I have pretty nasty Raynaud's syndrome so Pogies are pretty much mandatory for me if it is much below 40F.   I often stuff an XL adhesive "hot hands" pouch in each one as well.  The combo of a thinner glove + pogies + the hot hands packet works better than any one glove i've come across aside from obnoxious ski gloves.    I may try some heated grip elements on my MTB grips this year or grab some heated gloves for road&mtb.

the one big disadvantage of hot hands as you know is they require oxygen, so once you get them going/saturated and throw them inside a neoprene overboot they poop out and don't last nearly as long as something electric. it's more of an emergency item, not a sustainable solution for long rides.

I'm starting lean towards 3 bolt direct mount cranksets with 2 pinch bolt non-drive crank arms. They have both chainring/power meter flexibility, while being compatible with different size bottom brackets.

Like for example T47 has several variations with 68mm external cups, 86.5mm internal cups, and 78-79mm internal/external cups for bottom brackets! That's not including variations in 24mm/29mm/30mm spindle diameters. I guess the actual interface is now standardized, but under that standard are a plethora of different sizes.

yes, I prefer the Shimano pinch-bolt/axle pre-load cap arrangement as well b/c you're not stressing that cap threads much. The interface that Evosid selected (can't tell if it's legacy FSA or maybe an earlier version of the current Rotor axle) invites you to strip out or break off the hollow bolt b/c you have no idea when you hit the end of the splined section. At least SRAM had it tapered in the same way that square taper works. Not having any torque settings listed isn't helpful, either.

Can someone help me for the right DT Swiss Freehub XDR Body for this hub? And should i also change some other parts on the rear hub like Bearings or the spring or the ratched system?


https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004904398758.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.337.95615c5fDrduz1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

KOCEVLO Stern Ratsche Straße DISC Bremse Straightpull Hub 100x1 2/142x12mm 24 loch Licht 270g straße 60T Ratsche Naben ENDURO

Would be great if someone can help me or has experience with this rear hub.

I bought j-spoke kocevlos as well and honestly regret it now - they don't even have model numbers listed. There's a post above that has a link for replacement end-caps and drivers for goldix hubs which kind of look equivalent, but you have to really look at the drawings and dimensions for your hub body to have at least some confidence prior to purchasing.

had the same thing happen to me - had to grease both axle bolts and re-torque them. it sounds like they're going to snap.
didn't even think of the DS bolt initially b/c I'm so used to bonded Shimano and Sram cranks, then i was like "oooh, removable axle, how cool"

I have this crankset and it's a bit weird. Crankarms are bent in towards the frame a which reduces the q-factor but it's nearly impossible to set up with a front derailleur since the crankarm is rubbing on the derailleur cage in a big ring. After I installed it on my gravel bike with 1x it turned out that the crankarms are rubbing on the chainstays

can you add some spacers? AE spindles are usually wider than 68mm std anyway

your chainline will be closer to the highest gear by a few mil, so your granny gear might get a bit noisy. if it bothers you too much you can always space the driveside crank arm out a bit and get a chainring w/more offset.

Just follow all the steps to protect your battery cables like dielectric grease and liquid tape/rubber cement. Also quality batteries should be used as well. My ER9 groupsets have worked well, but with a few hiccups.

I'm also liking the liquid mask goo for this - very easy to deploy in the right places

Very interesting, really lookes like a carbon frame. They got much better at welding AL, it seems. For a super budget build, it makes sense.

I think they've always been good at welding, it's just that someone decided that alloy frames can be sold for a premium is they add more shaping to make it look like a CF bike. I don't think there was much in between $50 basic tube Al and $500 CF frames until more recently.
hydroformed OEM alloy frames will probably always be a bit lighter b/c reducing welds means thinner tubing.