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Messages - Niculasch

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 17, 2026, 07:15:20 AM »
Quote from: Luffabong on March 15, 2026, 04:21:58 PM
Hi guys,

I have finished my (first ever) built and ran into the same headset problem, its already more than tight and there is still play left. I dont fully get why and how you guys fixed it, so I would immensely appreciated your feedback. I also had to move the settings of the derallieur almost as much "inwards" as possible for the derallieur to sit over the cassette properly and was worried but shifting is smooth so I dont see any reason to change it.

Here is my built:
Grx Di2 827 (fully wireless) with 105 brakes and levers, enough for me and I much prefer the "slimmer" handles.
Elitewheels whatever :D
Velobuild Gravel handlebar
44t chainring, I will need bigger. Might even try a 9-45 cassette if 46 is the max chainring.

I would be very grateful for you input. Attached you see the expander, the cover and how the expander sits on top of the fork.
How on earth can I get rid of that headset play?
Shim? If yes, where is that supposed to go?
Shorten the fork another mm? -> From how it looks, that shouldnt make a difference. The cap sits correctly and I can properly "pull" the expander towards the top cap.

It feels more like there is "back and forth play" so when I pull the front break and push / pull the bike, the whole cockpit and spacer tower moves back and fort about 1-2mm.
Is that what you guys are describing?

Its driving me nuts and I am really at a loss at this point.


@Niculasch: LOVE your built, looks sick! Great colour, very nicely done.
Which handlebar have you got? It seems you can easily use a different expander, because the round top cap from the Deda fits?
I got the gravel handlebar from velobuild with the custom top cap, that wouldnt work / look stupid.
Also, is the chainline ok? The p515 is a narrower crankset than GRX / SRAM xplr, right? I initially wanted to built it with a p515 as well, have one in stock, but stepped away after reading about chainline.


@Motus: That looks like the same handlebar I got. Did you have play in the headset and how did you fix it?

If you read some of the posts above, you'll find my experience. Basically, my problem was with the included shim, which was too thin and didn't allow me to tighten the headset properly (the cover would hit first). I solved it with a 1mm shim (the only one I had on hand; I'm waiting for a thinner one so there's less space between the cover and the frame). Actually, the handlebar is the standard one that came with the frame (I’ve noticed that almost everyone has a different one, so I’m not sure). Yeah, you’re right on the crankset — the P515 has a narrower (road) chainline compared to GRX/XPLR. On paper it’s not ideal with wide cassettes, especially 10/51 or 11/51.
That said, I’ve seen quite a few builds mixing road cranks (Ultegra, etc.) with XT rear derailleurs — same concept. It’s a bit of a compromise, but it works fine in practice as long as you spend some time dialing in the setup.

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 17, 2026, 06:53:08 AM »
Quote from: geramonta on March 13, 2026, 02:28:46 AM
What width do the Continental Race King 2.0 measure when mounted on Elite rims with a 32 mm internal width?
And how much clearance is left between the tire and the frame, especially at the rear?

If possible, could you measure it and send some pictures?
I’m planning to run the Continental Race King 2.0 at the rear and the 2.1 at the front, but I want to make sure it won’t get clogged in muddy conditions.

internal width of my wheels are 24mm. I made a mistake on the model of elite wheels: mine is slr which, on 45mm, is 24mm inner width. clearance is 4mm on both side (tire nubs touch the frame).

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 11, 2026, 04:02:50 PM »
Here is my newly completed build!

Chameleon pink aero gravel frame in size M with integrated cockpit and Elite wheels aero gravel wheels with 45mm profile and 2.0 Continental Race King tires.

Shimano Grx di2 groupset and xt di2 derailleur
Ultegra discs
Miche xm12 11-51 cassette
Woolf-tooth 46t chainring
Fizik Tempo Argo saddle
KMC X12 chain
XT pedals
Magene crankset with P515 power meter and 167.5mm cranks

I didn't have any particular difficulties with the assembly, except for a few minor issues with the headset (resolved with a shim higher than the one supplied).

