BB deboning can happen on any bike I have seen it on the big brands but obviously it may get handled better but for £500 its throw away so worth a punt IMO.                                               Geo chart saying 35c for clearance but this is still TBC

INFO:

The mold production sequence for the frames is: 54 → 56 → 52 → 49 → 58 → 61 cm.
Molds for the 54, 56, and 52 cm sizes are currently in production.
Orders are expected to open in 30 days, with shipping scheduled for October or November.

Lightcycling propose the same frame ( RF10 ) ?

Similar question. Thinking of getting this frame, but can't figure out what size frame I should get. I know i can change seatpost/handlebar later once I get a bike fit.

I'm 5'8". Is there any other measurement I need to do?

Based on your height, I would recommend a size 52 and probably a 0-degree seatpost (to be confirmed depending on your riding style).

Did anyone manage to put the two rubbers around the di2 battery and slide it in the seat tube?

Or should you just use only one and let the other side of the battery sit against the seat tube?

I put the two rubbers on and tightened it with a " colson ". Most of the rubber fits into the seat tube.

Tomorrow the Tour de France starts in my city. Lille is located near Belgium. I see that the first Tour de France took place in 1903. Note that the winner Maurice Garin covered the Lyon - Paris stage (467 km) at an average speed of 27.8 km/hour with a .......20 kilogram bike on roads whose quality is easy to imagine. That was just a thought. Have a good ride everyone

The 49 seems more appropriate to me. As pointed out, the reach is long. A seatpost with zero offset seems necessary to me.
Regarding comfort and position, there's so much to say. It's difficult to generalize.
Today, my bike is set up differently than when I first started. It took me several months to adjust it because it's not a matter of changing all the parameters (saddle height, fore-aft, etc.) at the same time. Then, it also takes a little time to draw conclusions. The test of time, and therefore the absence of pain, is a good indication.
Some people do posture studies and then ultimately return to their first iteration.
On the road and on the same route, the position changes: On the flat, on a hill, against the wind...

Would say it’s the valve as they are plastic and the rim holes are drilled by machine.

I sanded the top of the plastic valve very lightly so that the tube would stick out of the rim. In fact, the rim hole has very little tolerance; When the tube is in place, you don't need scoth to avoid the unpleasant noise of the valve against the rim when you ride.

Did you get a quote from Peter? I am 99% sure you'd have paid 100+ eur less for the same spec, and having to file valve holes is absolutely not normal.
For less than what you paid, i got a 1200g wheelset from Peter a few weeks ago, 33 wide, 50 deep.
For a silent hub, just put grease in the thing.

Reread the penultimate message in which I indicate that I put grease ( dans le truc ) but the noise comes back very quickly. I questioned Peter and his proposal was slightly cheaper (around 50 euros) but what do you want, it was my adventurous soul that guided me.Looking back, it was the 31.4 width that steered me towards these wheels.

To complete the information on DFS wheels, mine are 50mm deep (25mm inner and 31.4mm outer) with Wing 1420 steel spokes (ideal for the roads where I live).
- With 30mm GP5000 tires, the width is 31.8-32mm (pressure of 4.4 and 4.6 bars).
- The paintless finish is quite shiny.
- The hub (R2) is very noisy. Adding grease reduces the noise for about thirty kilometers, then it starts up again.
- The 50mm wheels with steel spokes weigh 1335g.
- The hubs are equipped with a preload system (see photo). This needs to be adjusted (very simple)