I just posted my very positive experience with the VB-R-066: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5485.0.html

It checks all your boxes except 35mm. You might be able to squeeze a smaller 35c tire, but it only has 3mm clearance on either side of my 32mm Conti GP5K S TR tires. That said, I do find tubeless 32mm tires to be a great sweet spot for mostly road with light gravel.

I've recently finished my VB-R-066 build, and I'm very pleased with the result. The total price for my build was right around $2500. Weight without pedals is right around 17.5 lbs. Here's the parts list:

Frame: VB-R-066 Disc, medium, custom painted by VB
Derailleurs and shifters: SRAM Rival AXS
Crankset: SRAM Force (gen1 with the separate spider and rings)
Chainrings: SRAM 48/35
Power Meter: SRAM Force
Cassette: Rival XG-1250 10-36
Chain: SRAM Rival flattop
Chaincatcher: Muqzi from AE
Bottom Bracket: AliExpress T47-DUB (86.5MM)
Seatpost: VB carbon 0 offset, came with frame
Disc rotors: Enlee 160mm from AE
Handlebars: RXL 42cm/44cm carbon (4 degree flare)
Bartape: Cinelli cork
Stem: Richey Switch 80mm
Upper headset: Ritchey Switch IS52 with 5-pack of extra spacers
Lower headset: VB bearing and crown race that came with frame
Expansion plug: Necco large
Saddle: Ryet 3D printed carbon
Pedals: NOS SpeedPlay Zero with spindles swapped out with AE aftermarket Ti 50mm
Wheelset: Yuan An YHG54-04D Ultralight with RD17 hub, XDR freehub, and Pillar 1423 spokes
Tires: Conti GP 5000 S TR 700x32, set up tubeless
Cages: random AE carbon cages
Decals: homemade on Cricut vinyl cutter

Some thoughts:

Dealing with VB was good with all communication over WhatsApp. Dealing with the time difference was a bit of a challenge, but I'm a night owl, so that helped. Took a couple of rounds to settle on the paint scheme. Even though we agreed on Pantone codes, they couldn't match the light green we agreed on. The first try was so off (much darker and more golden) that they agreed to start over, which I appreciated. The second version was brighter than the Pantone shade, but I didn't mind, so that's what they shipped. The repaint caused about a month delay. If you skip the painting process, you can probably get an in-stock frame in about a week. For me, the wait for the paint was well worth it.

I'm not an expert, but the frame and paint seem to be of very good quality. The fit and finish might not be up to Trek standards, but I'd have to be looking very closely to find any flaws. The ride quality is great IMO. Full disclosure, I have many bikes (Ti, Carbon, alu), and I can't really tell one frame from another performance-wise other than geometry. If you're looking for someone to comment on the nuances of frame flexibility and power transfer, I'm not your guy. I do think that the tubeless 32c tires that I run at 60 PSI on my road bikes provide so much suspension that vibration absorption from the frame is not super relevant. I'm about 5'10.5" and got a medium, which fits me great. I've configured it at the short reach/tall stack end of the envelope. There's plenty of room for more reach and less stack. The frame fits the 32c tires with 3mm to spare on either side of the tire.

I've built lots of bikes over many years and this assembly was very easy. This is my first foray into running the hydraulic lines through the headset, and it was no big deal. I decided to go with the Ritchey Switch system instead of the VB upper, and it worked with no drama. The fit was perfect with no gaps or play in the fork. I like that the semi-integrated routing between the stem and the plastic guide (similar to Deda Superbox and FSA SMR) allows for a little more flexibility in running the lines and experimenting with different stem lengths. The most difficult part of the assembly was finding the right tool for the T47 86mm BB cups. It's large and I didn't have that tool on hand. I ended up finding a used Park Tool BBT-47-16 for cheap on Amazon. The flange is very thin, so it's hard to maintain tool engagement, but I've engineered a DIY retention tool that worked great (the PT version is too expensive for me).

Love the Rival AXS drivetrain and find that it can be found for much cheaper than retail, making the price pretty competitive with the WheelTop and LTWoo options without the possible QA issues (though I am rooting for those guys).

I'm a little surprised that the VB-R-066 with its endurance geometry doesn't get more play. Folks seem to gravitate toward the more aggressive aero frames such as the VB-R-268. I like those frames in theory but just don't have the flexibility for that stack/reach ratio. As it is, I still have a bunch of spacers on the 066, though I'll probably lose a few over the next few weeks (didn't want to overcut the steerer before dialing in the fit). I have a tri bike for when I want more speed. The further forward BB in the TT/tri geometry allows me to get much lower/further forward despite my limited flexibility, but sometimes I just want to ride a regular road bike .

The wheelset from Yuan An is great. I started dealing with Leon but switched to Kelly when Leon left. The wheelsets take a while to produce, but no complaints. I asked Leon for the quietest freehub they offer, and he specified the RD17. Out of the box it was actually quite loud, but I lubricated the ratchet liberally with Dumonde Pro-X Freehub Grease, and that has tamed the sound without any engagement issues. It's now pretty quiet, roughly equivalent to the DT Swiss 16T 350 hubs on my other bikes (though I'm guessing if I packed those with the Pro-X they would be virtually silent).

Happy to answer any questions!

Looks like this would be the equivalent part if I wanted to opt for the fully concealed option within the Ritchey ecosystem: https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset

Based on you experience, I guess it would fit the frame. Thanks for your feedback!

Hi folks,

I'm planning a new build on a VB-R-066 disc frame. I'm planning to supply my own stem and handlebars. I'd like to stick with fully internal routing. I've searched this and other forums extensively, but can't quite find definitive information about what my options are.

It seems that the FSA SMR ACR system is a good and widely available option in the US. If I wanted to use an FSA SMR ACR stem, would I be able to use the stock Velobuild headset or would I need to replace the top headset with a FSA ACR option?

If I do need to replace the top headset, is this the correct headset to use?

https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr-std

If I replaced the headset, I assume the top cover for the FSA headset would sit flush on the 066 frame and then I'd use however many FSA spacers I need?

I'm new to fully internal routing, so thanks for helping me out. I'll post photos of the new build when I have the parts in hand.