I paid the going rate on their website -- I think it was $160 to the US. It was a little cheaper in total than buying off Ali.

There was a little hesitation from their side when the tariffs hit on May 2 (or whenever that day was) but David eventually reached out informing me they had found a freight forwarder that handled shipments to the US with DDP. It took forever to get here (right under 30 days) but I'm glad to have it. If you have the patience, it seems like a relatively safe option, though ymmv. I also had no issues with customs or the FedEx delivery.

I did a 32km group ride last night with the fast guys dropping the hammer on the straightaways before checkpoint segments. The R088 was just flying! It accelerated fast on quick sprint runs, drafted like a missile when I tucked behind some of the taller riders and where it really shined was on short punchy climbs where I could easily stay in the big ring and attack the hill. What I'm finding is the bike can run with dual personalities depending on which wheelset I use making it quite versatile. My other road frame is far more stiffer, aero and can put down more speed, but it doesn't feel as agile as the R088 on rolling terrain.

On a side note, the other day I tried fitting 32c semi-slick gravel tires, surprisingly the rear still had a bit of clearance. The fork on the other hand, just barely fit 32c semi-slicks, but no mud clearance. So I would stick with at least 32c road slicks or 30c tires. 

Quote from: alfiomotrambo on June 03, 2025, 03:55:27 AM
Any advice on seatpost creaking? Torque it down to 6.2nm as seen on previous post and use carbon paste on seatpost and clap. Should i use some tape around the seatpost?

Thanks!

Hi guys! Any help pls?

Quote from: alfiomotrambo on June 06, 2025, 12:55:42 PM
Hi guys! Any help pls?

Are you sure it's the seat post that's creaking? I'd first check the cassette, crankset, chainring bolts, BB, etc. Unless it's slipping, I don't see why the seat post would cause the creak? It's usually something that's not tightened properly transmitting that creaking sound, making it sound like it's from the seat post. I just tighten my R088 seat post clamp bolt until it's firm.

Quote from: jonathanf2 on June 06, 2025, 01:09:26 PM
Are you sure it's the seat post that's creaking? I'd first check the cassette, crankset, chainring bolts, BB, etc. Unless it's slipping, I don't see why the seat post would cause the creak? It's usually something that's not tightened properly transmitting that creaking sound, making it sound like it's from the seat post. I just tighten my R088 seat post clamp bolt until it's firm.

Pretty sure, 'cause when I stand on the pedal the noise goes away...

Quote from: alfiomotrambo on June 06, 2025, 01:56:14 PM

Pretty sure, 'cause when I stand on the pedal the noise goes away...

Did you check the saddle screws if they're torqued properly? If nothing else seems to be the cause, perhaps a very thin strip of tap on the back end of the seat post and a small strip of tape on the clamp surface might help.

Finally found some time to build mine up.

But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?

What do you guys think?

Finally got chance to start my build today.

Although this is my first ever DIY road build, I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy it's gone so far (famous last words). Nothing overly fancy, just a 1x11 speed mechanical.
Have a fair bit to do still - install rear derailleur, chain, pedals, route cables through the bars, bleed brakes, index gears and then adjust saddle/seat post and should be g2g. Will try and get this done in the evenings over next week or 2.

Left ~2.5cm spacers under the stem so there's plenty of room for adjustment before making final cut.

Final build will be:

R088 56cm frame
Ultegra Shifters/Brakes
Ultegra Power Meter Crankset
GRX RD
48t Pass Quest Chainring (subject to adjustment)
11-42 Shimano Cassette
Shimano 160mm rotor f&r
Chaser brake mounts
Ryet 108g saddle
Ryet UNNO 40cm bar
Kalloy Uno stem
Onirii Pedals
KMC chain
Hunt 50mm wheels (spares for build, waiting on XM Carbon speed to arrive which these will be switched to)
Sworks turbo tyres.

Whilst I've not built this bike as a weight weenie build so far and it'll have some 60mm wheels from XM Carbon Speed on it in final form (albeit marginally lighter than the current Hunts) I'd like it to be around 7.5-7.8kg hopefully.

Quote from: Jouke on June 07, 2025, 01:56:58 PM
Finally found some time to build mine up.

But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?

What do you guys think?

I'd try an alternative BB first before trying to mess with sanding. Maybe if you can get a Shimano BBR60 Ultegra threaded BB and see if that will go all the way through? If you don't have access to one, did your Chinese BB come with spacers? I'd experiment with that to see if it'll take up the spacing gap.

Quote from: simo8891 on June 08, 2025, 09:18:55 AM
Finally got chance to start my build today.

Although this is my first ever DIY road build, I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy it's gone so far (famous last words). Nothing overly fancy, just a 1x11 speed mechanical.
Have a fair bit to do still - install rear derailleur, chain, pedals, route cables through the bars, bleed brakes, index gears and then adjust saddle/seat post and should be g2g. Will try and get this done in the evenings over next week or 2.

Left ~2.5cm spacers under the stem so there's plenty of room for adjustment before making final cut.

