I just received mine today. 500g for 165mm crankarms and power meter spider. The spindle is titanium. I have Shimano Ultegra R8100 52-36 chainrings that are 164g with the bolts.

Keen for any confirmation of compatibility with T47 (Trek Emonda)

Quote from: kilka on August 26, 2025, 11:04:54 AM
I'm very interested in those cranks, but I really do need more info before buying them, what is axle's length, how much does this powermeter goes back to bottom bracket, what is the diameter of powermeter's inner circle from bb side (I have t47 bb, so I want to check twice that the PM won't rub my frame and vice versa). Hope to hear these parameters from Sebastian.

Quote from: thompy on September 07, 2025, 08:00:18 PM
Keen for any confirmation of compatibility with T47 (Trek Emonda)

I don't have a T47 BB, but the 'well' in the spider/power meter where the BB sits is around 55mm diameter, but there is a rounded edge at the bottom so it decreases to around 53.5mm. The well is 4.4mm deep, so that's how much the PM overhangs the BB.

The axle is 107.3mm from the preload adjuster, minus 12.5mm for the depth of the splines where it mates with the right side.

Oh and you also get some axle spacers. 2 each of: 0.5mm, 1mm, 2mm. The instructions say to use a 2mm on each side. So that will give you some extra clearance from the frame.

Sorry for the late reply. Had a minor bike crash and broke my hand. That needed sorting out first.

So here's the pics with weights. Crank length is 170. I went down from 175 and I have to say I like it.
I completed two rides before I crashed. The crank feels VERY stiff. Mounting it was easy. I really like the aluminium preload adjuster. Feels very solid and easy to set up. I haven't done side by side data comparisons with my Assioma pedals but the readings I got from the PM seemed perfectly normal compared to the rides I do with my other PMs.

One big caveat, though: I found it close to impossible to thread pedals into these cranks. The threads in the crank arms almost felt like they were undersized. I eventually managed to mount the DS pedal. On the left crank arm I needed to chase the threads with a tool. And still it was hard to get the pedal in. I confirmed that it wasn't the pedals. I tried three different types of pedals. They all went smoothly into the Sram crank arms that I had on the bike before. Also the thread cutter was very hard to get in. It went totally smoothly and easily into my Sram cranks. So there's that. Buyers beware. I asked the seller if this was some kind of B-stock leftover, but he was adamant that it was properly QC'ed and sourced directly from Xcadey.

Edit: And there is another buyer on Aliexpress reporting the same issue. So it's not a complete one off, apparently.

Would be so nice if ot wasn't that heavy 😁

the cranks are roughly 380g including the adjustable spacer. There's lighter options out there, sure. Sram Red is roughly 340g without spider and chainrings IIRC.
I gotta say though, in terms of stiffness these are an absolute tank. I've had multiple variations of Red cranks and these feel stiffer. Which is unsurprising given that the cranks arms are also physically much fatter.

Sram Red is more like 305-310g.

Bigrock cranksets+ xcadey PM is 464g. Would be nice if Ventus could be around 450g, 504g is a little heavy considering how many lighter options there is on the market.

Anyway waiting to see how this looks on a bike. Send photos of finished builds lads

What tools were required for install other than torque wrench/hex heads - picture looks like something similar to a cassette lockring needed? Also, did it include pedal spacers?

Mine is supposedly in the country (UK). Will let folks know how I get on when it arrives (I have a T47 internal BB). Not liking the sound of having to chase the pedal inserts and was hoping to save a bit more weight over Ultegra (but ok for the price...)

(hope you recover from your crash soon Sebastian)

Quote from: ChiefWarmPaws on September 09, 2025, 10:21:46 AM
What tools were required for install other than torque wrench/hex heads - picture looks like something similar to a cassette lockring needed? Also, did it include pedal spacers?

Mine is supposedly in the country (UK). Will let folks know how I get on when it arrives (I have a T47 internal BB). Not liking the sound of having to chase the pedal inserts and was hoping to save a bit more weight over Ultegra (but ok for the price...)

(hope you recover from your crash soon Sebastian)

Hex Wrench. That's it. The lockring you see there doesn't need to be removed. It's just the integrated puller so the hex screw has something to work against when removing the crank.

Quote from: kubackje on September 09, 2025, 07:45:22 AM
Anyway waiting to see how this looks on a bike. Send photos of finished builds lads

There's a million different iterations of Sram Red. I got the wide axle BB30 one with removable spider in 175. That one is 340g. I also have the one piece BB30 version with the hollow carbon spider (exogram) and the shorter BB30 axle. That one is silly light. But it is also the second Sram crank that broke on me. The axle came loose in the NDS crank arm. I got another Force crank where the pedal insert came loose. Carbon repair shop told me to bin it as there's nothing you can do about it.

Anyway, I'm not losing sleep over 40g of crank weight.
Here's the pics you asked for.

Do you also have the problem that something on the crank screw is making noise, as if a washer or something similar is loose? To check this, you would have to unscrew the cover cap, but I don't know what tool I need for this. Does anyone have any ideas?

For clarification, I don't think it makes any noise while riding, but when you hold the crank in your hand and shake it, it makes a noise.

Well, the hex screw is obviously rattling inside the crank when you're holding the DS crank arm. It's trapped behind the locking/puller. As soon as you mount it and tighten down the screw, it's gonna be quiet.

No, no, that's not what I mean. Even when the crank screw is completely tightened, its still rattling.