Quote from: crazyravr on September 22, 2026, 08:02:37 AM
11spd cassette.

Thank you! Does that apply for all 11speed casettes or only the ones, where I also need a spacer on my original ultegra 11s setup?

I e my original 11-32 Ultegra casette doesnt have a spacer but a recently acquired 11-34 (mallorca climbs where too much for me ) CS-HG800-11 cassette came with and needed the spacer. I would assume, this kore spacer serves the same purpose, right?

I guess Il find out

I just put together my top gun 50 (not ridden yet) and I found a silver washer in a seperate little bag.
I ordered both the HG and the SRAM free hubs.

Can anyone tell me what the washer is for?

Thank you!

Quote from: Chiyou on March 16, 2026, 09:47:36 AM
Adding additional spacers will help you diagnose what's going on with your headset (without the hassle of having to cut the fork again).

Loose expander -> carefully observe position of expander, then tighten top cap (with the additional spacers installed). Then disassemble everything again to see whether the expander moved.
Steerer tube too long -> if the issue with the headset play doesn't return with the additional spacers installed (and you have ruled out the expander), you know your steerer tube needs shortening.
Bearing play -> unlikely, I suspect you'd be able to feel that just by handling the bearings.

And yes, the clamped stem is what's meant to keep the headset compressed; the top cap is only intended for the initial bearing pre-load.

Regarding your question about the shim, you'll need shims if your bearing cover bottoms out against the frame; you want the cover to float just above the headtube. The shim(s) would sit between the compression ring and the cover.

Thank you, this was very helpful!

I got a spacer at a nearby shop and used the cap which was thankfully also provided by velobuild.
I think it has fixed the problem for the most part for now.

Its not pretty, but not ugly enough for me to redo the bleeding of the breakes - classic case of "whatever, Il leave it like that for now".


I still dont fully get the shim thing but maybe thats a topic to look into some other time.

Quote from: hubba on March 16, 2026, 12:38:17 AM
If a steerer tube is few mm too long to remove the play you can always tighten the headset first using a round spacer if you have one. Sometimes you can even use a spacer from integrated handlebar installed sideways. After tightening the top cap so there's no play tighten the stem bolts then remove the top cap and round spacer and install the original top cap.

Im not sure I get what you mean. Isnt that the same effect as shortening the fork another 1-2mm?
And it sound like transferring all the "force" onto the stem bolts?
I think there are 3 options, which applies here I dont really now. Either the expander doesnt hold, or I have cut the steering tube just slightly too long so I cant apply the necessary force, or there is "play" in the bearings.

Has anyone used my type of handlebar and the out of the box equipment from Velobuild without issues?

Hi guys,

I have finished my (first ever) built and ran into the same headset problem, its already more than tight and there is still play left. I dont fully get why and how you guys fixed it, so I would immensely appreciated your feedback. I also had to move the settings of the derallieur almost as much "inwards" as possible for the derallieur to sit over the cassette properly and was worried but shifting is smooth so I dont see any reason to change it.

Here is my built:
Grx Di2 827 (fully wireless) with 105 brakes and levers, enough for me and I much prefer the "slimmer" handles.
Elitewheels whatever
Velobuild Gravel handlebar
44t chainring, I will need bigger. Might even try a 9-45 cassette if 46 is the max chainring.

I would be very grateful for you input. Attached you see the expander, the cover and how the expander sits on top of the fork.
How on earth can I get rid of that headset play?
Shim? If yes, where is that supposed to go?
Shorten the fork another mm? -> From how it looks, that shouldnt make a difference. The cap sits correctly and I can properly "pull" the expander towards the top cap.

It feels more like there is "back and forth play" so when I pull the front break and push / pull the bike, the whole cockpit and spacer tower moves back and fort about 1-2mm.
Is that what you guys are describing?

Its driving me nuts and I am really at a loss at this point.


@Niculasch: LOVE your built, looks sick! Great colour, very nicely done.
Which handlebar have you got? It seems you can easily use a different expander, because the round top cap from the Deda fits?
I got the gravel handlebar from velobuild with the custom top cap, that wouldnt work / look stupid.
Also, is the chainline ok? The p515 is a narrower crankset than GRX / SRAM xplr, right? I initially wanted to built it with a p515 as well, have one in stock, but stepped away after reading about chainline.


