Quote from: gloscherrybomb on November 19, 2025, 04:46:59 AM
Which 9-46 (or 10-46) 13 speed cassette would you recommend? Thinking of swapping from my current 46T 11-50 for the chainline issue.

What groupset are you using?

Quote from: gintokisensei on November 18, 2025, 10:37:50 AM
Thanks for the answer. I live in a hilly area too, but I'm probably a high speed fan, since right now I'm riding on roads (on another bike) with a Shimano 105 Di2 and 50/36 chainrings, 11-34 cassette and even the 50-11 combination it's not enough for me.

I'd like to make the GV201 an all-road bike, using it on road with one set of wheels and on gravel with another set. To do that, I'm searching for a good combination that could work on both situations.

I'm powerful enough to climb the steepest hills with a 42-44 combination on my actual gravel bike, though I probably find it easier with a 42-46 combination. That's why I'm looking the 9–46 cassettes, because I need high speed on downhills and preferably wide cassette for the steep hills.

A 44T or 46T chainring with a 10-50 cassette should be a good combination too, but at the cost of some weight... Though if it has to work better with the SRAM Rival XPLR rear derailleur than the 9-46, I'm all in.

The main reason for the 42T instead of 44T or 46T is the chainline, once you go larger than 42T you need to use a 0 offset chainring, this moves the chainring outwards by 3mm which gives you a lot of flex on the chain when  on the big sprocket at the rear, it does work though just sounds quite bad and results in quicker chain and cassette replacements due to excessive wear.

A 42T with the 9-46 will be your go to, I'm just not sure about the gear pitch and which groupset its more suitable for. When you ask ZTTO they will tell you its compatible with both Shimano and Sram but when you look at the Shimano vs Sram the spacing is different between the gears so the ZTTO must match one or the other or they have sprockets spaced in a way to try compromise on both, either way you wont know till you get it. In the end again it will work but indexing wont ever be as good as Shimano/Shimano or Sram/Sram pairing.

Quote from: gintokisensei on November 17, 2025, 08:33:51 AM
I'm thinking about buying this frame. Is it possible to mount a 46T chainring on a size 52 frame without any issues?
I'm also wondering what would be better for an all-road setup: a 42T chainring with a ZTTO 9–46 cassette or a 46T chainring with a 10–50 cassette?

You can definitely fit a 46 Chainring, I had a 46T Wolftooth chainring on an Magene Power meter crank but the chainline was not ideal.

I would recommend the 42T with 3mm offset combined with the 9-46 Cassette as this will give you a better chainline.

All this depends on your groupset, I don't like running ZTTO with SRAM or Shimano as the indexing is just not always perfect in all gears but if using one of the Chinese groupsets that will be great.

Im running GRX with 42T and 10-50 Cassette. I Live in a hilly area and never need anything smaller than the 10 or bigger than the 50. Even considering going to a 40T with 10-46 now as I seldom use the 10.

Quote from: Wouter on November 11, 2025, 01:24:06 PM
Look like I got quite a big gap between frame and fork on my gr201 (using kugellager bearings and lexon unox handlebar). If i watch others with this combination they have a lot less room between fork and frame. I have some creaks when im out of the saddle, maybe this is also a reason?

looks about the same as mine

Quote from: Wouter on November 10, 2025, 02:27:50 PM
Oh okay, sorry. Going to check it!

It was my left rear that was uneven and then down pressure on the bike as the bike moved side to side would cause micro movement at the hub which then carried through the frame and sounded like it was the cockpit. I was quite surprised because I didn't expect the problem to be all the way at the back wheel

Quote from: Wouter on November 10, 2025, 01:29:30 PM
I faced the breakmounts, no disc rubbing when standing on the pedals. I can also get the sound when I push the bars into the ground when standing still..

Just to clarify. Mine was not the Break Mounts, it was the dropouts where the hub makes contact with the frame.

Quote from: ediryppah on November 10, 2025, 05:39:53 AM
I'm looking to buy a set of gravel wheels on the 11.11 sale on Aliexpress (good prices and good coupons) but I have a hard time finding many offerings with MS hubs (which I need as I have 1x12 GRX).

Elitewheels has their XPLR option but I'm not convinced (really it's based on the frequent comments about Zipps XPLR wheels and punctures).

This question is basically in two parts - reliable wheels that can be bought from Aliexpress? And if anyone knows any specific ones that are offered with MS freehub.

The elite ENT-Gravel and the road version ENT-Disc are not sold with the MSR freewheel but you can get the MSR freehub separately (also from Elite)

I'm using the SLR-Gravel wheels from Elite, also with MSR Freewheel that i got separately for my GRX 12 speed.

Quote from: Wouter on November 10, 2025, 10:29:13 AM
I have the Lexon Unox bar on my gr201, when I stand on the padels and put down power the headset/ cockpit creaks. Could it be that the metal sleeve the Lexon Unox comes with isnt the snuggest fit and that I because of that my cockpit and headset not totally play-free get? Somebody else that also has this problem? Any solutions?

