Hi all.

Seems like I am finally going to receive my Speeder SC-R55D this monday.

I have bought all the parts except the BB.

I find it very hard to make the final decision to match my Sram Red crank arms.

Currently deciding between:


- Tripeak twistfit ceramic - BB86 SRAM DUB

- Token Ninja TK4129QB BB86 DUB

- The standard Sram DUB

Am i missing anything good?

You aren't missing anything good because there is no such option for that combo. I would try cheap original SRAM dub bottom bracket, see how it works in your setup and decide afterwards  what to install.

Im considering the SC-R55D. What groupset did you go with? I'd like to go mechanical but since its basically a Tavelo Arow not sure if its supported. Also does it have the same D shaped steerer?

sorry I can't answer your question but following cause if I build, I'll build with either 30mm or DUB crank.

Quote from: HanzJWermhat on January 03, 2025, 02:36:27 PM
Im considering the SC-R55D. What groupset did you go with? I'd like to go mechanical but since its basically a Tavelo Arow not sure if its supported. Also does it have the same D shaped steerer?

sorry I can't answer your question but following cause if I build, I'll build with either 30mm or DUB crank.

Round steerer with FSA ACR headset as on photo:
https://i.imgur.com/tYaEtpk.jpeg (Photo borrowed from @precision6625)

I am running
Hoods: New Sram Red

Crankset: Sram Red Crank arms with Xcadey power meter and singe 50t Pass quest chainring

RD: Sram Force with Tripeak OSPW (Will upgrade to Sram Red XPLR 13-speed at some point

Quote from: dolph on January 03, 2025, 02:25:02 PM
You aren't missing anything good because there is no such option for that combo. I would try cheap original SRAM dub bottom bracket, see how it works in your setup and decide afterwards  what to install.

Also my conclusion after a bit of research. Found the Token Ninja for 70 USD might go with that.

Quote from: tgarne on January 03, 2025, 02:46:14 PM
Also my conclusion after a bit of research. Found the Token Ninja for 70 USD might go with that.

You're also not missing anything good because there is no good bearings for such small diameter. I have the same problem and decided to go for marginally inferior 24mm cranks and the same power meter. For now.

I would run the SRAM BB. I believe the design uses a 30mm ID, 40mm OD bearing which is pretty much what you would expect, but they have a cleverly designed middle section, rubber seal, and ID reducer to 29mm that gets you an extra seal in each direction. IMO, the design is worth it vs. a fancier bearing.

The crazy thing is that the SRAM BBs largely use the same bearing size across the range, and there aren't too many complaints about longevity.

I've been running the DUB for Shimano for a couple of years now. I've run the cheaper Wheels Manufacturing version with no center section which didn't last very long. I haven't seen it advertised for awhile now, so they may only be offering the expensive version now. I completely trashed the cheapie SRAM in a couple of months. I ponied up for a HSC ceramic BB which had lasted a year before it statyed clicking last month. Because of the cost, I tried servicing it, which did stop the clicking. Spins fine, but makes more noise bearing noise now.

went ahead and ordered an $80 usd Token BB, anyway, which I just installed tonight. It's got steel cups instead of plastic like all the other ones, but it's seems robust. The only minor issue, maybe, is that the cups seem undersized. I basically pressed the driver side cup in with only whatever force I could generate with my arm. Went in pretty smoothly with a firm fit, but definitely seemed a few micrometers undersized compared to all the other brands.


Any thoughts on the fitment issue with Token?

Just go SRAM, I had to do the same for a different build and it works great.