanks for the information about the bearings. I don't want the hassle of changing the headset bearing after such a short period of time, and would like to fit a good one from the start. Does anyone have the specifications/size of the bearing?

Someone earlier quoted it was the MH-P16. Can't confirm yet as my (56) frame will be shipped on monday.

Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16.

Pages: [1]