My summary with the "spider only" option + Easton EC90:

- I sanded down most oft the plastic housing to make space for the crank arm. I can easily imagine, that this clearance issue could arise with a multitude of cranks on the market, not just the Easton cranks... Actually, it's not possible to make it work perfectly. Even though the casing is now less than a mm in thickness (I even sanded a small hole, which I sealed with epoxy...), there's still collision with the crank arm.

- Also, as another forum member already stated, there's an edgle radial and close to the cinch interface of the PM, which usual cinch components (chainrings, other cinch PMs, ...) do not show. This makes it close to impossible to properly mount the PM to any "real" cinch crank. This edge is also the reason, why it wouldn't work to use washers in oder so make space for the crank.

Summary: I could easily live with the accuracy issues reported here, and was really looking forward to a PM at this price point. However, it's just not a "real" cinch interface, which disqualifies the spider for use with (probably) many third-party cinch cranks. Therefore, for this use case, I unfortunately can't recommend. This could have easily been adressed design-wise by thinkrider, and it's sad, that they didn't. However, the PM+carbon cranks still sounds like a great deal!

Another datapoint: The PP5 seems not compatible with Easton EC90 cranks. The inner part of the housing touches the crank arm, so that the powermeter cannot sit flush on the cinch interface.

Does anybody know if it's okay to put some spacers in between the spider/powermeter and the crank? Somethin like 1,5 mm should fix the problem. If yes, does somebody have a product link for dedicated spacers? However, I'm a bit sceptical since the interface itself isn't that much more than those 1,5 mm...

Awesome news! Then this is considerably cheaper than "leese + xcadey PM" and similar in weight. Great find, thank you!

Likewise--mine (on a gex) actually fell out during a ride--would've been ride stopping were it not the fact tbat they used the same size screw as my garmin mount! Loctite might be a good idea.l, but be careful about not overtorquing--they strip pretty easily.

I actually had the same issue! Wheeltop sent replacement screws...

@Serenade: Will you offer the TRF4540S as complete wheelset with carbon spokes and some lightweight hubs (e.g. SR310C)? What weight would you expect (standard vs. fly weight)? What rider weight limit would you suggest?

I only know Garmin devices, so I can't compare. But two more things which I like about Garmin:

- They have a programme where they replace damaged computers for a reasonable amount of money (not quite cheap, but cheaper than the used market). So if your device fails, you'll have access to a certified refurbished one, and don't need to buy a completely new one.

- If you're also a runner and own a Garmin watch, all your training data and training recommendations are nicely synced via the Connect App (also true for swimming, nordic skating, etc...).

9t cassettes are fine. It puts the 11t cog in a better chain line. The 9t cog is is best used for the downhill or for brief acceleration. If you use the 9t cog often, it probably means your front chainring is too small.

exactly!