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Epic Evo Clone

Started by Flo7, September 09, 2022, 12:56:11 PM

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akuutti247

Hey

I put CAPGO OL silencing foam on the cables. Figured out it was easiest to do when the cables enter the bottom bracket area, put the CAPGO on and then slide towards the upper hole in the frame. Two cables go nice, the third is challenging.


darkening

My cables doesn't rattle at all without any foam.

monocongo

I cut my chain too short, then when a friend was helping me install the derailleur we couldn't get the B-screw adjustment right, and instead of realizing that the chain was too short causing the problem we assumed it was still too long and cut out another couple of links. Yes, we're amateurs.

How can I avoid doing that again? I followed a Park Tool video on how to size the chain, but maybe this frame needs a little different approach to find the right chain length. I have the large size of this frame and I'm using a 30T chainring with a 10-51 cassette (Shimano XT 12-speed drivetrain) -- how many links do I need to remove from a fresh 126-link chain?

Another chain-related question -- when the chain is on the largest cog the chain line looks to be at its limit, too far really. I might need to use a spacer between my hub and my cassette to bring it out. Did anyone else need to do this to get a reasonably straight chain line toward the larger cogs (inner cogs) of the cassette? I'm using a new DT Swiss 240S hub with Shimano XT cassette.

BTW the derailleur hanger shipped with my frame was wonky and needed to be bent quite a bit. So if you're like me and can't get your derailleur to work as expected then try checking that. Am I likely to get a better result right out of the box with an official SRAM UDH (vs the Airwolf part), or is this maybe because the frame is not square at the dropout and I'll need to do this again if I ever get a new derailleur hanger?

ftajiri

Quote from: monocongo on December 18, 2023, 09:34:56 PM
I cut my chain too short, then when a friend was helping me install the derailleur we couldn't get the B-screw adjustment right, and instead of realizing that the chain was too short causing the problem we assumed it was still too long and cut out another couple of links. Yes, we're amateurs.

How can I avoid doing that again? I followed a Park Tool video on how to size the chain, but maybe this frame needs a little different approach to find the right chain length. I have the large size of this frame and I'm using a 30T chainring with a 10-51 cassette (Shimano XT 12-speed drivetrain) -- how many links do I need to remove from a fresh 126-link chain?

Another chain-related question -- when the chain is on the largest cog the chain line looks to be at its limit, too far really. I might need to use a spacer between my hub and my cassette to bring it out. Did anyone else need to do this to get a reasonably straight chain line toward the larger cogs (inner cogs) of the cassette? I'm using a new DT Swiss 240S hub with Shimano XT cassette.

BTW the derailleur hanger shipped with my frame was wonky and needed to be bent quite a bit. So if you're like me and can't get your derailleur to work as expected then try checking that. Am I likely to get a better result right out of the box with an official SRAM UDH (vs the Airwolf part), or is this maybe because the frame is not square at the dropout and I'll need to do this again if I ever get a new derailleur hanger?


the chain lenght can be solved with another powerlink in the chain... not the best look, but works

about the chainline and udh, i had solved, in my case, i use a xd freehub, using a xdr freehub.. the xdr with spacer play the cassete must near to udh, and corrected the chainline ... in microspline I don't know if put a spacer in freehub is will fit perfecly.... the chain stays 1.5mm from udh 

monocongo

Here is the finished build, photo from my first ride.

ilyamaksimov

What real BB drop on a 100mm fork? and real angle fork?

michael_pappas

It looks like all of the airwolf frames have an "evo link". I haven't been able to figure out quite what that means. I'm also seeing some reports of 190x40mm shocks and 190x45. What is the consensus there?

Kactusdog

Quote from: michael_pappas on January 19, 2024, 01:38:08 PM
It looks like all of the airwolf frames have an "evo link". I haven't been able to figure out quite what that means. I'm also seeing some reports of 190x40mm shocks and 190x45. What is the consensus there?

If you follow the questions, conversations, and photos from the first couple of pages here, everything will be clear.

Santurzano

#308
Hi, any news? I'm going to buy one on awst.

kfelk

Quote from: johnnydamage on August 10, 2023, 06:26:20 PM
Frame finally showed up. Looks good to me!

Which seller did you purchase from that you got all of the decals? or was that done after?

monocongo

Can anyone provide a source for replacement hardware for the frame pivot points? I've been riding my build of this frame for a couple of weeks now and I can't find where it's squawking, the noise is driving me nuts. I've read that you might need to check and/or replace the hardware on these Chinese frames for safety so that's what I intend to do and hopefully, it'll eliminate the creaking sounds. The shock mounting bolts already show signs of rust so I should probably replace those as well for peace of mind. Also, how can I determine the torque settings to use? I'm not confident about any info I might get from Airwolf, but I guess that's part of this adventure.

Ludo

I know for my built for torque specs I used a lot the repair manual from original frame design company (Scott), maybe the same exist for your frame. A quick search I found this:
https://support.specialized.com/epic/en/service-maintenance/manuals-technical-information

darkening

Quote from: michael_pappas on January 19, 2024, 01:38:08 PM
It looks like all of the airwolf frames have an "evo link". I haven't been able to figure out quite what that means. I'm also seeing some reports of 190x40mm shocks and 190x45. What is the consensus there?

If you have 190x40mm Sidluxe, then you can simply change its travel to 45mm. It can be done by just removing a travel spacer.   I've done that(volume token is also removed), and it rides better for me.

I think, that for leverage below 2 (this frame) biger aircan volume is better. Otherwise it's almost impossible to get full travel without excessive amunt of sag.

darkening

Quote from: monocongo on April 02, 2024, 08:06:46 AM
Can anyone provide a source for replacement hardware for the frame pivot points?

Bearings:
688 2RSV MAX Bearing 8*16*5 mm 4Pcs
6901 2RSV MAX Bearing 12*24*6 mm 2Pcs

For bolts, you can buy any 8mm bolts and trim them to required size.

Mo/RAD

Hi All, been following this thread for a while- saw this on Aliexpress- Looks like maybe they have actual evo linkage now?