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Messages - kam

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1
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Aluminum gravel wheelset
« on: September 05, 2026, 05:40:37 AM »
I'd also look at Fun Works / The Wheelbuilders in Germany. They have a custom wheel configurator where you can choose rim, hubs, spokes and nipples individually.

One setup I've been looking at for a dedicated winter wheelset is the Fun Works Amride 30 alloy rim, DT 370 LN hubs, 32/32 DT Competition stainless spokes and brass nipples, built 3-cross.

For winter use, especially if the bike sees road salt/brine, it is strongly recommended to prefer brass nipples over aluminium. The weight penalty is basically irrelevant here, while brass should be much less prone to corrosion and seized nipples. Stainless spokes are also worth having, and standard J-bend spokes / external nipples make future repairs easier.

The Amride 30 is officially rated to 120 kg system weight, which feels quite conservative for a 30 mm internal alloy MTB rim with 32 spokes, but it's still the manufacturer's published limit so I'd treat it as such.

One caveat: the configuration I'm looking at is 650B / 27.5", so that may not be what you want if you specifically need 700C / 29". On the other hand, 650B often gives you noticeably more tyre clearance in the same frame, which can be useful for a winter setup if you want to run wider tyres.

The configurator is here:
https://www.fun-works.com/dt-swiss-370-ln-ratchet-disc-is-custom-wheelset-mtb-27-5-4107

2
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Basic budget frames
« on: September 05, 2026, 03:42:04 AM »
The Twitter G2 Max seems very interesting. I was considering the standard G2 a year ago but eventually passed due to the narrow tyre clearance. This seems to be 50c, anyone has one?

I set one up a few weeks ago, you can find some photos on my IG profile: https://www.instagram.com/p/DblHe7siPTv/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsi=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== and https://www.instagram.com/p/DcYDpIWCBy2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsi=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

So far so good. It is however not really designed for DI2 cable routing. I routed the RD cable through the FD hole which was rather cumberstone and needed a lot of trickery and pressing (slightly damaging the cables). Ride feeling is great. For the price a great buy.

3
what was the delivery time like.  looking for a new set of wheels for my 018-D.

I ordered/paid on 13.04. and took around 1 month before they shipped (16.05.). Once shipped, I received them within a week (22.05.).

4
Aren't the Ullicyc T4 Ultra on AliExpress near identical to the HBR17?
Slight differences in the mounting system to the fork and cable routing ports, but the rest seems very comparable to me...

Attached are both, the HBR17 (LCR bike) and the ULLICYC T4 Ultra (with the Garmin). The T4 is generally more bulky and I prefer its look except for the mounting front screw.

Let me know if you need measurements or other pictures.

5
mine was really good until I actually bought the frame and wheels and is now patchy.

Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.

Edit: Today I got a reply. "Remove your seapost, take some photos of the anti-slip beads, and the serial number on the bottom of the frame". Not the friendliest but at least a reply (lurking, LC?). After viewing some Youtube videos linked here and following suggestions, I wrapped isolation band around the seatpost. This seems to make it wide enough to not have play anymore. Given the creaking was still there I went for the obvious parts and indeed the bottom bracket was causing it. Given a replacement + the isolated seatpost the bike is now fully functional again and adhering to the desired quality so I will not need the replacement - that is positive! The whole treatment still leaves a bad taste behind...

6
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?

As the reply next to your question, I also use the XMCS 26mm internal wheels on my LCR as seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DaQ0y6LiH-B/ paired with Pirelli P Zero Road 35mm. Think this width makes absolute sense given the LCR's clearance + allroad/comfort characteristics. This combo comes out at exactly 35mm with the wheels 33-35mm external width.

7
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: June 08, 2026, 08:31:18 AM »
Anyone knows how to buy the ELEVER aka flatbar shifters they have on their website since a long time? There is a new eR9 offering on AliX with a thumb shifter but that is yet a different one.

8
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699  - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120.  Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145

I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.

The attached frame is YS7935. Depending on light it shins brighter but I tend to agree that classic british racing green would be even darker.

9
on saddles, the good news is aliexpress sells tons of options for cheap. Specialized sold a lot of the... i forgot the name, but it agreed with lots of women, and Ali ofc sells a clone.

How tall is she? surprised to see a woman considering M/L frames. Usually women are weak and short. If she weighs more than some men, the "right" frame can vary a lot. A dude running a Large frame will probably care about aero because he will easily ride fast. Meanwhile a 50kg woman will probably want something closer to an aethos because comfort, snap, weight, and i rarely see women doing bunch rides at 40+kmh.

From there, i find it odd you're looking at road bikes and gravel bikes. A gravel bike is not a road bike, and vice versa. Do you know the riding you'll do?
The Gran Turismo is being discounted because the original price didn't clear, but it could still be an overkill compared to a LT301, for eg. The 301 could be a great option, because it's relatively budget friendly, w recent specs (low weight), wide clearance, and the geometry is on the relaxed side.

Hi Serge

Thanks a lot for hooking into this thread - you seem to have a great understanding of bicycles and geometries so appreciating your input!

