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Messages - acedeuce802

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1
Thanks for doing this giveaway! No big bike projects this year, the garage is getting pretty full, I do have one road bike without a power meter though... Big cycling goal is finishing the Marji Gesick mountain bike race.

3
29er / Re: Chinese carbon 29er – any long-term experience?
« on: March 03, 2026, 09:44:53 AM »
LCFS911 - put about 5000 miles on it before selling to a friend, no issues, several XC races
FM936 - maybe 2000 miles so far, bought used, no issue, I take this bike to the mountains and don't hold back
FM199 size medium - 4000 gravel miles with no issue, built as a monstercross gravel bike
FM199 size large - cracked seat tube (friends also cracked in same spot), repaired and it's been good for another 1500 miles so far, mostly gravel and smooth XC races

4
I just started using a Magene P505 with this adapter (https://bdopcycling.com/product/bdop-track-adapter-110bcd144bcd-shimano-4-bolt/).  I only have one ride on it so far, so no real feedback yet, but I got the PM/crank for $200 used so it ended up being a nice deal, and it's the same PM I use on the road bike, so less chance for variation.

5
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Shimano chains ~ Aliexpress
« on: December 16, 2025, 08:27:41 PM »
Typically Shimano chains on Aliexpress are counterfeit, not worth the gamble

6
I've got about 500 miles on an AK105. I really enjoy it and have had no issues. I swapped a Magene p505 on and narrower handlebars. It did shift perfectly right out of the box. Seems to be good quality for the price. I have heard the lower end Sava models are fairly poor quality.

8
Not sure what current prices are, but 4 years ago the frameset would've been $760 USD for just frame/fork/shipping without tax.  I paid $1030 including handlebar, paint, spare derailleur hanger, paypal fee.

I do think this is a good do-it-all bike.  I used mine for both gravel and road for quite a while.  I picked up a road bike this year, and there's two main things I notice.  The stack of the road bike is lower so it's more aggressive, more aerodynamic position, but less comfortable.  The steering is also snappier on the road bike than the CFR707.  Before I started racing crits, I didn't care at all.  But it's nice having the quick steering for crit racing.  To be honest the only reason I bought a road bike is because I was switching between road and gravel wheelsets often, it was more for convenience and not for performance.

9
I've run Sram Rival 2x11 with a GX 10 speed rear derailleur (50/34 with 11-36), Sram 2x12 Rival/Force AXS with Shimano cassette (50/34 with 11-34), Sram 1x Rival/Force AXS (46 with 10-50), and now run Shimano 105 2x12 with GRX derailleur (50/34 with 11-34).

I've tried smaller chainrings too but the races by me usually have some fast pavement sections, and no mountains to need lower than 1:1. Haven't measured tire clearance, but I'd estimate it's like 5mm to FD with a tire that measures 47mm.  I very much like 2x for the small steps and bug jump on the front ring to dump a big gear when hitting a big hill. I always had issues with Sram front derailleurs but Shimano has been perfect so far.

11
Does virtual shifting not work for Zwift workouts in resistance mode?  I've never tried it, so not doubting, genuine question.  I know that in ERG mode, shifting will change the target power, and in free-ride mode, it'll act as a gear change, but not sure about resistance mode in a workout.  Zwift cog or single speed with a tensioner would be really reliable and simple, if it works for your setup.

I use Sensah 11 speed on my trainer.  It's been working for several years and a few thousand Zwift miles.  I routed the cables externally with really big bends to minimize cable wear and friction.

12
Dang, wish Balugoe had those a few months ago!  I got the ones with less flare, 34cm at the hoods and 37cm at the drops, and LOVE the hood position, but wish there was a bit more flare.

14
Got the Yoke in the mail last week, haven't done anything but measure so far, and don't plan on installing until putting some good miles on the Brain this year.

Brain shock + yoke, eye to eye = 255mm
Brain shock, travel = 49mm
Brain shock + yoke, at bottom out = 206mm

At bottom out, there's an 8mm gap from the seat stay bridge to the seat tube.  With potential for compressing bottom-out bumpers and frame/pivot/etc compliance, I wouldn't want to go much closer.

AliX yoke = 60mm
Recommended shocks = 200x51mm or 200x57mm

210 shock + AliX yoke, eye to eye = 261mm
51mm travel at bottom out = 210mm
57mm travel at bottom out = 203mm

I was using a measuring square, as parallel to the frame as I could tell, so it may not be the most accurate.  If my measurements were perfect, going to the 57mm shock would bring the seat stay clearance down from 8mm to ~5mm, but I'm sure there's some inaccuracy there.  I think it's at least close enough to say that a 210mm eye-to-eye shock will raise the rear end by ~10mm, the 51mm travel shock will bottom out a bit higher in travel than the Brain (but have slightly more travel), and the 57mm travel shock will bottom out a bit lower in travel than the Brain (and have ~15mm more travel).  I would assume the BikeYoke version keeps top-out height the same as the Brain, but the shorter shock option reduces travel, and the longer shock option matches factory travel.

Raising the rear end by ~10mm will also steepen the HA and STA, so could be a good candidate for a 110 or 120mm fork.

15
505 SL does seem like the right frame for that tire choice, I assume you're going for an "all-road" type bike?  Road tire size with a bit of knob for off-road, but not off-road enough to need a true gravel tire?  Do you ever see yourself wanting a full width gravel tire in the 40-50mm range, which would then push you to a true gravel bike, like a CFR707?  Just sparking some discussion in case anyone else has frame suggestions.

1. What's your goal of the bike?  The Rose and 505 in your comparison have nearly the same stack, and 505 has 14mm longer reach.  So if you ran a 10mm shorter stem on the 505, or pushed the saddle forward a bit, it'd feel nearly identical.  Which sparks the question, do you want it to feel the same?  You say you want more sportiv, do you want a more aero position, so lower stack? 

2. I chose the integrated handlebar with my CFR707, but I'm switching to a separate bar/stem.  You can mostly hide the cables with an FSA/ACR stem, or heavier knock-off version on Aliexpress.  I want to dial in my fit with a handlebar narrower than I could find in integrated, so that drives a separate bar/stem.  Plus integrated bars have handlebar angle fixed.  If it works for you, then the integrated bar is awesome.  But if it doesn't, there's nothing you can do about it.

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