Perhaps I went a little overboard with the tire section (even though I have about 4mm of clearance per side at the narrowest point at the rear), but I've seen that someone else has already fitted them without any problems. The 46t is also quite close to the limit (I have about 4mm at the point closest to the frame).

I haven't done a test yet, but I'll definitely do one in the next few days.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 05, 2026, 10:23:14 AM »
Quote from: inyaki.gs on March 04, 2026, 12:34:29 PM
Hello,

I’ve had my gravel bike assembled for a couple of months now. Although I’ve only done about 5 or 6 rides because I usually ride my road bike more often. The thing is that today I wanted to adjust the saddle tilt (I wanted to lower the nose because I was experiencing discomfort in the perineal area), and I found that there was no way to move the tilt.

I removed the saddle and it turns out that the clamp that hold the saddle rails are completely stuck. There’s no way to move them. I tried to disassemble it to apply a bit of grease, but it’s impossible to take it off. I don’t know what to do.

I’m attaching a photo of the parts I’m referring to.


By screwing and tightening the saddle, that piece is compressed into the tube. Just insert a screwdriver into the hole and hammer the clamp on the other side.

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 05, 2026, 10:19:15 AM »
quick update on yesterday’s build 😅

The headset issue was that it wouldn’t preload properly: even when tightening everything there was still a bit of play because the top cover was bottoming out before the compression ring could properly load the bearing.

I fixed it by installing the 70 mm Deda expander and adding a 1 mm shim under the top cover. Now the headset preloads correctly and the play is gone. There’s still a tiny gap between the cover and the frame, but it’s purely cosmetic.

The other issue is the rear derailleur B-gap: when shifting from 36 → 42 the upper pulley slightly touches the 51T sprocket because the Shimano B-screw is already fully threaded in and I can’t move the derailleur further back.

So I ordered the 25 mm Wolf Tooth B-screw, which should give a bit more adjustment range. Hopefully that will solve it 🤞

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 04, 2026, 04:33:20 AM »
Thanks, that makes sense.

The expander that came with my frame is actually the integrated type where the top cap and expander are one single piece. I’m starting to suspect that might be the reason why I cannot properly preload the headset.

I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug which uses a separate top cap and expansion system.

Hopefully that will solve the issue.

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 04, 2026, 01:09:53 AM »
Thanks for the reply, that is actually helpful.

My frame came with a different type of expander plug – it’s the integrated type with the top cap built into it. I suspect that might be part of the problem.

Here are photos of the expander and the headset cover that came with the frame.

From what I can see, some Velobuild builds use different cockpits / headset covers, so I’m wondering if the tolerances might differ slightly depending on the cockpit version.

For reference, I just ordered a 70 mm Deda expander plug to replace the stock one.

Did your frame come with the same style expander or a different one?

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« on: March 04, 2026, 12:46:05 AM »
Hi everyone,

I’m currently finishing a build on a Velobuild aero gravel frame and I’m running into an annoying issue with the headset preload that I can’t seem to fully resolve.

The problem is that I cannot properly preload the headset: even when tightening the top cap quite a lot, there is still a small amount of play in the headset.

What I’ve observed so far:
   •   The headset cover seems to sit very close to the frame and may be touching the frame before properly compressing the compression ring.
   •   The compression ring itself sits correctly in the bearing but can still be removed easily if the top cap is not tightened.
   •   The expander that came with the frame is the typical short plug with integrated top cap.

I’ve already tried a few things:
   •   assembling with and without spacers
   •   adding a ~2 mm shim above the compression ring
   •   tightening the expander quite hard

Unfortunately the play is still there.

From what I’ve read in this thread and others, it seems many people replace the stock expander with a longer one (for example Deda / similar 70 mm expanders).

My question for those who built the same frame:

Did replacing the stock expander alone solve the headset preload issue for you, or did you also need to change the compression ring / add shims / modify the cover?

I’d really appreciate hearing how others solved it before I start changing more parts.

Thanks!

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