Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - PaxiH

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: July 15, 2024, 03:56:30 PM »
Quote from: rasch on July 14, 2024, 07:35:20 PM
Guys, I need your help because this is driving me crazy ahahha. I'm assembling this bike now and I get an annoying creack when turning the handlebar to the left. I lost count on the number of times I've disassembled the handlebar, even switched position of the cables because I thought it was the cables snapping/switching one over the other but doesn't seem so. Any ideas where this can come from?
Sound is pretty much this https://youtu.be/OLKpF25upFo?si=womLqIP3OmNugeRi just much less as i get only two snaps. It's like sth going outside and then inside again. Any ideas?

I think I'm  just missing taking the bearings off but not sure it can be from it as they are new and I put grease on them

I've installed mechanical group set with the internal cable routing handlebar. I routed the cables straight and without crossing. Also installed foam hose over every cable.

There is no noticable resistance in the steering but when I turn the bar more than like 80° there is a cable clicking sound too. Like one of the cables flicks over another cable and hits the frame or fork/steerer.

Not really a problem for me, since I'll never turn the bar that far while using the bike. Just want to share this experience with my first fully internally routed cables.

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 29, 2024, 10:03:44 AM »
Quote from: rasch on June 29, 2024, 08:40:58 AM
Got a question on the cable routing for those who are runing mechanical groupsets. Do you guys run cable housing  inside the whole frame?

Yes, I run a outer cable over the complete length and used the so called SRAM cable guide (even if it is Shimano FD) to end the outer cable inside the frame with a Shimano end cap. Then I used a cable liner to protect the open cable from dirt and water. See attached picture.

Inside the frame I also covered all cable outers with foam hose to avoid cable rattling.

I don't know if that is the best way to do it, but it works very well.

3
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 25, 2024, 03:52:01 PM »
Quote from: Stoemper on June 25, 2024, 10:04:17 AM
I asked Wendy to buy some extra headset spacers but postage is 39$  :o  anyone found any compatible spacers?

This set looks compatible: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQFEjbt

39$ for a few plastic spacers. What a bargain  ;D

4
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 23, 2024, 04:33:15 PM »
Actually I tried it right now and it was working after a few attempts. Seems like the fit of the axle washer in the frame cut out is really tight.

5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 23, 2024, 04:13:46 PM »
Quote from: DiabloMiles on June 23, 2024, 03:37:23 PM
I also have the problem. Now i lossen the rear axle 2-3 rotations and hit the non drive side rear stay once. Then i can unsrew the axle. The head/washer gets stuck in the carbon cutout.

Second problem is the water in the frame after a ride in the rain.
I will drill a hole under the BB to drain the water. Until now i drain the water with the rear derailleur hole. Last time it was 150ml of water. The water even damaged the BB bearings.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow.
I was also thinking that it must be something like the axle stucking in the carbon cut out. I think it is the same problem with my frame.

My frame have a tiny hole under the BB for water drainage.
Did your frame miss this hole?

6
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 23, 2024, 07:45:09 AM »
Quote from: Stoemper on June 23, 2024, 06:15:31 AM
Dunno I don’t see how it could be. But if you can unscrew it the rest of the way is through the wheel axel and that should be smooth bushing.

Yes, that is what I'm thinking too. I don't understand it to be honest. Maybe the fit on the non driver side for the head of the axle is to firm, so the axle head has gone into the carbon.
I really don't know ans don't understand why I can't tap it out.

7
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 23, 2024, 05:28:15 AM »
Quote from: Stoemper on June 23, 2024, 05:20:51 AM
Is it still in the thread? If it is not then the only way is brute force it out. Possibly the axle is bend?

No, it is not threaded anymore. I can even push the rear stays away from each other.

I've tried to hammer it with some Force. But the axle is not moving to the non drive side.

I think that if the axle is bend, I would face problems while riding?

8
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 23, 2024, 04:44:52 AM »
Now I have a problem with my frame.

I wanted to give it a good clean after yesterday's ride. But I am not able to remove the back wheel.

The axle is kinda stuck somewhere. It is turning freely, the threads in the derailleur hanger are fine. The wheel itself is moving on the axle. But still I'm not able to remove the axle from the frame. Never hat such an issue.

I can reassemble it and everything is fine. Just can't get the axle out. I've even tried WD-40 and tapping the axle with a wooden stick and soft hammer.

Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?

9
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 22, 2024, 06:26:52 AM »
Quote from: dinorello on June 21, 2024, 05:10:59 PM
I would definitely think about getting a brand name bottom bracket like wheels manufacturing.  The BB gets the brunt if the torque and you want it to have some longevity

I bought and assembled a cheap (13€) BB from Zitto from AliExpress. Thought about testing it and if it is bad replacing it with something more expensive.

My problem was, that the T47 BBs are pretty rare in the german shops and also very expensive.

So far the quality of the Zitto BB is seems great! The bearing felt good and the cranks are spinning very, very free and well. Also no play in the crank/BB so far.

So cheap must not be bad. But I only have like 300km on the bike yet.

10
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 19, 2024, 02:58:31 AM »
Quote from: some guy on June 19, 2024, 02:52:45 AM
is this the ferrari red LC offers? nevertheless looks great!

This is the Ferrari Red.

11
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 10, 2024, 02:18:52 PM »
Quote from: rasch on June 10, 2024, 01:45:45 PM
Ahahah I'll ask her tomorrow then about mine.
Still annoyed about having chosen the basic colour ahaha. In any case judging by the comments I should have painted it here in a local shop ahah.

Keep us updated

The paint look and quality in general is good and looks awesome. It is just the missing clear coat.

The best would be to clear coat it DIY when you have the possibility for that.

Or order as raw and get it to a local painter. But this will be mich more expensive. At least at my location.

I'm sure you'll still love the bike when it is build  :D

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 08, 2024, 12:29:02 PM »
Quote from: Thomas BT on June 07, 2024, 04:05:12 PM
Hi everyone, I'm considering buying the LCR017 but still uncertain about the color, has anyone seen what white chameleon looks like in real life ?  (Chameleon 7207 on Lightcarbon website)

Same advice as dinorello. Get a chameleon color because of the clear coat and better paint protection because of that.

I've not seen the chameleon white yet.

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 04, 2024, 12:11:50 AM »
Quote from: mux on June 03, 2024, 04:03:29 PM
Isn't that super scary? Not sure if I would feel safe 40mph downhill on  a frame I can flex with my fingers  ;D

It's not like you can flex it much but it is possible.
On the first kilometers I was riding a little bit careful because of that. Even if I've read that it is normal for many lightweight frames.
As the bike feels rock solid while riding it I now have no worries to ride at higher speeds.

14
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 03, 2024, 02:57:22 AM »
Quote from: Scrob on June 02, 2024, 09:08:22 AM
This looks very nice!
Which color did you use for the 'red' parts of the frame?

Should be the Ferrari Red like on my Frameset.

15
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)
« on: June 01, 2024, 03:36:29 AM »
Quote from: rasch on May 31, 2024, 05:55:27 AM
I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:

- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork

thanks

Hope that helps.

Viewed from side:
Downtube: 50mm bottom, 45mm top, width 60-40mm (from downside)
Toptube: 20mm bottom,  top 30mm, width 30-50mm (from top side)
Seattube: 45 bottom, 45 top (only the upper area)

Pages: [1] 2 3 4