Hello all.
Starting this thread because I find it very difficult to find information on wheel building, especially with straight pull spokes, and practically nothing building with carbon spokes. A lot of people have built bikes from parts. Having never even owned a bicycle of any kind I build up a lightcarbon lcg071. I am a pharmacist, so have practically no mechanical skills or experience, but I found it easy enough. Very fiddly, very frustrating, and it took ages, maybe 4 full days between everything. However it was very rewarding, as I'm sure people on this forum can appreciate, and now I could literally fix anything/replace anything on my bike myself.
With this in mind, I am wondering why people don't seem to build wheels. I have a broken spoke, which I'm off to fix now after waiting an age for the supplier to replace, I'll let you know how I got on.
I feel like it's something that with some patience and practice is quite easily achievable to the type of people who build a bike, or is this naive? Any body have any resources to get started?

Bought this too
Unscrewd the screw where the hose hose is inserted in the rear brake but cannot remove it from the brake : do you know if I had to pull it with something ?

I've never had to actually do it. I'm half way through a lightcarbon build, but waiting on a replacement fork from them.
As far as I know the olive is just crushed by the screw you've undone. It's possible the olive is just crushed a bit into the housing and is a bit tight, , but there's nothing actually holding it there. It should just pull out. That and the friction of the o ring on the barb.
Others feel free to correct me, but undo the nut all the way so it's able to come free totally and slide along the hose, then pull it out.

Hey Fellows,

I've finally managed to install my purchased ERX groupset.
I bled the brakes as described in the instructions. Everything's fine on the right brake lever. The left brake lever looks like it's leaking out from the upper locking bolt on lever. You can see the mineral oil seeping out.
Additionally, the pin/piston in the brake lever (I think it is called master cylinder) is making a smacking noise (this isn't the case with the right brake lever) - see video attached.
Do you guys have any similar experience and/or way of explaining how, or if it's even possible to repair it?

If it is not repairable, are the shiftet / levers of the ERX interchangeable with ER9 or ER7 versions and where to get this as separate spare parts?


Thanks for your help in advance.

Nice bike. What is it?
I would ask panda podium about buying a erx shifter.
If it's leaking out of the box after the install though I'd get on to whomever you bought it from. If you're happy you've done everything correctly, which you seem to have done on the other side maybe it's a defect.

More ltwoo erx V3 front derailleur issues: I have chain rub on the front derailleur when in the small chainring and in gears 1- 3/4. Like other people it's as if the derailleur won't move inboard enough.
I have a few questions, and if anyone can help with any of them I'd be very grateful.
Firstly, does anyone know how to reset the derailleur? I would like it to return to a neutral position and try again to fine tune it. Apart from the rubbing issue, the half gear trim actually changes gear, so it's definitely a bit out of whack.
Secondly, I bought some crank spacers to take up a bit of slack in the crank. A 2mm spacer was a bit tight and was stopping the crank arms spinning totally free so I only have 1mm and the washer, 1.1mm total in it. I'm going to buy some washers and try up that to 1.6mm or more total. That should give me a bit of space. Would it be worth it to put a spacer behind the cassette at the rear? It wouldn't have as much of an effect at moving the chain out as at the front, but I'm not far off the thing running smoothly. I have a 12 speed cassette on a hg free hub. I'm not sure one would even fit? Does anyone know if this would cause other problems?

Also, regarding the app, when adjusting the front derailleur limits, there is a little target, bullseye symbol in the bottom right. What does this do? It seems to reset the derailleur somehow, but it's not clear how to use it. It's not on any video I've seen of people adjusting the FD using the app?

From a kick look last night, in US at least ER9 is barely cheaper than 105, 610$ vs 710$, not sure how you justify Ltwoo vs shimano in that case

It is close. In Ireland you can get 105 DI2 for about 1000 euro. My ltwoo erx cost me probably 800 by the time I bought a cassette, cranks and chain, and discs. But I felt as a first time bike builder I liked that you could individually index gears was a good feature. Plus I was able to buy very a light cassette, chainring and chain. So it's worked out probably a better package. We'll see about longevity.
For reference, my dad had a rear caliper failure on a Scot addict after about six months, it locked partially engaged on a ride. The shop and SRAM wouldn't do anything. He had to buy a new one. Other people's experience may be different, but just because you pay more doesn't seem to make people give you better after service in my opinion.

I bought 2 weeks ago 8 barbs + 8 olives with oring Ltwoo on Aliexpress and payed 9,50€ for that, shipping free.

Do you have a link for that product by any chance please?

Oh. It's a wonder they don't have them available for sale if a number of their groupsets use them?

I bought from this, but I see is no longer available.

https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005009838380347.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.fa2d1c24OFMAWm&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol

I actually saw you put that link in a different post. Keep hold of them!! They're a rare commodity now!
Do you know much about brake hoses? I don't know what would happen if I just used a standard bh59.
That link has a part number HW0249.
If you Google that it just brings up the regular set, without an o ring seal?