Coming from a 696 and wanting some more clearance and descending confidence. A little sad that it seems this frame can't do a RaceKing 2.2". The plan was to supply my own fork that can take a 60mm from WINOWSPORTS that has a 410mm A to C, so a little more slack and upright, i'm tall w/ long legs... so I welcome the stack height lol.

I have been trying to justify this as my next frame over an Epic HT with short rigid fork. But looks like the drop bar Epic HT will have to be the ticket.

Hi all,

I bought this fully internal frame too and built it up with an Shimano GRX 820 (1x) mechanical groupset with the 10-51 cassette. The build went really easy until I got to adjusting the deraileur...
I can't get it to work properly... It shifts very inconsistent.

Is there anyone with tips to get it to work properly? (Maybe a youtube video I haven't found yet) I am affraid that the cable is routed to tight through the frame I used the deraileur outer cable completely through the frame and handlebar.

Thanks in advance...

Unfortunately I don't have good news, hopefully someone else has some solutions.  The main issue is the bend in the handlebar, so an option could be to use a normal stem/handlebar (or externally routed one piece handlebar) and run the cables through the headset at a shallower angle.  Maybe there's a type of cable and/or housing that has less friction for tight bends, or a lubricant that can help.  I could never get mine dialed in so I went AXS.

Thanks for your reply... I think i'll go to my lbs to let them fix it... If it needs another handlebar I'll go for that.

Hi all,

I am about to pull the trigger on this frame for my "all-road" bike (i.e. with 2 sets of wheels).

Now comes the question of the groupset : I definitely plan to go 2x (probably 50/34) b/c that is what I have now and clearly 1x won't do for my use case.
But I am a bit afraid of routing a hydraulic 2x groupset fully internally.

Who has done it? How would rate the installation: easy, doable, painful, should I just forget about it and go di2/AXS?

I have had some issues with routing gear cables into the 707 and 1056. The plastic port near the bottom bracket seems to require routing half the housing down one way then half or so the other way (back up). I did manage hto drive in a housing all the way through but I'm not hugely impressed with the way the cable comes through to the rear mech. I have experienced poor shifts. I am thinking of removing my GRX 800 2x and trying an LTWoo eGR group.

Hello Carbonda 707 fans.
I've got one ordered, what is the quality like of the seatpost hardware?
Worth upgrading?

And how have most people found the brake mounting areas, do they need facing?

Thanks

Quote from: ollyman on July 21, 2024, 01:51:03 AM
Hello Carbonda 707 fans.
I've got one ordered, what is the quality like of the seatpost hardware?
Worth upgrading?

And how have most people found the brake mounting areas, do they need facing?

Thanks

The seatpost hardware s functional, but not great. I found it was a bit fiddly to get it set up but it worked.


I didn't face the brake mounts. I've found the GRX calipers are very sensitive to alignment, so maybe that would have helped?

Hi all,

Also before ordering I had completely forgotten the question of the aerobars, which I would really like to give a try to.

I am guessing (and Wing is telling me) that the CGB02 are not compatible with aerobars; which makes sense.
But then I found https://www.controltechbikes.com/products/item/417.html and I thought that maybe there was a way to make it work with a one-piece aero cockpit?
[edit] there is also this kind of mount which could work https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006263236960.html ?

There is also the option to use the more standard CGB01 or CHB003, but I really like the look of a fully integrated one-piece aero cockpit 
(or other AliX vendors; I haven't really leaned into handlebars topics yet)

Who here has installed aerobars on their frame ?

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of choosing the right frame size for my new bike, and I could use some advice. I'm planning to buy the Carbonda CFR-707, but I'm torn between the L and XL frame sizes.

For reference, I'm 189 cm tall (6'2.5") with an 86 cm inseam (34"). I'm leaning towards the L frame with a longer stem, but I'm not entirely sure if that's the best choice.

Could you help me figure out which size would be a better fit? Thanks in advance!

Quote from: FastAsFrick on September 16, 2024, 03:21:29 AM
...Could you help me figure out which size would be a better fit? Thanks in advance!

