Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Nikh

Pages: [1] 2
1
I'm 183cm, just 82cm inseam and have chosen 520. I use it as a roadbike andcweren't sure about 52 or 54.
So I tried a few bikes before. Specialized SL8 in 54 was my favorite, but too low. LCR018-D in 52mm is 15mm higher (7mm+8mm risebar)
I would've been able to get in my position on both bikes. But on size LCR 54 I wouldn't have any spacer left and i would have chosen a shorter stemlength.

Blue SL8
Red 52
Yellow 54

2
Mine developed a horrific creak - turns out that one of the chainring bolts had snapped, think they are extremely soft.

Replace and retorque the bolt and see if that improves things?

Default for creaks is complete dissassembly and light touch of grease everywhere that parts meet, tends to be the cheapest and most successful outcome, even if it sometimes leaves me not knowing which bit was creaking!

same here, the creaking is crazy. I already replaced the chainring-Screws, cleaned everything and greased it. No changes.
I am pretty sure it is because of the size difference between the mount and the spider.
and imo the creaking comes either from
lockring and spider is "rubbing" or
spider and mount is "rubbing".
tried 2 different type of grease already.
I would say it is a little quieter than before, but tbh i'm slowly going crazy.
So it could be imagination.

btw: Geoid PM500 seems to have the same issue.


3
Did anybode found a solution against the creaking?
Reassenbled, greased etc several Times without real Changes..

4
Hello!

I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.

This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?

Thank you

Spacer came with Magene crankset. (And i had to use it, because of the space between spiderpm and frame and because of the length of the Pipe, which goes through the BB.)

5
Take a look onto the backside of the storage door. The tiny screw can get tightened. I did it before my First Ride and had no losening or rattling issues.

Good luck

6
Nice! Which size (ml) are the bottles?

750ml,
Getting the rear bottle back into the cage is a bit complicated while driving, as the cages are relatively tight.
A smaller bottle would be easier, i guess.


7
Hi,

here ist my build
Size 52 with chameleon painting
Shimano 105,
 magene p515 with Stone Chainrings in front, ztto cassette
Tagoola wheels

Build was smooth, made already a few km on the roll with it and now the First rides outside.
No issues with the seatclamp (with 8Nm)

Only issue with the Back wheel is that the sound of the freehub isn't steady.
Will wait a few km If the grease will so its Job. Otherwise i will grease it again.

Feels fast and comfortable to me👍

8
Yeah, I think the stiffness difference is one of those things that might be measurable, but not something that we would really notice in the real world. I have a gravel frame coming with internal storage and I'm not worried about it at all. Most of us guys are visual creatures, right? The enjoyment of seeing my bike without a saddle bag is going to outweigh any imperceptible loss of stiffness.

I was more concerned about the durability of the lid than the frame itself. If the lid breaks then it could be a pain to get a replacement, especially years later from now.
In Case of no Spare Parts and loss of the part, no repairing possible: I am pretty sure, 3D-Printing and AI will get easier and accessable enough to create a new one. But keep an eye on it for a few years 😄

Furthermore i am sure that "the enjoyment of seeing" increases Placeboeffects for Speed 😄
A saddle bag will influence aerodynamics more than a storage bag.
Fortunately it isnt that easy to measure aero gains compared to weight.


9
Hello everyone.

I'm planning to order a frame and I'm unsure about the internal storage. I have seen in previous posts that the frame is obviously less stiff, but... Do you appreciate something when riding the bike? I will use the bike to race in some triathlons (short distance) so I'm in doubt about purchasing the frame with or without internal storage. Any recommendations?

I am storing tubes, tire levers and a multitool in the storage bag. Having this i don't need the saddle bag anymore.
IMO it looks better and cleaner - i would always opt for it.
Triathlon will have no Sprint in the Bike - the less stiffness should affect less than in crits.
Beside this: Most of the km will be Training and not in a competition.

10
I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58.  I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out.  Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)

I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.

That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good.  The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach.  The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.

So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option.  Open to hearing opinions.

I have 82 inseam at 183cm height.
And I decided to go with size 52 (instead 54)

I wonder, if your drop could be negative at 58.


11
Hi,

thank you for your estimation, that reassures.
I have checked the forks of my other bikes and couldn't find any similar characteristics.
I ruled out overlapping because it's curved / not straight, but I could be wrong here.

it might be too careful, but especially a breaking fork is my personal nightmare.
But I got no experience with frames from CN directly.

12
The Scratch and those dots can bei fehlt with the fingernail.

The Scratch could bei a crack too, but i dont think so. I will check this with a camera.
What do you think about?


13
Hi all,
I received my frame end of last year and now had to claim a quality issue.
My fork has a deep scratch in the beginning of the tube and a lot of "dots" of missing material along the tube of the fork.
Anybody else got issues like this?

Everything else went perfect, painting is great, packaging was good etc.

Looking forward how lightcarbon will proceed.

for all, who are waiting:
Size 52
Ordered end of 10/25
adress confirmation on 04th Dec.
received 30th Dec.

14
Thanks for your response man!

The only thing that has me worried is that the seatpost is 400MM long and only has 200MM which can be used. This is what i can find online.

I have the same height as you around 810-815MM. Do you own the bike and are riding with this set up ?

Thanks!!
Wondering If Here Things are gettin Mixed Up:
Seat tube insert is max. 200.
Seatpost is 400mm

Means: seat tube + (400mm Seatpost - Minimum insert 100mm= 300mm)
If seattube is 530:
530+300=830mm (+height of the saddle, ~40mm= 870mm)

Recommend es to Insert at least 120mm -> 810mm + Saddle height

15
1. Go to https://www.bikegeocalc.com
2. Input your current bike geometry + your bike fit measurements + components
3. Input LCR018 geometry
4. Compare and find the differences

Hard to help with so little information. Seat tube and head tube angles play a big role.

"The length of seatpost is 400mm,The minimum insertion depth is 100mm, and we recommend a depth of 120mm or more." Was Jims answer in my requests of size ,52. So there is a longer Version. But ask in your own to make everything Sure

Pages: [1] 2