Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..

Go for the 26mm IW, you can easily go down to a 30C if you need to. Some people go even lower

Okay, so I've been tinkering.

The 35mm GP5Ks have only just arrived so I don't know how they ride yet.
Observations - They are very easy to fit on a 25mm internal and feel much more secure on a 32mm internal.
To the point that regardless or ETRTO I wouldt ride them on the two 25mm internal wheel sets I have.

To date my fauoured set up is the 32mm GP5K clincher on the 32mm internal.

a 32mm nominal tire on a 32int rim is wild
Keep tinkering please

Jesse Coyle from Nero show recently tested new Tavelo bike with Pirelli 40mms and absolutely loved it

Super comfy, basically no speed loss.... hes saying this could be his only bike and hed even ditch his Incolor for it

https://youtu.be/kt0wt9LrvKg?si=7M6GgLjwWpcjXfaJ

40 is a little crazy for me and I have some smooth loops I will keep 28s for, but my next build will def focus on fitting 35s prob at 37 WAM for longer rides on crap roads.

To be honest I was a bit surprised by his numbers. We should keep in mind that he did not really do any real scientific testing, he was comparing speeds recorded across many months, with different frames, different weather, different clothes, etc. (basically everything was different lol). Anyway really interesting.

To me the most important take is that on tarmac, gravel bikes are just better than road bikes for 99% of people, and that endrance bikes are basically pointless. Many of us have been saying this for a while and it's nice to see other influential people realizing it as well. Even the bit about the geometry was spot on, I really think that the geometry of modern "race" gravel bikes is just the best geometry for road bikes. (btw I also think that the geometry of modern grave bikes is bad for what they are supposed to do, but I guess this is a topic for another thread )

Does anyone knows what is even claimed max tyre clearance for this frame.

They say 34mm

The frame was packaged and protected very well, and the entire bike is equipped with silver titanium bolts.

According to the frame geometry chart, the handlebar rise is between 70.8 and 82.5mm. However, since the head tube drops by about 30mm, you actually need to subtract 30mm from the stack value. The seatpost has a 5mm setback (sadly, there wasn't a 0mm inline option).

Once assembled, the bike looks great.

Amazing build, looks really nice.
With how many spacers was the frame shipped? I am planning to run 1 to 2 cm of spacers, but I don't know if it would look fugly or not...
Btw what saddle height are you running and what's the saddle-to-bar drop?

The question is whether it’s worth buying a crank with an aluminum spindle. Does anyone have experience with it?

24mm aluminium spindles are risky, I've seen too many snap in two. Personally I would not use them, maybe for a lighter rider they can be ok

Size XL56, Ultegra 12s Di2, and YOELEO QIANKUN CS60, weighing 7.5kg in the photos, are pretty good for an aerodynamic road bike. The build quality is decent, except for some minor paint imperfections (not visible after assembly). The handlebar decals have air bubbles, which looks a bit unsightly.

what saddle height do you have in this picture?