I am having trouble with running the front derailleur cable to the housing in the frame, while the housing is attached to the frame I cant get the cable into it just seems impossible to try an fit the cable into the housing through the bottom bracket opening, if I remove the housing to seat the cable outer the housing will not go back into the frame, anyone else have this trouble and if so can you let me know how you did it 

I had the same problem on my VB 177. I sanded the endcap of the cable housing down a bit til it fitted

Yes, judging from your pics, there's probably enough room to adjust the preload if you just cut the steerer flush with the stem. The expander plug will then sit on top of the steerer and take up another 1-2mm and there's about 3mm of clearance for compression, which should be enough.

Do keep in mind however, that people had problems with headset play on this particular frame. I think most guys use micro spacers between the upper headset cap and the upper headset bearing. If you need to use one of those to eliminate headset play, that will require another milimeter or so of steerer length. Maybe someone else can chime in to answer that.

You are right - i forgot to consider the expander plug height. However, i checked again and the protrusion of the "stem cap" where the screw goes trough right in the middle actually does not sit flush with the top of the expander plug, but is formed in a way that it can go around 2 mm deeper into the expander plug. So coincidentally not considering both factors i would have gotten the right height still

How low you have to cut depends on how much clearance you need between your steerer expander plug and your top cap in order to compress the whole headset assembly. I dunno what that top cap looks like from the bottom and how far it protrudes into the steerer. But that measurement is critical. Cutting the steerer below the upper clamping bolt is definitely too short, however. Because that bolt is there for a reason and your stem will only clamp to the steerer with the lower bolt.

Personally, I prefer to cut the steerer in line with the stem and have one small spacer below the top cap, just for peace of mind. With one piece bars like this one however, this becomes increasingly impossible due to the shape of the top cap.

Thanks for your very helpful answer! When i posted my question i was not  even sure if the top "stem cap" (which is made out of carbon) is even capable of providing enough integrity to compress all the things together.

I attached another image showing the bottom and side view of the top cap. The distance between the two red lines is ~ 5mm. So when i cut the sterrer tube flush with the stem it would give me 5mm room for compression, which is probably ok. I could probably also just cut it 1 or 2 mm above the stem (leaving me with 3 to 4 mm) and it should be fine, right?

What you mention in the second paragraph is exactly what i would have done if i would have gotten a flat stem. Unfortunately i could not find anything for such curved top caps and stems...

Hi, i´ve just received this saddle (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-saddle-with-pu-wrapped) together with my Frame and other parts.
Just built the bike today and did not manage to do a ride, so what i can say is that it looks well made and fits the Seatpost-interface.
The "PU-wrapping" looks quite convenient but the overlay does not overlap the edge of the saddle and ends exactly where the thigh normally rubs past with each pedal. I'm afraid that this will rub on the thigh on the one hand and possibly also loosen after some time.

Will report more details as soon as i did some kilometers.

Thank's for the feedback! I also ordered the same one. Let's see how long it holds up. If the pu is getting loose i may as well try to print a new cover myself ;-)

That paint on the bottle cage mount looks really crappy... It looks as if they had to remove the original rivnut when painted, pulled some paint with it, and put a new rivnut in. It's very different from the other bottle cage mounting point in the picture...
It will be almost invisible when you put a bottle cage on there, but they should not have sent it to you like that...

Do you think I should cover it with some kind of paint? Basically, the frame is not painted at this location and therefore exposed to sunlight and water etc., right?

I ordered my frame on the 24th of february and it arrived on the 15th of march. I used DPD XBD shipping method in order to not pay any customs (according to Chris) to Austria. Not too bad i would say. Overall the frame seems to be fine but there are some scratches (see images). Would you say this should be expected if you buy a chinese frame or shall i contact velobuild about it?

Also, for anybody interested, I asked velobuild to provide some torque values for the frame. Here is what Chris replied:

Stem lock on fork 5.0Nm
Seat clamp lock on seat post 5.5Nm
Seat post lock saddle 8.0Nm

Cheers!

PS: sorry for the feed pic...

I wasn't aware you could chose different shopping. Mine says "EMS" on the invoice. The final delivery in Germany was done by DPD.

Apparently the shipping went through Belgium ans I didn't have to pay any additional fees other than the ~160€ that I paid to velobuild. Not sure if they are avoiding customs that way or if that already was included.

Nice one, paintjob looks very good, especially for that price!

Which shipping method did you chose to Germany? Did you have to pay any additional duties or fees?

Thanks and greetings from Germany! 

i asked chris and he said i should use xbd shipping to avoid any customs etc. (that is for shipping to austria, which is probably the same as for germany)