I have the bar that ships with the frame from Tanatan. Had a similar problem.

Turned out it wasn't the bar. The rear dropout wasn't faced properly and thus not perfectly flat so under pressure when standing out of the saddle the wheel had micro movements and the sound carried through the frame so sounded like it came from the cockpit. I just faced the rear dropout carefully to removed minimal material and that solved my problem.

Might not be the same for you, bottom line is that sounds are deceiving and could carry through the frame so check everything.

Quote from: joegal on October 30, 2025, 01:01:48 PM
10 Nm for Handlebar and Seatpost clamp sound inconventionally high... Usually, 5-6 Nm with carbon grip paste ist enough

Similarly the 10nm for headset expander also seems high. I think ill just leave my handlebars at 6nm as that seems to be enough, seat post is also currently at 6nm and not slipping so no need to increase that either

Quote from: pieterjnz on October 29, 2025, 01:51:57 AM
how much are people torquing the stem where it clamps onto the steerer for the integrated handlebars? I did mine at 5nm but I was getting some clicking sounds coming from there when riding out of the seat going uphill. now tightened it to 6nm and its quiet but worried that 6nm might be too much

For anyone interested, I mailed Tantan. These are the Torque values for the GR201

handlebar=8-10nm
saddle clamp=4-5NM
seatpost clamp=8-10NM
rear hanger=3NM
Bottle cage hole=3NM
thru axle =9-13NM
headset expander=8-10NM

how much are people torquing the stem where it clamps onto the steerer for the integrated handlebars? I did mine at 5nm but I was getting some clicking sounds coming from there when riding out of the seat going uphill. now tightened it to 6nm and its quiet but worried that 6nm might be too much

Quote from: mytrilife on October 13, 2025, 11:47:57 AM
Anyone else have the semi-integrated headset from Tideace feel wierd when on bumpy terrain?
It's like it feels loose... and I've probably tightened it a bit much already.

Looks like enough clearance. do you have enough of the spindle for proper grip on the no drive side crank arm?

Quote from: ediryppah on October 04, 2025, 05:22:15 PM
I might be stupid (probably just inexperienced) but are they offset toward frame or away from it? Looking at your link they're all 3mm offset.

Magene chainline for outer ring should be ~47, whereas GRX is 49.7.
So with 3mm offset are we're talking 44 or 50?

First you mounted the wolf tooth chainring, was it offset too?

And also why different offset based on chainring size? Shouldn't ideal chainline be the same (whatever that is) independent of chainring size? Or does it have more to do with clearance?

Sorry I've never done anything out of standard for any bike really so this is quite new to me.

So the Magene chainline of 47 is measured to the center of the spider, that's because its a 2x crankset, all 2x cranksets chainlines are measured to the midpoint between the 2 chainrings.

1x Cranksets offset is measured to the midpoint of the chainring.

The Wolftooth Chain Ring has no offset so chainline was ~49.5 (same as GRX) and only had less than 2mm space between the frame and the chainring.

3mm Offset bring the chainring closer to the frame. so a 46 with 3mm offset would rub on the chainstay.

The 42T with the 3mm offset brings your chainline to 46.5 (mine measures 46 with the 1 mm spacer) I hardly have enough space between the chainring and the frame to clean with a thin rag.


The chainstay (the part of the frame that runs from the bottom bracket to the rear axle) gets wider as it goes toward the axle end as it has to accommodate the rear hub. Once you go bigger than 42T the chain stay gets too wide so the chainring will start rubbing on the chain stay. to overcome this you have to move the chainring further away from the frame (Bottom Bracket) hence 3mm offset no longer works unless you also add spacers on the crank spindle to move the spider further out.  If you add too many spacers on the drive side spindle, your left side will no linger have enough spindle left for the left crank arm to grip safely so you have to consider that too


When you look at the picture, you will see that if I add a bigger chainring it will rub on the chainstay, unless I add a spacer on the spindle

Quote from: ediryppah on October 02, 2025, 06:26:05 AM
Curious on doing this too, would be the most cost effective way to get a power meter on my bike (also 12 speed 1x GRX).
Can you explain in more detail what stuff I need and what I need to consider?

I don't have the GR201, but current bike has clearance for 48T chainring, so I'm hoping I can fit a 44/46T.
What 3mm offset chainring did you buy? Are there many options out there?
Also the 1mm spacer, where is it?

Chainring I got from this store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008844119020.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.4c791802uxABki

the 1mm spacer I had in my parts bin, you just need any 1mmx24mm Crank arm spacer

For the 1x12s GRX, get your GRX Shifters and Rear Derailleur. Make sure you get a Shimano original Cassette 10-51 on a Shimano Microspline freehub. The cassette is super important to get right if you want smooth shifting.

If you want a 44/46T Chainring dont get the 3mm offset unless you are willing to add more spacers on the crank arm. 0 Offset 44 or 46 works but the chainline is not ideal

I now have my 42T Chainring fitted to the Magene P515.

For those interested, using a 1mm spacer on the drive side with the 42T 3mm offset chainring the chainline is 46mm