Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Did you try this?
Looks like a great gift for my birthday from my partner 

I build bikes for a team and various clients. It’s an easy way to get a base line or confirm changes for those who aren’t sure what size etc.

They have a free version which is pretty basic but far better than the general guessing I see going on repeatedly on this thread.

I have no clue why so many people on here put so little effort into choosing the correct frame size. It’s lazy.
The whole hight and inseam measurements are just bullshit for finding the correct size frame.

[Nikh]

I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58.  I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out.  Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)

I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.

That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good.  The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach.  The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.

So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option.  Open to hearing opinions.

I have 82 inseam at 183cm height.
And I decided to go with size 52 (instead 54)

I wonder, if your drop could be negative at 58.

[triglav]

My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?

[Bender87]

I build bikes for a team and various clients. It’s an easy way to get a base line or confirm changes for those who aren’t sure what size etc.

They have a free version which is pretty basic but far better than the general guessing I see going on repeatedly on this thread.

I have no clue why so many people on here put so little effort into choosing the correct frame size. It’s lazy.
The whole hight and inseam measurements are just bullshit for finding the correct size frame.

I agree and thanks for the info.

My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?

Did you checked of there is some clear coat on the mounting point? I had some on them and used a file and sandpaper to make it even and clean.

[Grailstore]

So, I'm finally done 😄

And yes, I've gone in a completely different direction than everyone else I've seen so far 😉

-LightCarbon LCR-018 frame, size 50, raw carbon matte finish
-LightCarbon HBR17 handlebars, 380/90mm
-XMCS 50/36/28 wheelset with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and In-House hubs
-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant
-SRAM Rival XPLR derailleur, brakes, grips, cassette, and chain
-SRAM bottom bracket DUB Wide T47 / 85.5
-SRAM Red Dub Wide crankset, 165mm, with Raketa Components 46t chainring
-Chaser Ultra Light brake rotors, 160mm/140mm, with Absolute Black Center Lock rings
-Ryet Ultimate Carbon saddle
-Wolf Tooth LoneWolf Aero Chainguide from Rose BACKROAD FF
-Wolf Tooth del Gravel Pedals
-Elite Leggero Carbon Bottle Cage
-SYNCROS Handlebar Tape RC Dark Grey

The bike weighs 7.83 kg as pictured, complete with pedals, bottle cages, and tubeless sealant 😎

I’d like to order this frame as well. Could you also tell me what your saddle height is? I’m trying to decide between a size 50 or 52 too, and I’m trying to understand how much seatpost would be exposed. My saddle height is around 70–71 cm.
Did you put a 40 mm tire in the rear because a 45 mm doesn’t fit?
I’m also trying to figure out which gravel wheels currently offer the best value for money, with an internal rim width of at least 24 mm — someone does have any wheel recommendations?

[radrick_91]

I also (finally) finished my build this week and am happy with the process and result. Thanks to the community for the helpful tips (including the 3D-printed Varia mount).

For reference, I am 187 cm tall and chose the 56 frame with 120 mm/36 mm. I still need to fine-tune the position a little.

I chose the frame in gloss raw carbon (with my own deals) and a ceramic coating finish. Other special details include a Bikone bottom bracket and SLT headset (I installed the spacer). Paired with ZEN Wheels, Sram Rival XPLR, and a Rotor crank with a Power2max PM. I want to use the bike as a commuter and winter all-rounder. The first few kilometers will show how it performs in this usage area.

I look forward to your feedback.

[Kbfore]

So, I'm finally done 😄


-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant

I thought it was a 38mm tire clearance? You fit 45?

[kjerts]

https://youtu.be/5W_HZAQXAoQ?si=rB_v2coY9ONr58jl

This is with mounting paste applied but not tightened. I’m not sure I’m comfortable with the message from Jim to tighten to 10nm to hold this in place. The clamping mechanism is not meant to hold the seat post in place in all axis, is it? Just to hold the position up and down..

[chubv]

... a Rotor crank ...

Can you please post a link of the crank you have installed.

[Bike.Man]

I thought it was a 38mm tire clearance? You fit 45?

The front tire fits 45mm without tread, and the rear 40mm.
I had Schwalbe R Pro 45 and 40mm tires mounted for testing and have now replaced them with Schwalbe RS Pro in 35mm and 40mm.
The 35mm tire is actually about 38mm wide on my frame, and the 40mm is 41.5mm wide, which provides a bit more clearance.

[Bike.Man]

I’d like to order this frame as well. Could you also tell me what your saddle height is? I’m trying to decide between a size 50 or 52 too, and I’m trying to understand how much seatpost would be exposed. My saddle height is around 70–71 cm.
Did you put a 40 mm tire in the rear because a 45 mm doesn’t fit?
I’m also trying to figure out which gravel wheels currently offer the best value for money, with an internal rim width of at least 24 mm — someone does have any wheel recommendations?

My saddle height is 69cm, as shown in the photo, and I had to shorten the seatpost to accommodate it.
A 45mm tire fits in the front (without tread) and a 40mm in the rear. I initially tried Schwalbe R Pro tires in sizes 45 and 40mm, but have now switched to Schwalbe RS Pro tires in 35mm and 40mm. The 35mm tire measures approximately 38mm in real-world use, and the 40mm tire measures 41.5mm, which provides a bit more clearance in the frame.

[Hoogie]

My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?

I had the same, caliper leaning right (looking from behind) when tightening beyond 2-3nm to the suggested 5nm (so last bit of tightening). I fixed it myself, but probably not the recommended way.
I checked with a (aluminium, straght) ruler, took a hobby knife and very carefully shaved off (really lightly shave, make sure to keep the knife flat, no hard cuts!) the paint/clear coat overspray layer by layer, checking with the caliper in between shaves to see improvement. I only did it myself because it was very obvious where the high spots where (you could see the paint on the brake mount after tightening), so I had a very good idea of where to shave off bits.
Took me 2-3 hours but now it's straight enough that I can tighten without it rubbing.

While this worked, if I had known an address near me that does facing, would probably have gone there 

[sOKRATEs100]

Can someone tell me why this tool doesn't fit?

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004922574786.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.decb1802BhaJCX&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

in combination with

https://www.bike24.com/p2388529.html ?

Isn't T47 = T47?

 

And will I need to use the 3mm spacer for a none-wide SRAM RED crank on this frame? If yes, where? Drive-side or non-drive-side?

Update: Ahh, just saw it here: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf    I have to use it as "Outer right, drive side spacer".

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Can someone tell me why this tool doesn't fit?

Isn't T47 = T47?

T47 isn’t a standard. There are different diameters and spline combinations depending on the brand.

Google for what’s compatible with your SRAM DUB T47. I personally use a Park Tool BBT-47-16.

[radrick_91]

Can you please post a link of the crank you have installed.

I chose this crank, but mainly because I wanted to continue using the power meter.

With the offset axle, the chainline matches the Sram XPLR.

https://rotorbike.com/ge-de/ns24-shimano-grx-compatible-crankset.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19559025750&gbraid=0AAAAApEuGda43zgCQmjH9M_E4Hf9ageJr&gclid=CjwKCAiA-sXMBhAOEiwAGGw6LNB08Ff3HTbKA9Q_LlqK6HWx4BIUXcC5FCa5zVkyXDteNfpUqYTsChoCUAUQAvD_BwE