Quote from: shuhockey on October 14, 2026, 07:33:14 AM
I'm going Ultegra Di2 12 Speed, anyone else fitted this and have any tips/ suggestions for fitting and any spacers needed for BB and crank spacing? Will be running either 32 or 35mm road tyres.

I'm running an 8100 Ultegra crank on the stock BB with no spacers and not had any issues with the crank so far after probably 200km+. First time builder so I could be incorrect about not using spacers (Claude suggested I would need them 85.5mm vs 86.5mm BB width), but after i preloaded the crank with the dust cap there was no play at all so I didn't think a spacer as needed.

Quote from: Indyrunner03 on October 03, 2026, 09:05:43 PM
I finished the build of my LCR018-D a few weeks ago (picture is from a right after I got done but before I got bar tape on).  Finally had a chance to get out for a ride this morning.  I was only able to get out for a couple hours but what a fun bike.  I'm used to riding an Aethos that's extremely light but is also a climbing bike while I live in a pancake flat part of the US (600ft of elevation of ~43mi this morning).  The main differences I could feel are:
1) In the liminal spaces between getting to speed and maintaining speed.  Aethos faster to get to speed and LCR better at maintaining speed especially in a draft
2) LCR is a significantly comfier ride - I run 28s on the Aethos and 30s on the LCR which accounts for a lot (same wheels for both)
3) Decents (for what it's worth here) and turns felt crisper/easier on the LCR

Also, this was my first bike build even though I'm comfortable with regular bike maintenance.  Definitely a fun process but, man, getting a T47i to torque was not fun.  Everything else was pretty straightforward.  I can full build specs if anyone is interested.

Any tips on how you got the BB to the right torque? I ended up just getting it as tight as possible and it's not making any noises atm but i'd love to go back and recheck the torque.

Quote from: vito117 on September 20, 2026, 08:39:31 AM
Anyone know a source to buy just a new RD-FD combo?
I currently have a V1.0 ER9 and looks like the RD is dead . I really didn't mind it . It worked pretty good considering.
That being said, I would keep the shifters, battery, and brakes so just need to swap in a new RD.  I realize the newer verisons charge to the FD so new one is needed.
Seems AliEx stores all want to sell you the whole groupset which I have no need for.

If taobao ships to your country, I've seen there are listings to purchase individual parts of different groupsets on there. Might be worth a look.

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up removing another link pair and all seems to be working fine now. Took the bike out for the first ride today and gear shifting was great.

Would be keen to hear any tips anyone has found for making the shifting feel as good as possible.

Also in terms of manual trim, if I'm in the biggest cog and chain ring and then go to the smallest cog, how do I get the trim to go back out to the further possible on the front derailleur to prevent chain rub? Currently I'm going down to the smallest chain ring and then back up to the big one again.

Quote from: jonathanf2 on September 17, 2026, 10:16:03 PM
Switch out the jockey wheels to Shimano Ultegra upper and lower 11t wheels to properly clear the 11-34t cassette. That should get the cage to clear that setup with very minimal chain slack especially when using gear protection. You can also get the 18t OSPW with narrow wide teeth to clear that combo. That combo can even clear 11-36t.

Thanks jonathanf2, I'm already running the 18t OSPW that came with the new cage and trying to figure out if that's what is causing the excess chain slack at when using both the smallest cog and chainring. Would love to hear if you have any experience in running a similar set up to me and whether or not you had as severe chain slack as me or if I've stuffed up the installation (either not set the derailleur spring tension correctly or if my chain is still incorrectly sized).

Thanks.

Quote from: lavistaa on September 17, 2026, 07:06:59 PM

I'm using one of those offset 18t pulleys and also an 11-36 with a 42/26 crankset and have zero shifting issues.   I believe if you turn on "gear protection " in the app it will also automatically avoid this (bad) combo.

Thanks Lavistaa. I plan to have gear protection on, but during my tune up of the shifting i wanted to go through all gear combos to double check there weren't any issues. everything went fine except for the chain slack on the 11 and 34 combo. Do you have much chain slack when you go 11 and 26?

Is there anyone running the oversized pulley? I accidentally stripped the bolt hole on the standard ER9 derailleur cage and so had to get an oversized pulley cage replacement.

