I've been struggling for quite a while to find suitable chainring bolts for my Magene power meter together with GRX chainrings.

The problem is that the holes are quite narrow, so the sleeves (nuts) need to be very short. Most standard options don't really fit properly.

Right now I'm using the typical slotted sleeves on the backside, but honestly, working with them is a nightmare. Swapping chainrings is a real pain because you can't properly hold or tighten them.

What solutions are you guys using for this setup?

I would strongly prefer sleeves with an internal hex (Allen) or external hex so you can actually torque them properly.

Can anyone recommend suitable chainring bolts for a Magene P515 PM with GRX chainrings? I have the issue with both original Shimano chainrings and aftermarket ones (PassQuest).

Any help or specific product recommendations would be appreciated.

Quote from: oker_s on October 02, 2026, 07:33:33 AM
I would strongly prefer sleeves with an internal hex (Allen) or external hex so you can actually torque them properly.

I also struggled with titanium bolts I bought for my fake Alugear (Ryet) chainrings. I got this adapter, which I haven't yet used, but this might help.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004346942901.html

Quote from: Dan S. on October 02, 2026, 08:30:31 AM
I also struggled with titanium bolts I bought for my fake Alugear (Ryet) chainrings. I got this adapter, which I haven't yet used, but this might help.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004346942901.html

I actually ordered the nuts and bolts from Alugear and have not had any noise from my P515 so far. Hoping that stays that way.

Ive got about 4000miles on a Teo + P515 and have used several chainring combos. The 50/34 it came with, 1x PassQuest AXS 50t Narrow Wide, and most recently 2x Litetech Aero 52/36 none of them creak. Just my experience.

Odd question, but does the Magene PES crankset/spider work with any different brand left crank arms? Would a Senicx PR3 left crank arm work?

Anyone know if there will be any significant 11.11 or Black Friday sales for the P515? I'm looking at the TEO crankset.

Currently on Ali, there isn't much of a discount (if at all) and the Magene site and Amazon show regular prices still.

Quote from: ChocoLateBN on November 07, 2026, 09:33:53 PMAnyone know if there will be any significant 11.11 or Black Friday sales for the P515? I'm looking at the TEO crankset.

Currently on Ali, there isn't much of a discount (if at all) and the Magene site and Amazon show regular prices still.

Well i got the 515 PM with 170mm cranks (regular, not TEO) on Ali on 11.1 the beginning of the sale, and the cost was $218. MSRP is 299

Quote from: miker.the.biker on November 08, 2026, 01:39:21 PMWell i got the 515 PM with 170mm cranks (regular, not TEO) on Ali on 11.1 the beginning of the sale, and the cost was $218. MSRP is 299

Nice. Was it from the official shop? The TEO set from them doesn't have 160mm cranks for me but other shops do.

Currently struggling with Magene to replace the crankarms on a p515 that started creaking.
even after providing boatloads of photos, videos, info, etc... they have just denied my request for a replacement, while they did replace it for another creaking p515 in the past.
Given that the design of their cranks is clearly flawed (check all of the people having the same creaking cranks in this thread) and they now don't want to honour warranty, I think we should stop with the positive recommendations this crank receives.
That being said, anyone know of any other crankarms with which i can use this spider powermeter? I know the geoid pm500 uses the same spider to crank interface, but afaik you cant buy these crankarms separately. (they are the senicx pr3, but those that you can purchase use a sram 3-bolt spider to crank interface)

Are people have creaking issues with the teo cranks or just the aliminium ones?

184euros with the 11/11 sale. Was hard not to buy one. Also got a DPD tracking number within an hour of placing the order. Very exciting!

I too have the creak, well I had it. I ended up taking EVERYTHING apart, greasing, re-torquing, and something fixed it.

I actually have dual sided flat and SPD pedals, think it was the SPD pedal clips rubbing against the SPD cleats, as there was no sound AFTER regreasing everything. But I rarely used the flat pedals except while commuting, and I don't recall noticing it.