word of warning because while i do think v3 of the in-frame storage is an improvement and there is definitely a chance of user error, but i did have my v3 door come off on a recent ride.

factors:
- my local roads are crappy with lots of ruts, uneven pavement transitions, etc.
- 1st time using an elite stainless steel double walled water bottle.  it works well keeping water cold, but it's larger size and weight filled with water and ice undoubtedly put more torque on the cage and storage door, than a smaller plastic water bottle i usually use
- i may have unlatched the door lever from closed to open while cleaning the bike after a previous ride (maybe the microfiber caught the door lever and pulled it away from the down position?). or perhaps the additional vibration induced by the heavier bottle was enough to jostle the lever to the open position.  i say this because there were warnings earlier in the ride of rattling noise coming from the area when going over bumps.  i hadn't had rattling after the "fixes" of applying extra speaker wire tape to the edges of the door for a tighter seal.  so i should've stopped to check for loosening of the door when i heard it.  i just assumed it was rattling of the stainless steel bottle against the bottle cage, not a open/loose storage door.

luckily main damage was just a scratched up stainless steel bottle (looks like shit now tbh). the storage door itself had some barely noticeable scratches on the edges i touched up with a sharpie. 

if i had to do it over, would i still want the downtube storage?  kind of am leaning towards "no" in it's current implementation. 

i'm hesitant to use a heavy bottle in the downtube cage with the storage door now.  the seat tube cage is, of course, solid.  LC just needs a more fool-proof, vibration-proof solution than their current method, that clearly other brands have figured out.  now, every ride, i will be yanking and double checking there's no looseness with the door in every direction.

Left is the new one, the one on the right looks a bit worn because I tried to sand it to be more grippy. The new one is a lot better though.

interesting.  so no paint over the "teeth" to make it stickier and bigger "teeth" for bigger bites or more contact patch?  hope it helps.  i haven't had problems with mine but appreciate LC making continuous changes to reduce the risk of slippage issues for everyone

yeah, i don't know when @chaseme's ti mount was shipped, but the truss construction of the newer/current titanium computer mount probably adds strength without adding too much material and weight.

I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.

My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.

I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).

A bit about me:

Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm

My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.

Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.

curious why you're thinking of going from a 58, which you say fits quite well, to 54?   assuming the geometries of the 2 bikes is quite different (commuter -> aero endurance road bike), dropping down so many sizes will only increase the change. 

is the goal to go from an upright commuter to a more racy bike?  are you ready to deal with the flexibility challenges or discomfort that comes with that change, or needing to run max spacers and potentially need a riser handlebar? 

otherwise, why not pick a size closer to your current size?  not trying to be critical per se, but not quite following the logic.

PSLER 63" Bike Foam Sleeve, 6mm for Hydraulic, Shift and Brake Tubes | Internal housing damper foam sleeve fits bike tubes to effectively silence abnormal rattling https://a.co/d/0iMV9PEu

Hi, could you tell me, which foam you used? Thx!

agree di2 is nice.  fast and never misses.   i have to still be careful not to crank too hard during a shift, forgetting that's still not ideal, whether mechanical or electronic.

curious what about the bottom bracket install doesn't feel "durable" or "right"?  was the surface not flat or faced? 

re: seatpost, yeah pretty much everyone's agreed it's ok to add a couple extra NM torque to keep it from slipping.  i did that from day 1 so no issues.

re: the storage cover, yeah, i also added a bit of extra stereo wire tape to the edges of the cover, as someone else suggested, just for a snugger fit and less rattling risk.  probably more noticeable depending on the riding surfaces you're on and why some folks report no noise/rattle and others still have issues.  roads here in california are pretty bad.

re: crosswinds, for some of folks with issues with the LCR in cross winds, i'm wondering if the LCR018 might be their 1st aero bike.  i remember riding my first triathlon bike decades ago, with it's deep frame profile and running deep aero wheels, it was jarring when i got hit with the first in cross wind (especially in aero bars).  granted that was back with V-shaped 60mm deep rims,  but the LCR with modern U-shaped 50mm wheels has been great for me.  i'm also 82kg so can tolerate it a lot more.  if you're going from round tubes with low profile rims, to aero bike with 50-60mm deep wheels and you're light, then, yeah, it's going to be an adjustment.  going down to 40mm at least for the front, might make sense is you're riding in windy conditions often.  you won't lose that much in aero and gain back a lot in confidence.  but if it's not windy all the time, give it some time and i think you'll adjust.

my other road bike, while carbon, isn't particularly aero shaped and has 30mm carbon rims, so i wanted a contrast by getting the LCR with 50mm rims.  it'd feel silly to me, to spec my aero frame with a 30mm wheels.

I haven’t ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.

Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels strangely nice and surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.

Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or durable.

Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.

I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.

The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.

The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but forr me, it didn't work out of the box.

Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.

The frame is nicely made and the painting is incredible for that price.
The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
I would order again but ask for more standard axles and holes.

Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.

My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost.  In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand.  Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?

you're fairly safe clamping an aero carbon seatpost if the clamping force is in the same plane as the seatpost clamp (ie. have the jaws of the workstand clamp the front and rear of seatpost, instead of the thin sides). 

but yes, those hirobel clamps that retrofit onto workstands that disperses the loads towards the ends of the top tube where it's strongest, is probably the safest way to go.