@Motus: That looks like the same handlebar I got. Did you have play in the headset and how did you fix it?

Quote from: BikerJens on December 14, 2025, 04:28:17 AM
I had tools and pedals, else the rest was 1300€. The only thing I got second hand was the Ultegra crank with an 4iiii left arm power meter. I found it for 120€. Else I picked cheap Arisun tires, cheap Bucklos handlebar tape and so on. Even the saddle was only 10€ from AliX.

I've a spreadsheet with everything. So I know it was 1300€

Ah, thats where that Power meter went then, had that on my watchlist

Sick looking bike and below 1300€ is incredible. Koudos.

I have my frame ordered and some parts already lying around, will be a first time build, so fingers crossed.

I want to build it up 1x12 with the GRX 827Di2 and a 44t chainring, so I can easily swap in my road tires between the seasons.

Im more in it for the building experience than anything else.

Thank you for all the input so far, highly appreciated.

I wrote to both ICAN and velobuild and asked for a quote with custom paint, havent heard back yet.
I really, really like the clean look of the Velobuild based on the builds I have seen so far.
Plus the geometry of the Ican looks much more laid back, compared to my Stevens Road bike at the very least.

"Decent quality" should be fine for me, too, as long as its safe and reliable.
Most likely 40/45c is going to be fine. I dont intend to hit the hardcore trails.

In the meantime I ordered Elitewheels Gravel ENT 45, since they were a bargain. I can still upgrade later if need be.
Made the mistake to get the Shimano Hub which I guess already determines choice of groupset...

2 quick questions for those who have already built the Velo:

- Regarding parts, do I need to purchase anything other than the bottom bracket? Im unsure if the headset requires additional bearings or anything else?

- Regarding deailleur hanger, do I have to "chose" between normal hanger and UDH or are both possible with the frame and I just have take of the hanger if I use UDH?
I read that for UDH I need to ask for 1,0 threaded through axle rather than 1,5 which seems to be default?

While at the topic, do I chose UDH or traditional hanger when purchasing the derailleur or are all derailleurs the same and its only a different way of mounting them? (As in are there different versions of SRAM Force xplr, one with UDH and one with another mount).

I will most likely go for either GRX 827 or Sram Force xplr 1x12 respectively and I dont want to order the wrong parts (again). I would assume both are good?
I would like to buy a decent group set, that I can take with me if I change frames.


Many thanks again

Hi gals and guys,

I am looking for some input and am turning to you for some help.

I want a gravel for the winter because the kickr is already driving me nuts.

So choices are threefold: Get a cheap/used gravel for 1k EUR or so, get something off the shelves that looks decent (Backroad, Nuroad etc) or build something myself for good price/value and the experience.

I am leaning towards the latter but have several questions:

1. Frame: I have repeatedly stumbled across the ICAN Graro and the Velobuild Aero Race Gravel thats widely discussed here. From what I gathered the velobuild is cheaper, more sportive/aggressive but less "support" and less quality in general? I would like something that is established enough to not worry all that much about production issues let alone safety hazards.

2. Equipment: I have never build a bike before. So far I am aware, that internal routing if fiddly, I have to cut the fork etc etc. but what are classical pitfalls to be aware of?
Should I go electric shifting and am I correct in assuming that due to external batteries SRAM is easier to install? Any other reason to pic either Sram over Shimano or vice versa other than personal preference?
I have just become aware of the difference between traditional derallieur hanger and UDH, I am aware of the fact I need the correct BB, I would imagine there are more typical pitfalls?
I would kind of like to avoid sitting in the middle of a bunch of parts that dont fit together without a functioning build.

3. Wheels:
Again, kind of at a loss where to even start.
I had previously considered the Elitewheels ENT in 45/34/24mm simply because they are cheap and I have seen them on a lot of builds. The masses cant all be wrong, right?
What dimensions make sense for a normal build with 40-45mm wide tires? I wont go and do hardcore gnarly stuff.
I would IMMENSELY appreciate a rough guidance where to start for good price/value stuff. Are there brands that are considered good and reliable


If its all too much hassle I think I might opt for the easy way out and just buy a bike but I at least want to give it a fair consideration, as I think it would be really cool to learn how to properly build a bike.
Should I go buy a complete bike, which would recommend? Graro or G3 or might as well go European with Cube/Canyon/Rose?


Many thanks in advance!!!