> on saddles, the good news is aliexpress sells tons of options for cheap

We already tried around 5 RYET Saddles but none seemed to help. Measured sit bone is 145mm and the widest saddle we tried was 155mm. Maybe time to go even bigger. On the fitting session a 165mm was tried which she found confortable but then again this is a 10min impression.

> How tall is she? surprised to see a woman considering M/L frames.

So am I and I hope I am not doing the same mistake as the vendor of the current (very badly fitting) bike did. It was the reason we went to the bike fitting session but you see I am still struggling to bring logic into the numbers as he wasn't doing a good job.

She is 173cm and weight around 78kg, so slightly chubby. Currently she rides a CUBE Agree 56 and I purchased the 0 setback seatpost, a shorter stem (80mm), a low reach handlebar etc. etc. but while it got better with every adjustment it was clear the bike isn't the right choice for her.

Personally I ride the Agree in 53 and am 174cm/70kg so back then when buying would also have expected her to get this size or another bike (e.g. the CUBE Attain). The seller sold the 56 arguing the stack is higher on larger sizes - not mentioning everything else will be too big as well (our first bikes).

She'd like to ride an endurance/road frame with enough clearance for some light gravel - not a full blown gravel bike. I posted here because the expected geometry (based on how I read the fitting guide) seems to be easier found in this section but a "real" endurance/comfort geometry road bike would indeed be preferred.

During the fitting session her flexibility was evaluated (not the best).

I also own a BXT-135 (52) and LCR-018D (52) and both seem to have a to low stack as well.

> The 301 could be a great option

A lovely bike I have on my list. Not sure it still isn't relaxed enough for her however based on the geometry from the fitting (but then again, hard to read/trust).

Given all of that info - feeling demanding here - how would you approach this?

Thanks a lot in advance!

10


Hi all,

I am looking for some input on ramesets for my partner. Her fit is basically: a high front end, but not much reach.

The best reference geometry I have found so far is the older Canyon Endurace CF in size M, which is around 590 mm stack / 378 mm reach. The HongFu FM238 in size L seems to be very close to that on paper, so it is currently my strongest candidate.

From her bike fitting report/sketch, the current/reference setup is roughly:

Code: [Select]
Frame stack: ~551 mm
Frame reach: ~372 mm
Saddle height: ~752 mm
Effective top tube: ~525 mm
Stem: 90 mm
Handlebar width: 380 mm
Final handlebar center height: ~649 mm

The important part is that the current setup effectively needs around 98 mm of height above the frame stack to reach the fitted handlebar position. That feels like a lot, so I would prefer a frame with 2–4 cm more stack instead of relying on a huge spacer tower.

So my rough target would be something like:

Code: [Select]
Stack: ideally 580–595 mm
Reach: ideally 370–382 mm
Use case: endurance road / allroad
Tire clearance: at least 32–35 mm, more is welcome

Current shortlist:

Code: [Select]
Frame                  Size    Approx. stack/reach    Notes
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
HongFu FM238           L       ~590 / 378              best match so far, but only 32C clearance
XMCS Gran Turismo      560     ~582 / 380              very interesting modern option, 35C, T47, UDH
Seraph / TanTan GR048  M       ~579 / 373              good fit numbers, but more gravel-oriented
SP-Cycle G058          M       ~579 / 373              similar to GR048
Carbonda CFR-505 SL    M       ~571 / 378              nice allroad frame, but maybe still a bit low
Carbonda CFR-505 SL    L       ~595 / 388              good stack, but probably too long

Ideally I would like a frame that allows a fairly flexible build:

  • standard 27.2 mm round seatpost
  • ideally 0 mm setback seatpost option
  • headset/cockpit standard that works with third-party integrated cockpits
  • narrow cockpit option, ideally 360 mm at the hoods or at least 380 mm
  • not too dependent on proprietary spacers, stems or seatposts

I am also wondering how much the cockpit could broaden the list of possible frames. For example, are people here using specific solutions such as:

  • riser drop bars
  • positive-angle stems
  • high-stack stems
  • FSA ACR-compatible stems/cockpits
  • compact bars with short reach
  • narrow integrated bars, e.g. 360/380 mm
  • separate stem + bar instead of a one-piece cockpit

One additional complication: my partner currently tends to sit quite far back on the saddle because of soft-tissue/genital discomfort. If we find a saddle that solves this, she may naturally sit more forward, which could reduce the effective reach requirement by maybe around 20 mm. So I am not sure whether I should size the frame strictly around the current fit, or allow some margin for the contact point possibly moving forward later.

Paint is also important for this build. I would be interested to hear which sellers are known for good paint quality, reliable custom colors, clean masking/logos, and durable finishes. A nice custom paint job could easily influence the decision between otherwise similar frames.

At the moment, my gut feeling is:

  • HongFu FM238 L = best geometry match
  • XMCS Gran Turismo 560 = most interesting modern alternative
  • GR048 / G058 = interesting if going more gravel/allroad

Would appreciate any suggestions for other Chinese frames I may have missed, or real-world experience with these frames, especially regarding fit, cockpit options and paint quality.

11
did she sent free of charge (transportation included)?

Also wondering, as I was "offered" the upgraded version for USD 75 with USD 60 shipping cost - not free at all.

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