BTW does any one have pics of their front detailer cable.  to make sure I am doing it rigth... I dont thing I am.

Quote from: Queen of Skulls on June 15, 2024, 01:07:56 PM
BTW does any one have pics of their front detailer cable.  to make sure I am doing it rigth... I dont thing I am.

FD? I hate them. I hate them with a passion.

BTW the correct routing depends if you use mechanical or electronic shifting. For mechanical, use the hole down there at the backside of your seat tube. For electronic use the hole on the drive side of the seat tube below the FD mount (the one I have covered with rubber cover in the picture).

Aaaand the best is SRAM electronic. No holes, no cables, no problem.

Late to the party, but it gets a lot of compliments haha

Those wheels though

Did you paint them yourself?

Quote from: neobiker on July 18, 2024, 03:52:06 PM
Late to the party, but it gets a lot of compliments haha

Sick!!

Quote from: SillyMochi on July 18, 2024, 04:32:15 PM
Those wheels though

Did you paint them yourself?

No, I bought them from Superteam on Ali, I ask them if they could paint it as well. I am hesitating with an ice break silver / white for my next pair from light carbon xD.

I know it just makes the wheels heavier, but I like the wow effect xD

Hey all! First post here.

I wanted to know if anyone who bought their 218 from VeloBuild had any issues with the integrated bars cracking? I bought my frame in October of 2023 and built it up over the winter/spring. I have < 500 miles on the bike and today on a casual 45 mile ride I noticed that the left side of the bar was wobbly. Upon getting home and taking the tape off it was indeed cracked and basically about to break off.

I intend to get a hold of Chris to start the warranty process but I'm a little irked that the frame had a severe crack like this with so little mileage. For reference I'm in Chicago so I ride flat everywhere.

Has anyone used any good alternatives to the integrated bars?

Thanks!
Dave

I also have a 2023 frame with quite low milage. The crack is not in the same place as yours. VB sent me a new one without any problems but unfortunately not correct size. So far no issues with the new one (about 3-400km).

However seeing your bar now makes me thinking of buying a new one in correct size. Maybe this could be a better alternative?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005532056434.html

Quote from: delarune on August 06, 2024, 04:27:29 AM
I also have a 2023 frame with quite low milage. The crack is not in the same place as yours. VB sent me a new one without any problems but unfortunately not correct size. So far no issues with the new one (about 3-400km).

However seeing your bar now makes me thinking of buying a new one in correct size. Maybe this could be a better alternative?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005532056434.html

Is that the handlebar that cracked? Can you take some more pics? The area where mine cracked happens to be where the hole is for the internal routing is. There happens to be a weak spot there because there's a lack of material right there so on any upwards stress (with climbing) it starts stressing the area hard. The top side seems to be fine since it's all one piece. I was able to bear my weight down on it despite the bottom being cracked through. I'm debating on picking up a separate stem and aluminum bar.

Does anyone have any recs for aluminum bars that offer semi internal routing?

I just opened my seatpost clamping of the cracked frame after almost 10000km of use (see the story here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3650.msg58140.html#msg58140 ) to switch to a 0-setback post. I was quite worried if it would still hold after reassembly with the crack there since I rather wanted to ride then build the replacement frame. But the cracked frame is still working fine. I used only 2nm on the screws now and again tape and carbon paste.

After all the biggest issue was to get the old post out. The clamping collected so much dirt and sand during the winter, nothing wanted to move. I had to use a rubber hammer and some lever to get the clamping out. The metal parts had quite some rust despite lots of grease upon assembly.

Still loving the bike.

ordered mine in rim brake version and metallic silver paint job
Hope that i will not faced the seatpost crack problems

I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

Quote from: Avalius on September 11, 2024, 01:08:23 AM
I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

Afaik, VB sells standardized bars. If you order a cockpit it will be the same irrespective of the frame you order. The specs of their bars are online. By default there's no flare. When I ordered gravel frames from them I asked for flared bars and hate them. You can feel you're catching the wind, and when you go downhill on technical stuff I have my hands on the brakes anyway so I don't understand the appeal in flared bars.

Quote from: Avalius on September 11, 2024, 01:08:23 AM
I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

This frame is a carbon copy of the Dogma F. That includes the integrated cockpit. So yes, shape and measurements are the same. But it's not a 4cm difference between hoods and drops IME. My 40cm bar is around 38 on the hoods and 40 in the drops.

IMHO flared bars only make sense when the actual bar is very narrow, say like 350mm narrow. Then it flares out to around 400mm. So you have the aero benefits on the hoods and more control for technical stuff/attacking.

Would never get a flared bar starting around 420 and going to insane numbers like 500.