I’ve noticed that most OEM manufacturers, including brands like LC, seem to be focusing mainly on road and gravel bikes at the moment. I’m not seeing many new full-suspension XC MTB models appearing in their catalogues. Just older models. I have their LCF918.

Do you think this is simply because the MTB market is relatively small, or could it be related to the complexity of developing and manufacturing full-suspension frames?
There seem to be a lot more potential tolerance and alignment issues with an FS frame - pivot, bearing seats, shock mounts, linkage alignment, chainstay clearance, etc.. I had an issue with my linkage but solved it with a new rear triangle and shims...

I’m curious whether OEM manufacturers are intentionally avoiding new XC platforms for this reason, or if there’s not enough demand to justify developing a completely new mould and suspension platform.
Are there any new full-suspension XC frames currently in development for 2026/2027?

I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats 
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.

I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!


I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.

Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.

How come you decided to cut your seat post? Judging by your build photo, your seatpost is not really that far in. How far in is it now?

I'm also going with LightCarbon's LCB-01HS, but with a matte finish. The frame will receive a full custom decal kit, with all graphics in YS877C metallic silver, sealed beneath the matte clear coat.

Since I couldn't find any real-world examples of a matte LCB-01HS frame, I spent quite a bit of time trying to visualize the final result. I used photos of a gloss LCB-01HS LCR018-D frame and several reference photos of a time trial bike in the same color. With those references, I created a series of Photoshop mock-ups and refined them with the help of ChatGPT.

Based on those references, we expect the matte finish to shift the appearance towards a darker petrol green, while still showing subtle blue and violet tones depending on the viewing angle and lighting.

Hopefully, the render below is a close representation of what the finished bike will look like once it's built.

Bear in mind that it may look slightly different from the reference photos. It can appear more green or more purple depending on the light, so it will not always look “perfect.”

I believe the latest photo and video added here show the matte LCB-01HS:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/73QB51TrpgSg2jQe9

Maybe they’ve improved the finish since last year so it's more consistent every time.

Which size did you order? I ordered and paid for a 56 with a custom paint job, also in June. Just sent an email today to ask if I can make some tweaks to the design. I think it should be possible sindce the mold for a 56 frame will be ready at the end of September. At least that's what I was told. Knowing myself, this probably won't be the last time I ask for some changes .

Medium size. I don't want to do any changes since I made an order, because that might just prolong it. Hopefully I can get it next month.
I went with the original paint job style half-half, but the bottom part is glossy raw carbon, while the top is LCB-01HS Chameleon - same as my LCF918
Also, no logo on the downtube, but smaller logo on the top tube. Attached concept with my current fully build.

I’m inclined to make an update post, as I felt like I left everyone hanging regarding my frame situation.

Anyway, since the last fix we did, I’ve ridden 61 h / 1,093.33 km / 26,535 m and so far, there have been no further issues.

The FIX was to add one shim between the middle piece of the linkage and one on the outer piece, so it sits directly on the bearing.
Once screws are now tightened from both sides, nothing really compresses towards the middle as before. The tolerances are now correct. It sits flush, exactly as it should.
The new rear triangle was still necessary though.

The shims are extremely thin, around 0.1 mm.

So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues, check how your spacers look on BOTH sides:
- Are they straight or slightly crooked?
- Is the spacing identical on ALL contact points?

If not, shimming can help, BUT it needs to be very close to perfect from the factory.
Linkage tolerances must be checked 100% by QC, and I’m confident they’ve taken steps to prevent this issue on future orders.
According to Jim, they made improvements to address this.
Heads-up to Jim & LC, professionals 👍

To be honest, I’m probably in the minority when it comes to how this bike is being used. I’m riding it at its limits, beating the hell out of it on very rough terrain and in harsh conditions, intentionally. This is my race bike.

I’ll post updates if anything changes.

What bottle cage are you using?

These are the bottle cages I’m using; they’re great: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006021142109.html

Sorry guys, I need to make another update. Yesterday I said everything was resolved, but unfortunately, it’s not.

My bike was at the mechanic for a quick check-up before the stage race next week (Wild Bear). He checked the bottom screws at 10 Nm (the suggested torque is 13 Nm).
Unfortunately, the crunching noise was there, which means the bearing was already damaged again.
Not as severely this time, but a few balls are toast (picture 1). I’ve done exactly 640km/12610m since the rear triangle was replaced.

This time the screw didn’t come loose, but you can see a bit of wear on one side of the screw head (picture 2).

Tomorrow we’ll install a new Enduro Max bearing, but with small washers on each side. I’ll make another post showing how that goes.
We don’t really have another choice because of the upcoming race and the fact that I’m riding and training on this bike weekly. I do have an Orbea hardtail as a backup, though we’ll see.

What I don’t understand is how others with this frame don’t seem to have the same issue. We literally replaced both the link and the rear triangle, and it keeps happening.
There must be something fundamentally wrong with the entire linkage/triangle design. I’m not an engineer, so I can’t say for sure what’s going on, but I assume the design puts too much stress on that particular part during riding.

I’ve sent a message to Jim to ask about my options.

Quick follow-up on the frame:
I’ve done about 600 km since the rear triangle was replaced, and I haven’t had any more issues. The bearings aren’t the problem (they’re original Enduro) as long as the tolerances in the link/triangle area are correct. So I’d say my issue is resolved. I’m really happy with the bike now. I fell this weekend hard during muddy race, hahah.

A friend of mine had a quality issue with his road bike frame (crooked and moving seatpost, plus a poorly machined thru-axle slot on the front fork), but he received a replacement that’s top-notch. They also covered all return shipping costs.
In the end, they do resolve everything, it just takes a bit of time due to shipping. You have to mention right from the start that you want the best quality control possible.
In the attachments, you can find photos I took today. The video is from a race that took place 2 weeks ago.