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Messages - Minai64

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I've been riding the frame with the Tavelo Avro handlebars - which I do like - however, I'd like to reduce the reach maybe 10mm. I'm considering going separate bar/stem for this.

What are people using that can do cable routing through the headset, stem/handlebar and headset cover wise?
Ideally I'd like a handlebar with channels for the hydraulic lines rather than them going in at the shifters and out through a hole where the stem clamps.

I've seen some people recommend the balugoe handlebars, which while they don't have this channel for the hoses, have a hole before they meet the stem at the middle so the cables could be run under the stem. They look nice too with the flat tops.

In terms of the stem, I like the look of the FSA SMR but if there is a nicer chinertown approved option that people like to do for, I'm all ears. Main goal here is for the cables to discretely run under the stem and into the hole of the top cover.

I did buy the 55r headset from FSA when I assembled the bike, if that helps.

2
This sounds like a crank preload problem. Potentially caused by the BB not being installed tightly enough. As you ride the bike, the BB should tighten, this would cause the preload to decrease, allowing the spindle to move laterally. That squeak is potentially the sound of it moving under load.

You don't need to pull the crank to fix this, but I would to grease or preferably apply anti-seize to the BB. Installing them dry seems like a good way to encounter galling later on. Make sure to torque it down tight, too. I don't use a torque wrench on my BBs (I prefer the open-style wrenches to sockets), but the spec is usually 35-50 Nm. You should aim for the lower end if you are using grease or anti-seize.

I’ve only just had the chance to ride the bike again, but the issue seems to be gone now!
I followed your advice re greasing the BB threads. The ZTTO tool didn’t make it easy to remove the BB (but it came included with it - free!) and I reinstalled the crank making sure not to skimp on the preload adjuster tightness. It’s still hand tight and I’ll monitor for noise in the following rides. Thanks for the tip!

3
I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.

I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.

I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.

I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.

I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?

4
What are people’s opinions regarding clamping the seatpost lower than the grippy surface that it comes finished with? I haven’t properly ridden the bike yet but just deriving measurements from other bikes I’m worried I’ll have to lower it past the grip tape on the leading edge of the seat post. I’m running size small and reckon I’ve got shorter than average legs :D

Also is everyone tightening the clamp to the printed torque on the clamp?
What about the saddle clamp?

5
Most handlebars come with a C-ring, so you'll have to buy one off AliX.
I got it to fit like this:
- I used a 36x45° 8mm high bearing on the bottom. The gap is about a mm. So maybe 7mm high might be better, but it's OK like it is now.
- I went looking in my spare parts (I thought I ordered 2 bearings, but it turned out I only ordered one) and found a 45x45° 7mm high bearing for the top. With the C-ring that was included with my Avian handlebar it was too low. I had some more C-rings lying around from previous builds and the plastic C-ring that I got for my Hygge bike was about 1mm higher than the other, and with this C-ring it fits like a glove with a minimal gap between top cover and frame.

I bought the FSA 55R headset which I hope comes with the C ring. To be honest I could’ve just bought the C ring in itself as the Tavelo bars come with the headset cover for the integrated cables. I just bought the whole headset in case the bearings are better or have a different inner angle or height. It’s all a bit new to me dealing with different headsets and forks!

6
Received the frame today. Everything has made it over safely it seems.
Payment was made 09/12/2025, Alisa said they had a size Small frame in stock, unpainted. I chose for it to be painted transparent black glossy.
Paid USD $849 including PayPal fee, no customs to pay on delivery.

We spoke about the headset issues that other people had had, and she assured me that “that was a long time ago”, however I only received two bearings, a lower crown split ring for the fork (which I don’t think I need) and an expander plug. I’ve only ever built one other bike (Elves Falath Pro disc), and I’m assuming I’ll need to source a top C-ring to reduce the top bearings circumference, and that will make up the remaining stack height, as at the minute, both ends of the head tube have the bearings sitting below the tube, about a 3mm lip.

I bought the Tavelo Avro Gen-1 handlebars with ACR compatibility and those don’t come with the C-ring either.

The seat post clamp cover isn’t the best looking as it overhangs the seat tube and top tube junction.

All in all though everything else seems really good and clean. I’ll keep updating as I go.

7
Well, it looks like Hermes/Evri is being Hermes again and my frame is “delayed”. I really hope they haven’t lost it and I can get my hands on it soon.

8
Just received some pictures of the frame I ordered. Size Small, transparent black glossy. Should be in the UK in about 3 weeks’ time!

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