I came across them as well, pretty fair price but it's for those 25,4mm handlebars... They've been standard decades ago but I don't know whether I would trust them nowadays.

Does anyone know a source for stems with 1,56" (39,6mm) steerer diameter? I want to replace the 100mm/-20° setup on my Cannondale with something more relaxed but less than the next size of -5° that is offered from Cannondale... So 100mm/-10° would be something I'm looking for. Thanks guys!

Thanks for picking up the topic again! To be more precise regarding the type of cassette: it is this one https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001874227807.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.89.201b5c5fm3ZIaJ&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu (hope the link works... how can I create those short links?) It is a one-piece cog design machined from steel, installed on a aluminium carrier. Just the smallest cog is a separate one. From the message I commented ybove I read that there was a similar design referred to, and the fix was to apply Loctite.
Now I put some Loctite 641 to the area where the steel and the aluminium part are in contact. Not sure whether it has a chance to intrude and cure...

Quote from: Sebastian on July 26, 2023, 02:06:19 AM
Update on my creaking 12sp cassette - more than 1000km later, the creaking still hasn't returned since I put thread lock on the interface between the spider and the cogs. So fingers crossed that I fixed the issue. Still, it seems that this interface, where the cogs are riveted to the spider can be a weak spot.

As for shifting and wear - it's been good. Not in any way inferior to cassettes from Shimano/Sram/Campag that I've been using in the past. The rainbow finish still looks like new.

I suppose I ran into the same problem: have a 12speed 11-50 cassette. Been running it for aprx. 1500km when a creaking started and quickly became quite loud. Dis- and reassembly (with mounting paste) stopped the noise for 100...150km. It is a once-per-rearwheel-revolution creak. Where did you apply the locktite exactly? I see the steel cogs somehow mounted to the aluminium part... but no gap where I could apply any the Loctite. Also which loctite did you use? Some gap-filler? Thanks a lot for any hint!

Thx for discussing on my question! For the Shimano SLX I read that the derailleur only works with 10 teeth smallest cog; but I can use only 11 (restricted by HG freehubs). Anyway, I ordered the L-TWOO TX set plus a Spedao 11-50 cassette. At least for the chain I stay with proven suppliers means Shimano :-)

I briefly read through the threads - MTB groupsets seem to be of less interest compared to road/gravel. So I'd like to ask for experences and recommendations on MTB 1x12 speed groupsets? Focus is on shifter/derailleur recommendation, but hints on HG compatible cassettes are alos welcome :-)
From what I found the Ltwoo TX (letters mixed up ;-)?) seems to be an option, or possibly Sensah XRX? I would not go for carbon cage...
Would the ZTTO 12 speed with a weight of 400g (11-50) a good idea?
Thanks for any hints!

Quote from: jstrawks on January 16, 2022, 07:03:13 AM
You're a more accommodating customer than I would have been in that situation. I'd have repeated the mantra "send me the correct frame" as many times as it would have taken for them to do so, and make me go away.

IF I wouldn't have desperately been waiting for the frame, and if I would have read the reports about successful claims before, most likely I would have done so ;-)

Quote from: Michi on November 01, 2021, 04:34:25 AM
Nice wheather yesterday here in greater Stuttgart area, so i took the chance to... no, not ride:-( but to take some pics of the (95%) final state of my 1056. I changed the stem several times; now with a Rose Race Attack I'm pretty satisfied as it matches well the frame tube shapes (flat at the top) and the matte color. Setup is "full mechanical" incl. brakes (TRP Spyre SLC). With 160mm front and 140mm rear the performance is fine for a road bike; a bit more would alway be nice (heard of magical "ceramic" pads from the far east ;-)). I tried to run the cables as smooth as possible. With the nice polished parts at the brake calipers and the crank brothers pedals I tried some aluminium bottle cages; from my point of view it matches quite well. Anyway with bottles in them you won't really recognize them anymore... Some plotted decals to be done including giving the baby a name. I think of "1a n3ra" (read: la nera") and make some fun out of the "13" raplcing "lE". Main thing is: color or black reflective? And if color: which? A well known member of this forum is supporting me strongly, but I'm still undecided...

New year update: some might remember that I have that my 1056 has a special top tube shape around the upper headset area. Wing confirmed that the frame was wrongly delivered. It is an OEM design... I asked whether she could tell me the OEM, so I could purchase the matching headset (cover). She said that's not possible, instead she offered to create and send me a specific top cap  . It's made of aluminum, surely 3D printed.
With internal routing the installation is quite some effort; as I have everything mechanical at least I did not need to remove hydraulic lines. Anyway, now it's done. the cap is even superior to the FSA cap, as every cable runs through a separate hole with it's own rubber seal.
Some modifications were required anyway: the gap in the compression ring was too small to route all 4 cables, so I had to cut small "cake pieces" from it, and with the FSA bearings the gap btw. cap and frame was sligtly too tight. To install the microspacers I had to Dremel away the two pins that fix the top cap in the compression ring. Now they are aligned just by the cables, but no issues with that. Again I'm really impressed by the service Carbonda provides.

