If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.

Im not sure I get what you mean. Isnt that the same effect as shortening the fork another 1-2mm?
And it sound like transferring all the "force" onto the stem bolts?
I think there are 3 options, which applies here I dont really now. Either the expander doesnt hold, or I have cut the steering tube just slightly too long so I cant apply the necessary force, or there is "play" in the bearings.

Has anyone used my type of handlebar and the out of the box equipment from Velobuild without issues?

I had tools and pedals, else the rest was 1300€. The only thing I got second hand was the Ultegra crank with an 4iiii left arm power meter. I found it for 120€. Else I picked cheap Arisun tires, cheap Bucklos handlebar tape and so on. Even the saddle was only 10€ from AliX.

I’ve a spreadsheet with everything. So I know it was 1300€

Ah, thats where that Power meter went then, had that on my watchlist

Sick looking bike and below 1300€ is incredible. Koudos.

I have my frame ordered and some parts already lying around, will be a first time build, so fingers crossed.

I want to build it up 1x12 with the GRX 827Di2 and a 44t chainring, so I can easily swap in my road tires between the seasons.

Im more in it for the building experience than anything else.

Hi gals and guys,

I am looking for some input and am turning to you for some help.

I want a gravel for the winter because the kickr is already driving me nuts.

So choices are threefold: Get a cheap/used gravel for 1k EUR or so, get something off the shelves that looks decent (Backroad, Nuroad etc) or build something myself for good price/value and the experience.

I am leaning towards the latter but have several questions:

1. Frame: I have repeatedly stumbled across the ICAN Graro and the Velobuild Aero Race Gravel thats widely discussed here. From what I gathered the velobuild is cheaper, more sportive/aggressive but less "support" and less quality in general? I would like something that is established enough to not worry all that much about production issues let alone safety hazards.

2. Equipment: I have never build a bike before. So far I am aware, that internal routing if fiddly, I have to cut the fork etc etc. but what are classical pitfalls to be aware of?
Should I go electric shifting and am I correct in assuming that due to external batteries SRAM is easier to install? Any other reason to pic either Sram over Shimano or vice versa other than personal preference?
I have just become aware of the difference between traditional derallieur hanger and UDH, I am aware of the fact I need the correct BB, I would imagine there are more typical pitfalls?
I would kind of like to avoid sitting in the middle of a bunch of parts that dont fit together without a functioning build.

3. Wheels:
Again, kind of at a loss where to even start.
I had previously considered the Elitewheels ENT in 45/34/24mm simply because they are cheap and I have seen them on a lot of builds. The masses cant all be wrong, right?
What dimensions make sense for a normal build with 40-45mm wide tires? I wont go and do hardcore gnarly stuff.
I would IMMENSELY appreciate a rough guidance where to start for good price/value stuff. Are there brands that are considered good and reliable


If its all too much hassle I think I might opt for the easy way out and just buy a bike but I at least want to give it a fair consideration, as I think it would be really cool to learn how to properly build a bike.
Should I go buy a complete bike, which would recommend? Graro or G3 or might as well go European with Cube/Canyon/Rose?


Many thanks in advance!!!