You can do some homework 
Take a bike you ride and compare it with the 707 here https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/carbonda-cfr-707-2023/

You will quickly see if a long stem will do the trick, and how many spacers you will have to add compared to your current bike.
If you don't have a bike yet, ask a friend so you can compare to something you actually did ride.

Firstly I apologize for my approximative English.
I finally finished the buildup of my new gravel bike.
If it may help, as I found plenty of useful information on this forum, here is my contribution.

The configuration of the bike is as follow:
•   Bike frame: Carbonda CFR 707 size L paint color RAL 7001
•   Frame protection: clearprotect all over the frame and fork
•   Bottom bracket: Shimano ultegra SM-BBR60
•   Thru axles: Carbonda
•   Front & rear shifters and brakes: Shimano GRX ST-RX600 and BR-RX400
•   Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-RX810
•   Front derailleur : shimano FD-RX810
•   Crankset : Shimano FC-RX810-2 31-48, length 172.5mm
•   Cassette: Shimano SLX CS-M7000 11-42
•   Chain : KMC X11EL
•   Shift cabling : cable housing Shimano SIS SP41, shift cables BBB speedwire BCB-36 and internal housing damper
•   Handlebar: Ritchey comp butano 44cm
•   Handlebar tape: Lizard skins DSP V2 3.2mm
•   Stem: Deda superbox 80 mm
•   Headset: Carbonda plus compression ring Deda DCR 45x45
•   Saddle : Selle italia flite boost gravel Ti 316 superflow
•   Wheels :
o   Rims : Mavic A1022
o   Hub : ZTTO R2
o   Spokes : sapim Race
o   Tires : Hutchinson Touareg reinforced tubeless 700x45
o   Disc brake: Shimano RT-MT800 160mm (x2)

For the assembly I had no specific issue except the difficulty to find the appropriate stem in order not to have a huge gap just above the frame. I finally went with Deda superbox, which associated with the handlebar Ritchey Butano does permit to run the brake hoses fully internally in the stem and the handlebar, whereas the shift cable are semi integrated.
I run the rear derailleur cable fully protected in its hosing from lever to the rear derailleur.
I also protected the cable housing (shift and brake) with rubber damper to prevent any noise during ride.
I just have a little issue concerning the difficulty to adjust the brake caliper, as I still have very little disc brake chafing. I will see if after a little use I manage to adjust it properly otherwise I will have to grind the brake caliper mounting surface for the frame and the fork.

In the here above presented configuration and without pedals the bike weight is 9.325kg.

Quote from: Kactusdog on June 03, 2024, 03:55:42 PM
Coming from a 696 and wanting some more clearance and descending confidence. A little sad that it seems this frame can't do a RaceKing 2.2".

Did you try?
I've got Schwalbe Thunder Burts in that measure 52mm and there's room to spare.

Quote from: FullCarbonAlchemist on April 11, 2024, 09:54:11 PM
I'm using an alloy zero-offset post (Raceface Turbine) in my build so I guess carbon paste isn't as necessary but my plan is to use some on the back of the post and leave the contact area with the internal clamp dry.

I accidently fused an allow seat post with a carbon frame before. I would apply carbon paste (of some sort of grease) on the seatpost, just to stop them from "melting" together.

I'll address this in much more detail when I post my build thread after the front wheel is rebuilt and the OEM solid fork is on, but for anyone curious about the outcome of my suspension fork 707 experiment: it has its nice aspects, but don't.

The resulting seat angle is just too slack and rough on the knees/pedaling rhythm.

This was more of an issue for me than it might be for the average rider because of my full body arthritis and in particular knee issues that were significantly worse coming off last winter's fat biking and skiing (only once, but with heavy skis and long lift lines — keep in mind I can barely stand for long in normal shoes). In this process I've come around to believing slack seat tube angles are just bad, on all kinds of bikes.

I need to keep the suspension fork on my fat bike but there are similar issues with it and I'm hoping to get a steeper STA frame in the future. However right now my focus is on a downhill bike (Carbonda FM-1286) build for 2025 so I'm putting off stuff for the other bikes.