I've taken the bike for a couple of shortish rides.  The only issues I have with the frame are the headset coming loose, despite proper pre-loading/torquing.  I am pretty sure this is down to the 'C' shaped compression ring, which is not great and I have asked SPCycle for a full 'O' replacement as my build is semi-internal.  They frame itself is great!
I've changed all the bolts (already rusted) for nylon or 4x ti for the bottle cages and saved 48gr for about £3.
The clearance on the frame is enormous, my Panaracer GKSK43s look tiny, it'll fit massive mudguards easily.  Currently toe overlap is zero issue, may be slightly with mudguards to boot.
Have to say, I love the bike and for £1500 all in I think it is splendid.

Reiko1, did you have any luck with the headset part replacement?  I'm having the worst time with my headset as well, on the CWind GT30, the same frame.  I had to buy a new headset cap bolt because the one they sent didn't even take an Allen wrench but I have tightened it so much that it affects steering and I still have play.

It's the open mould version of an Ari Shafer.

Bikeinsights confirms that their geometries match exactly, if you compare the Fezzari Shafer from 2021.  It seems that like all gravel frames, the newer model of Ari Shafer is far less upright.  It seems these open moulds are the only modern options for upright gravel frames, at least for people under 1.8m.  Some newer frames have stack/reach ratios over 1.5:1 only in the larger frame sizes.

Would you happen to know what the CWind GT30 (SPcycle G058)  is an open mould version of?

Thanks for this video.  I just spent several months loving my TPU tubes.  I was forced to fit a pair of Vittoria Terreno Dry tires to my new Elite rims.  The Michelins I'd bought for them were not even close to fitting the new rims. I'd given up on the Vittorias over a year ago after I installed one and got 7 flats in 200km (with butyl tubes) but I was left with no other option so I put them on the new rims with TPU tubes this time.  I rode 2000km without a problem and wondered whether TPU was the secret to transforming the Vittorias from garbage to gold.

I suddenly ended up with 3 flats in one weekend.  Each of the TPU tubes that has lasted 2000km went flat, but with the same tire, since the second puncture happened after I swapped front and back and the new tube went onto the back wheel with the less worn tire that had been on the front.  With the first tube that failed, no problem.  I quickly found the leak when I submerged it in water.  The second one then got a slow leak and I had to swap it out on the road and by the next morning the new tube had gone flat too.  The second and third ones, though, showed me no bubbles when submerged.

Watching the video, I see I'm not the only one who has found that detecting the leak in a TPU tube is very tricky.  I finally did with the other two tubes but they are so slow an tiny.  The other thing I liked about the video is that Reginald does the same thing with the indelible marker.  I find that to be a slight advantage over butyl since the bright colours of TPU allow you to see a marking where black butyl would not.  I still haven't tried patching yet.

One question I have for the OP is why you would say that TPU is cheaper than butyl.  I'm finding they can be similar only if I buy Gustavo from AliExpress.  Any other brands or sources and I'm looking at far more money than I'd spend on butyl.  Is this only because I'm comparing gravel tubes?

That's unfortunate.  I have the CWind version of the same frame and the paint job is exactly as it was on the website.  I saw that SPCycle one too and thought that pattern you chose looked a little bizarre.  What they showed on the website is certainly preferable to what they sent you, though.