Quote from: AJR75 on April 23, 2025, 02:14:29 AM
I'd be interested in this vid also if you still have please.

if you pm me your email I'll check - should have it saved somewhere

Thanks for the follow up replies.

I'm in the fortunate position of having quite a few spares - seatpost, saddle, bars, stem, wheels & cassette. Having swapped out the rear wheel and cassette together, for a longish ride this weekend and had no noise- I appear to have isolated it to the wheel or cassette.

Though I suppose it's possible that the through axle itself could have been the source - I usually torque that to 11nm so it shouldve been ok - but to make sure I could put the Elite rear back.

There's a short hill reasonably close to me, so I might make use of the extra hour in the evening to do some more tests this week

Quote from: SillyMochi on March 29, 2025, 05:47:24 PM
Does the noise appear constantly (i.e. while wheel is spinning) or only under certain situations, e.g. while pedaling, only on the downstroke on one side, while backpedaling, etc. - you get the idea

I'd need to double check by putting the wheel back on, but from memory it was on the pedal strokes on both sides and as I say definitely uphill in low gear. Freewheeling / back pedalling or pedalling on flat or downhill - no noise at all.

Quote from: Bigbobby1482 on March 29, 2025, 05:00:03 PM
Do you by any chance have an early 12 speed Shimano cassette on the edge wheelset? They had some issues https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=173692

.

The creaking wheel has a 12 speed ultra lightweight - Goldix cassette. The wheel I just installed has a 12 speed Shimano. So in this case if its a cassette issue - it'd be the Goldix one

Have a pair of these https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004767705476.html and the rear has started creaking after limited use. Rode them a few times earlier on with no noticeable issues and then been mainly riding another bike - with the rubbish weather here.

Rode them again recently and found the noise appeared - maybe they've just bedded in. Subsequently I've definitely isolated the noise to the rear wheel - by elimination I ruled out the seapost area, bottom bracket area or anything on the front of the bike. Proved it today by riding a different rear wheel with zero noise.

Noise happens when in a low gear and torquing - think slowly up a steep hill. No crashes, dropping into potholes or similar.

Suggestion of one of the other bikers I know was to lube the spokes. So I plan to put a small amount of grease where the spokes overlap and touch initially and see how that goes. If that fails then I guess I need to think of where the spokes, nipples and rim meet.

Anyone got any alternate thoughts / suggestions pls?
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Edit
Actually I haven't changed the cassette -  so that may be worth doing first or after lubing the cross spokes point?

Is that a tailfin rack copy on the bottom pic there?

Possibly but 2 bike fits incl an expensive one with a well reputed bike fit 'professional' and a couple of revisits to tweak without paying again - suggests to me the position is as good as its going to get.

I choose to ride unclipped to minimise knee pain as best I can and plan on riding until I'm too old.

As to whether I ride hard enough to justify a power meter - how hard is that?

Still interested in anyones suggestions that'd work with a GRX820 setup - I'd rather not replace the crankset but if that's a good or even the only option - let me know any thoughts there too pls.

Considering adding a power meter to my Giant Revolt with GRX 820 2x road set up - assuming that's possible?

I'm open to consider various options - so please suggest away.

Though any pedal version would need to be single sided and on the LHS, as I always ride unclipped & a flat pedal on RHS due to an old knee injury.

Currently a Wahoo user and happy there. On training rides I use a Polar hrm strap.

Quote from: Serge_K on October 17, 2024, 03:41:47 AM
I have found a 10$ adaptor for the rear, so i'm running 180mm at the rear, which is helpful, as it takes longer for the disc to overheat and scream.
The fork solution is proving elusive. An adaptor for regular shimano brakes (they're standard flat mount) is available for 10-15 eur, but it doesnt work with ltwoo. i tried

Are these the below Aztec adapters or are there others out there?
https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/aztec-adapter-for-flatmount-caliper-to-flatmount-frame-180mm-rear
https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/aztec-adapter-for-flatmount-calliper-to-flatmount-fork-180mm-front

Prefer AliE ideally - but if there are other non expensive options - I was hoping for <£10 including post. If that could be <£10 for both even better :-)

Quote from: bennytalent on January 31, 2025, 11:19:12 AM
Thank you, I knew there was a cleaner way for links and it looks like I can just cut off all the extra fluff and it'll still post fine.

I'll buy a handful of these in case one or two go wrong, but would you happen to know which option would be best for 700x32c tires? I'm thinking of erring on the side of caution and using the 80L as I want something maybe less vulnerable to punctures, or am I missing something obvious?

Those are referring to the different length of the valve stem - not related to the tube material at all

Edit - nvm - was being a numpty!

Quote from: Tijoe on January 23, 2025, 08:46:35 PM
Try it now, I didn't copy the last letter "L" in HTML

Yep all good thanks

Quote from: Tijoe on January 23, 2025, 10:22:36 AM
In the future, consider purchasing on of these. or similar.  I've had my ParK fork tube cutter ever since A-head stems became standard. 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807764585169.htm

Link not working for me

Quote from: amacal1 on January 22, 2025, 10:03:25 AM
If we're talking about the InBike gloves that I found to be warm, then yes they are a bit bulky. Not uncomfortable, though. I don't think I have an issue with the pad, specifically. Moreso just the overall fit and finish. I ordered the medium, which more most other gloves results in a fairly snug and comfortable fit for my hands. For Pearl Izumi, the medium is a nice fit. Even for Lameda, the medium/large is a nice fit. But for these, the medium is just bulky and rather loose, with extra long fingers. I'm not confident that simply sizing down would fix the problem, as it may also be too tight in other places. It's just an awkward cut and fit.

Actually, now that I think about it, my biggest issue is probably the fingers. I have no dexterity to interact with my bike computer, or even to accurately shift on my road shifters. Hell, I rode with them yesterday (snowpocalypse here in the US south) on my mountain bike and found thumb shifting awkward.

In short, they're warm and I like them for that, but just know that they're bulky and awkward fitting.

Thanks for the follow up feedback - I'll hold off for now

Quote from: amacal1 on January 19, 2025, 12:54:23 PM
Yep. Those are the ones. Amazon price wasn't much difference. I can say they were nice and warm, not very breathable so my hands did sweat some at or above freezing temps, but I guess you don't want "breathable" in a super cold weather glove.

My Lameda gloves arrived. I just rode with them this morning. I'm not impressed. The fit was good and they look nice, but they were not very warm, not very windproof, and the padding for the grip and bars was mostly cosmetic and provided no real cushioning. My hands were quite cold and the temps were above 5deg C a( 40deg F) and sunny. Pretty sure it was about 7deg C and my hands were still cold.

They do sound good but your earlier comment re them being bulky and the AE pics seem to show the palm pads being both thick (3mm is mentioned but it looks more to my eye) & 90 degree angles at the edge - I wonder do you find them awkward as you move your hands around on the bar?