I like where gravel frames are heading. Tire clearance and a T47 BB are a lot more appealing to me than chasing a few extra grams.

I am very tempted to buy a Tideace GV201 or TanTan GR201. Plan to build it with a road groupset 2x on it and use it for everything road race, grouprides, cx races and bike touring. I wanted to know peoples experience with the max 2x chainring they could fit, any official data or experience. Also what kind of spacers are needed to make this fit, do these spacers make the chain to bent in certain gears etc. Going to be my first bike build and this is one of the main concern I have. I have seen many people online complain about multiple cranksets rubbing on the frame, even when they are smaller than the prescribd max(53T in 2x). I want to fit atleast 52t, ideally 53.

Also please share any advice on TanTan vs Tideace, paintjob selection, delivery experience to Europe/France, good deepsection wheelsets

I use my Tideace for gravel and also for road Ultra/bikepacking.
I have sram force cranks (road model,not wide) with quarq spider and rings 50/34, without problem or any special spacers needed.
With 11speed di2 GRX and 11/40 XTR casette, it is perfect gearing for road, bikepacking and gravel.
For road I use 35mm Michelin Pro5 tires.
For Gravel Tufo thundero HD 48, with enough clearance to FD so I think that 50mm would work without problem.

I use mine on the road with gravel tires regularly. Recently put the new SILCA RCG1s on it and took it to my local Tuesday smash fest.

This bike rides like a dream. See my post history for the build, only change is that I've dropped the TB for RCG1s in 50mm.

I am planning to build a bike based on the Tantan GR201 frame. I have already ordered most of the components, and the frame itself is currently on the way.

I have been reading through this very informative thread and have found lots of useful information and inspiration.

There is just one last thing I am still unsure about, and I was hoping someone here could help.

I plan to install hydraulic brakes and a 2x11 mechanical drivetrain, along with the Tantan integrated handlebars. I fear that fully integrated cable routing with all the tight bends might negatively affect shifting performance, so I would like to route the brake lines fully internally and the gear cables semi-internally. Has anyone built a setup like this?

I don't know if I would need a complete headset with spacers or just a top cover with holes for the cables to enter the frame. Ideally, I would like to install some split spacers for easier stem height adjustment. I don't think I've seen a setup like this in the pictures shared in this thread yet.

I have seen references to ACROS and Deda systems here, but I am not sure which models fit this handlebar or if I would need to make any modifications.

Can anyone recommend the right components?

The frame arrived today! After looking at the spacers, I realized that what I was trying to do isn't possible at all (which is probably why no one replied).

The integrated spacers are much wider than the steerer tube to make room for internal cables, leaving no space on top of the headset cover to route two cables externally. Alternatively, if I use standard round spacers, there is room on the cover for external entry, but no way to route anything internally through the handlebar/stem. As you can see, you've got a newbie at work here!

So, let me reframe my question: For those of you in this thread who have already built a 2x setup, have you noticed any degradation in shifting performance due to running four cables internally with those tight bends?

As for semi-internal routing: my frame didn't come with a headset cap for semi-internal entry. What would you recommend instead? Would something like the FSA No.69 SRS work?

If I go with the FSA, I understand I'll need to swap the bearings since the FSA ones aren't 45°/45°. Does this headset include rubber grommets to prevent water ingress through the ports? Also, would I need to use a different compression ring than the one supplied with the frame?

Thanks again for any insights!

I'm running my FM336 with all internal cabling and a mechanical 2x setup. I only have 220 miles on the bike so far, but shifting has been crisp. I'm using Shimano Optislick cabling, which may be helping it stay smooth.

Quote from: frewster on September 18, 2026, 12:36:19 PM
I'm running my FM336 with all internal cabling and a mechanical 2x setup. I only have 220 miles on the bike so far, but shifting has been crisp. I'm using Shimano Optislick cabling, which may be helping it stay smooth.

Thanks for the feedback frewster! That's encouraging!

Does anyone have experience with TanTan's warranty process? While doing some maintenance this morning, I noticed a crack around the drive-side bottom bracket. The bike was built up earlier this year and has only logged around 2,000 km so far.

Teake

Quote from: Teake on September 21, 2026, 05:14:37 AM
Does anyone have experience with TanTan's warranty process? While doing some maintenance this morning, I noticed a crack around the drive-side bottom bracket. The bike was built up earlier this year and has only logged around 2,000 km so far.

Teake

that looks like a chain drop damage

Yes definitely not a crack, only light chain drop scratches.

Hi, I'm choosing a gr201 frame for the girl, see that the minimum s, she's 155 tall, will be a big one? So we're watching g028, but like it's going to be big too? Anyone buy with this height?

I'm looking for some confirmation about my headset and stem choice:

Headset: FSA NO.55R 1.5" / 558 ACR

Stem: FSA SMR ACR

Questions:

• Has anyone used this combination on this bike? Does everything fit well?
• If I understand correctly, one of the bearings of the FSA headset won't be the right size. What's a good USA source for the correct bearing?

Thank you.

Top works good with FSA ACR but for the bottom you need a 52x40 45/45 bearing due to integrated crown race. FSA uses 45/36.