Final build will be:

R088 56cm frame
Ultegra Shifters/Brakes
Ultegra Power Meter Crankset
GRX RD
48t Pass Quest Chainring (subject to adjustment)
11-42 Shimano Cassette
Shimano 160mm rotor f&r
Chaser brake mounts
Ryet 108g saddle
Ryet UNNO 40cm bar
Kalloy Uno stem
Onirii Pedals
KMC chain
Hunt 50mm wheels (spares for build, waiting on XM Carbon speed to arrive which these will be switched to)
Sworks turbo tyres.

Whilst I've not built this bike as a weight weenie build so far and it'll have some 60mm wheels from XM Carbon Speed on it in final form (albeit marginally lighter than the current Hunts) I'd like it to be around 7.5-7.8kg hopefully.

Looking good and another mechanical R088 build! Plus this frame seems to attract the most lightweight UNO stem users! I also thought I'd cut my stem lower afterwards, but I got used to the higher stack and went with 34cm narrow bars. It's one benefit going with the separate bar and stem, since there are more narrow, standalone drop bar options.

All my parts arrived and I started the assembly today.

I am facing an issue with the expander plug and ahead cap, does anybody have torque recommendations?

I used the values from the SL8 users guide, 5 Nm for the expander plug. However, when I tighten the plug to 5 Nm and try to remove the headset play with the ahead cap, I have to over-tighten the cap bolt (> 3 Nm). I do not want to use excessive torque to remove all the play...where is the issue? The shaft clearance below the cap / inside the stem is 3-4 mm, so blocking the ahead cap should not be an issue. I assembled the bottom bearing, top bearing, racer ring, top cap, spacers and stem, so no part should be missing in the assembly.

Any torque recommendations for the UDH?

Edit: this is my first carbon bike, so I am very careful here. On all my other bikes, I would simply torque the damn ahead bolt down until the play is gone 

Quote from: MarMirZ990 on June 09, 2025, 01:28:09 PM
All my parts arrived and I started the assembly today.

I am facing an issue with the expander plug and ahead cap, does anybody have torque recommendations?

I used the values from the SL8 users guide, 5 Nm for the expander plug. However, when I tighten the plug to 5 Nm and try to remove the headset play with the ahead cap, I have to over-tighten the cap bolt (> 3 Nm). I do not want to use excessive torque to remove all the play...where is the issue? The shaft clearance below the cap / inside the stem is 3-4 mm, so blocking the ahead cap should not be an issue. I assembled the bottom bearing, top bearing, racer ring, top cap, spacers and stem, so no part should be missing in the assembly.

Any torque recommendations for the UDH?

Edit: this is my first carbon bike, so I am very careful here. On all my other bikes, I would simply torque the damn ahead bolt down until the play is gone 

With the expander plug, I torque until it's firm, but not overtightened. Maybe 5-6nm. Stem cap I never go above 5nm. In fact I find a properly measured stem spacer height to require very little tightening/torquing on the stem cap. I also never go above 4-5nm on stem screws as well. UDH I think is 25nm, but I usually just tighten until firm. If it loosens up, then use a torque wrench, but I haven't had issues on mine. Though make sure your FD hanger screws are secure. I'd use very mild loctite or at least some grease. My screws got loose the first month. Good luck and post photos when you get a chance!

Quote from: Jouke on June 07, 2025, 01:56:58 PM
Finally found some time to build mine up.

But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?

What do you guys think?

Did anyone else run into this problem? It's only the drive side for me. The non drive side goes in fine. SpCycle told me to sand down the bottom bracket. I did so but the problem remains.. any advice? Do you guys thibknI need a bottom bracket facing tool?

Quote from: jonathanf2 on June 09, 2025, 01:48:14 PM
With the expander plug, I torque until it's firm, but not overtightened. Maybe 5-6nm. Stem cap I never go above 5nm. In fact I find a properly measured stem spacer height to require very little tightening/torquing on the stem cap. I also never go above 4-5nm on stem screws as well. UDH I think is 25nm, but I usually just tighten until firm. If it loosens up, then use a torque wrench, but I haven't had issues on mine. Though make sure your FD hanger screws are secure. I'd use very mild loctite or at least some grease. My screws got loose the first month. Good luck and post photos when you get a chance!

I found the issue and, of course, it was stupid me.

The headset is delivered with two different setups, one for internal routing and one for external routing. The ,,racer ring", clamping the top bearing, has a different height for those two setups. The bigger one has to be used for internal cable routing.

Quote from: MarMirZ990 on June 09, 2025, 01:28:09 PM
All my parts arrived and I started the assembly today.

I am facing an issue with the expander plug and ahead cap, does anybody have torque recommendations?

I used the values from the SL8 users guide, 5 Nm for the expander plug. However, when I tighten the plug to 5 Nm and try to remove the headset play with the ahead cap, I have to over-tighten the cap bolt (> 3 Nm). I do not want to use excessive torque to remove all the play...where is the issue? The shaft clearance below the cap / inside the stem is 3-4 mm, so blocking the ahead cap should not be an issue. I assembled the bottom bearing, top bearing, racer ring, top cap, spacers and stem, so no part should be missing in the assembly.

Any torque recommendations for the UDH?

Edit: this is my first carbon bike, so I am very careful here. On all my other bikes, I would simply torque the damn ahead bolt down until the play is gone 

My bolt for the UDH says max 20nm.