Nice wheather yesterday here in greater Stuttgart area, so i took the chance to... no, not ride:-( but to take some pics of the (95%) final state of my 1056. I changed the stem several times; now with a Rose Race Attack I'm pretty satisfied as it matches well the frame tube shapes (flat at the top) and the matte color. Setup is "full mechanical" incl. brakes (TRP Spyre SLC). With 160mm front and 140mm rear the performance is fine for a road bike; a bit more would alway be nice (heard of magical "ceramic" pads from the far east ;-)). I tried to run the cables as smooth as possible. With the nice polished parts at the brake calipers and the crank brothers pedals I tried some aluminium bottle cages; from my point of view it matches quite well. Anyway with bottles in them you won't really recognize them anymore... Some plotted decals to be done including giving the baby a name. I think of "1a n3ra" (read: la nera") and make some fun out of the "13" raplcing "lE". Main thing is: color or black reflective? And if color: which? A well known member of this forum is supporting me strongly, but I'm still undecided...

Quote from: Cerps on September 23, 2021, 03:58:09 PM
I'ver run into the same issue with Lezyne mounts.  On my gravel bike I run the o-ring mount on the stem.  It's been alright.  It does seem a little jiggly and I'll have to see if the flexy cross piece is stressing.

On my fatbike the stem is way too short to fit the o-ring mount.  so I used the O-ring mount onto a cateye stem mount and it fits.  This the the cateye mount I'm talking about

https://sportfactoryproshop.com/cateye-flextight-stem-handlebar-mount/

On my full suspension bike the stem is just slightly too short.  On this one I use a cateye k-edge adjustable stem mount that I 3d printed an adapter that I screwed this barfly adapter into.  This one is awesome because it eliminates the flex piece that breaks with a spring loaded cone.

https://www.performancebike.com/bar-fly-lezyne-computer-head-insert-bf4lzynb-461/p-fe7rs4gc2uqrgqhe?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7asy0i1ADgVQ6Ai7EcENM51pWpDUFHEKwVkVRWxuyKo2etv_qYvDiBRoCQnQQAvD_BwE

I lost this thread a little bit out of sight... but this post is very helpful, thanks! The Barfly option looks promising; I need to check how I can get that in Germany...

Quote from: jstrawks on September 05, 2021, 02:53:59 PM
The mounting points on a road bike fork and chainstay are standardized. If your caliper is made for a 140mm rotor, your caliper needs an adapter to accommodate a 160mm rotor, not your frame.

Again what learned... it was clear to me that the fork and frame mounts are standardized. But I was not aware that there are differences in the calipers. I thought they are all designed to match 140mm rotors and need adapters for different sizes. So another degree of freedom to take care of ;-)

Quote from: uraberg on September 04, 2021, 05:41:17 AM
Right on the lezyne page:

https://ride.lezyne.com/products/alloy-cnc-forward-mount

Oh, I haven't seen that one before! Great, thanks for the hint! " replaceable Composite Matrix X-Lock insert" sounds like they are aware of the weak point...

Quote from: Aesch on September 03, 2021, 10:51:34 AM
The frame guide from Carbonda (top) and from the dolan tuono(bottom) . Interesting difference. (the bottom one even has an imprint "1056").

So there must be more differences, other then the 'fin'. Anyone know of brands using the frame?

That's interesting. The guide I received with my 1056 rather looked like the one on the bottom. There was a small fin on the rear side but only a few mm long and w/o cable. In combination with the fitting issues I'm wondering whether I received the correct one... anyway now it is installed and working. I will receive a bag with some more spares and am now curious how the two BB guides wll look like.

Quote from: Parkerross on September 04, 2021, 10:45:40 PM
What size rotors is the 1056 set up for? Thanks

The rear flat mount fits for 140mm rotors w/o adapter; adapters for 160mm are available. For the fork you need an adapter anyway: I'm only aware of those which can be flipped to suit 140 and 160 mm rotors. 180mm rotors most likely won't fit due to lack of clearance (at least that's my impression lookimg at both front and rear); not sure whether adapters exist at all.

Quote from: Michi on August 24, 2021, 02:11:42 PM
That's at least worth y try! For sure there's one or the other 3D printer in Germany ;-) Thanks for your support!

Thes do not share the models... because they cannot guarantee the print quality then. Understood...