I'm running 50/34 and 11-34 Ultegra/105 and I'm having a problem where even after sizing the chain correctly and removing an extra set of link pairs, I'm getting a situation where on the largest cog (50 and 34) there is sufficient tightness in the chain/derailleur, but when I run the smallest cogs (34 and 11) the chain is completely slack. I know typically this isn't a combination that you're advised to run, but just want to make sure I haven't set up my kit wrong.

Any advice/feedback would be helpful.

Thank you.

Looking to see if anyone has some longer term use reviews and whether or not this is still worth buying.

Thanks

Quote from: mingc on August 17, 2026, 12:34:52 PM
I'll be glad to take donations to buy a genuine Mitutoyo. Perhaps I'll start a GoFundMe.

My Gineyea is installed and bike fully assembled. I posted a pic of the finished bike earlier in this thread. No more close up dimensional pictures! I do have an unused tool for a 50mm T-47.

It does not surprise in the least that there is more than one version of the Gineyea. It is both a scourge and boon of Chinese manufacturing that specs can change overnight without notice.

@mingc agree that with Chinese manufacturing the specs could change depending on the hour you buy something. It might be helpful to the thread if you let people know when you got your frame and that way others reading this might be able to reference the same purchase time frame and buy the right tool. I ordered my frame in April and received it in July and have a 49mm bb.

Also, this could just be the camera angle/lens or additional material on the tool itself but the difference in size between the 49mm and 52mm tool appears to be significantly larger than 3mm.

Quote from: mingc on August 16, 2026, 07:27:16 PM
Yes. Can you not see my attached picture? I assume you know how to read a vernier caliper. The unit marking is out of the frame but the marks are millimeters. To belabor the obvious, the Gineyea in my picture is different from the CEMA in yours.

I have the same steel Gineyea 24mm axle BB from LC. I bought this 5 in 1 tool from ali and the 49mm 16 tooth option (FSA-386) of the tool fits perfectly on my BB shell and screws it in without issues.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007635352794.html

Quote from: Serge_K on August 10, 2026, 02:07:16 AM
Fwiw, I think v1 and 2 are cross compatible, but V3 isn't backwards compatible. And V3 shifters are different, the buttons changed a bit, graphics too, rubber housing too.

I would advise ever buying v1 or V2, the charging is shit, the rear derailleurs are prone to sudden death, the braking is questionable (tends to stop working for no apparent reason), the clicky things go to shit over time, it's really poorly made. How durable V3 is, to be seen. I've put these things on 5-10 bikes, and I mostly regret it.

So based on the fact that my front derailleur would be a v3 given the charging port, then the rest of groupset should be v3? I wonder why they make it so confusing with all the different graphic/font changes between the same version of the groupset.

Quote from: ownthesky on August 07, 2026, 12:55:21 AM
I could take some photos, is there anything you'd like to see specifically? V3

Awesome thanks, just general photos of the rear and front derailleurs really. I wanted to compare them against what my derailleurs look like as I'm certain I have the v3 because of the front USB-C charging, but the graphics themselves and the also the naming on the app don't line up to the Ltwoo website.

I think brake levers haven't really changed between the versions so I'm less concerned.

Quote from: ownthesky on August 06, 2026, 03:32:04 PM
Got my ER9 set-up and running great on my build from the Aliexpress "Official" store. The only disappointing part is that the air bleed screw on my right shifter is stripped already from the factory, which makes a good brake bleed pretty challenging.

Hey ownthesky, would you have any photos of your group set? I assume it is also the v3? Thanks.

Hi all,

Just received my ER9 groupset. Would anyone have any pictures of what the latest v3 ER9 groupset looks like?

The shift levers, FD and RD match the listing but the brakes are different. The brakes appear to be the BR-R07A-160R with front and rear mounting plates and when I go on the website the FD and RD are different to the Ali listing and the ones I received (as well as part numbers). When I connect the derailleurs to the app they come up at v2 ERX.

Sorry if this question has already been asked before, but I wanted to make sure I have the latest v3 kit and the brakes are the latest from Ltwoo.

Thank you.

waiting for my frame to finish production and i am trying to decide between a 0mm offset and 15mm offset seat post. does anyone have experience with both and could provide some insights other than KOPS? are there any flex differences, does a 0mm offset make the bike feel more "racey", etc?