Anyone having issue with the headset becoming loose with the alloy stem? Ever since I replaced the stem, the headset is becoming loose and I can hear some slight cracking noise after a long descent with lots of braking involved. How tight to I need to screw the expanded plug? how tight do I need to pull on it using the top cap? how tight does the alloy headset need to be tightened?

Any other suggestions? Are both bearings the same? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

Hello,

Although some brands specify torque values for tightening the expander plug and then for preloading the headset, during the Park Tool mechanic course I attended, they teach that the expander plug should be installed very securely. The goal is to ensure that when you preload the headset, the plug does not slip upward or pull out of the fork steerer tube.

In practice, using only hand force, it is extremely difficult to damage a carbon fork from the inside out with a properly installed expander plug.

When preloading the headset, the stem should already be installed on the steerer tube, but the stem clamp bolts must remain loose. Then install the top cap and the bolt that threads into the expander plug.

The Park Tool recommendation is to tighten the top cap bolt gradually until you begin to feel slight resistance. From there, continue making small adjustments while checking whether all play has been eliminated from the headset system.

If you tighten it too much, the steering will become stiff and the handlebar will not turn freely. If you do not tighten it enough, there will be play in the headset, making the front end loose and potentially dangerous to ride.

One important detail is that the fork steerer tube must be cut to the correct length. If it is too long, the expander plug or steerer may contact the top cap, preventing proper headset preload and leaving play in the system. If it is cut too short (especially below the level of the upper stem clamp bolt), the setup can become unsafe because the stem may not clamp the steerer properly, potentially allowing the handlebar and stem to rotate independently of the fork.

Proper steerer length, correct expander plug installation, and careful headset preload adjustment are all essential for safety and reliable performance.

yes!! Thank for the help!

I'm using Zen Carbon Wheels crank arms, shimano ultegra chainrings (that I have) and goldix cassete all steel (but super light).

Good morning everyone,

coming back here after a few months away from the forum.

My TT was initially built with the original front end but with 9 cm of spacers. Later I bought the Winow aerobar, which looks very similar to the FastTT one. Since they are flat, I also had to buy the angled spacer block from Winow to give them some tilt.

Because my bike is built with Shimano, I currently have some adjustment limitations due to cable length. I still need to decide whether I will disassemble everything and replace the cables, or simply replace the whole groupset.

My frame was purchased in 2024 and the derailleur hanger seems to be the same one used on the VB268 road frame. It does not look like a UDH to me. Has this part been updated on newer versions, or is it actually possible to mount a UDH there? I’m asking because installing a 13-speed SRAM derailleur could be an interesting option.

I’m also open to suggestions for systems/solutions to mount a front hydration setup.

If anyone has questions regarding the bike build or any component, such as the Winow aerobar, feel free to ask!

The winow Cockpit is definetly a good and valuble add-on. More stabiliy due to higher sides at the arm Cups and way more Aero than Standard.

For thw winow aerobars, what garmin mount do you use?

I noticed the part has two holes underneath for a mount, but it's not easy to find one that fits. I saw that Winow sells a version with two clamps that attach to the aerobar extensions.

today  I'm using a generic road bike mount screwed into the central hole on the original plate of the bike kit.

Oh and one I forgot: Those of you who got the winow bars or extension, do you think it makes a huge difference? And would it be a big PITA to switch it out later? (I'm assuming it is)

Answering your other questions, my bike has a purple chameleon paint job (the color shift is quite subtle), and I’m really happy with the result.

I’ve purchased the Winow aerobars, but I haven’t installed them yet. You’ll definitely need the angled spacers, because the original aerobars are 15° while the Winow ones are 0°. The blocks haven’t arrived yet, so I haven’t set them up, but since I’m running a Shimano Di2 system (which has a fair amount of cabling), I don't think the swap will be too difficult.

As for the wheels, I’m currently running 60mm, but here where I live in Italy, I switch to 40mm when it’s windy. I’m quite light, and the wind tends to blow me all over the road.

Hi all,
Anyone use the velobuild stem ?
Just wondering would a Velobuild "track" stem work on a TT setup.
Don't see why not.
almost half price of the winow version and looks very close.
70g lighter also.
i know the latter has more of a neg angle from stem to bars.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009755044874.html?gps-id=pcStoreLeaderboard&scm=1007.22922.271278.0&scm_id=1007.22922.271278.0&scm-url=1007.22922.271278.0&pvid=f1b03e04-1613-4473-b620-8a398f1ef975&_t=gps-id:pcStoreLeaderboard,scm-url:1007.22922.271278.0,pvid:f1b03e04-1613-4473-b620-8a398f1ef975,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238113%231998&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2230%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2212922%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2166.77%2166.77%21%21%21538.43%21538.43%21%402103956b17695073393895140e29b2%2112000050064900122%21rec%21IE%21130344404%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A5107ba5a%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartLeaderboard_2012960048051.1005009755044874

It would be a good idea to ask VeloBuild if it works. Since a track bike doesn't have brakes, it doesn't need cable routing.