XX1/X01 vs. 1x10/1x9

[brmeyer135]

It seems the XX1/XO1 are the desired drive trains these days.
Since those have come out many players have stepped up with alternatives to those.
Are the alternatives as good, or better yet, close to the qualities of the XX1 and XO1 drivetrains?
I am thinking cost, weight and performance.
From Vipassana, the weight of an XO1 is roughly 1213grams and costs ? ....roughly 900.00 +   performance: what all the others strive for
Any comparable set would probably keep the crank as those are roughly 270.00 - any other lightweight crank would just blow the budget
So, from there, the build out would probably be XTR from Shimano and X9, XO or more likely XX from SRAM
I will add to this later as I put some numbers together...but initial look, hard to beat XO1/XX1

[WorkingHPRs]

Don't forget X1.

Think I am correct in saying chain rings are interchangeable between XO1 and X1 but the XX1 uses a different BCD. The X1 1400 has a removable spider that can be replaced with the XX1 spider allowing you to use the XX1 rings.

Picked up a lightly cosmetically scuffed alloy armed X1 1400 off of ebay (someone wanted to switch to the carbon armed version on their Orange Five RS) for peanuts, really happy!

Seem to be lots of reports of the pedal inserts de-bonding in the carbon arms which is why I went for the alloy version.

[Vipassana]

Here are the weights (as measured by myself) for the X01 setup I have.  This includes everything but the cable housing and the 4 chain ring bolts.  Both of which should be less than 50g combined.

Total: 1518g (3.34lbs)

[Vipassana]

Also, there is really not much advantage to the XX1 spider bolt spacing compared to the X01.  The only difference is that the XX1 allows you to run as low as 28T.  With the X01, you can only go as low as 30T.  That said, many, many companies make a 28T gear that completely replaces the spider and allows you to run 28T on XX1, X01, X1, etc. all without a spider.  The disadvantage to this is the crank arm must be removed to change/replace the chainring with that setup.

I'm of the opinion that I will probably never need a 28T front chain ring.  30T should be plenty.  Since it's relatively flat around here, 32T should suffice.  But I will learn more as I ride.  As a point, you should probably just harden up! 



The XX1/X01 is light, but not that light.  The same carbon crankset can be used in other setups and that is where the real weight savings is.  The X01 1400 is 800g with 32T chain ring.  The comparable carbon XX1/X01 setup is 580g.  The cassette is also light considering it's size.  But it is certainly in the ball park of other options.

[brmeyer135]

Here is a vendor is selling 1x groupset for $400.00:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WARRANTY-COMPLETE-RACEFACE-RIDE-SRAM-X9-TYPE-2-1X10-CONVERSION-KIT-MTB-/171154948076?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d9a13fec
Cost is great
Performance ?
Weight - will have to put numbers together based on parts

[Oolak]

Here is a vendor is selling 1x groupset for $400.00:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WARRANTY-COMPLETE-RACEFACE-RIDE-SRAM-X9-TYPE-2-1X10-CONVERSION-KIT-MTB-/171154948076?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d9a13fec
Cost is great
Performance ?
Weight - will have to put numbers together based on parts

At first I thought the link was for a X01 group set for $400.. I literally couldn't click the link fast enough lol

Hmm. Interesting, but I think it might actually be cheaper to build up a Shimano SLX with Race Face wide/narrow ring. Not sure, have to add it up. Also, like you pointed out, not sure how those cranks and BB compare to the SLX cranks and BB as far as weight and quality, but I guess that would be a factor.

Either way, thanks for posting - gave me another option.

[Carbon_Dude]

I little disappointed in my XX1 setup today.  Replaced the original XX1 chain with a new XX1 one and immediately had some grinding on the front chain ring.

Put the old chain back on and everything was fine again.  Measured the chain stretch using a Park Tools chain wear indicator and found the wear to be less than 0.75 so technically the chain should not need to be replaced yet but I thought it would be better to replace it early give then XX1's high dollar rear cassette.  The chain has 700 miles on it, about 12 months of usage.  I lube the chain every ride with some chain wax and don't ride in conditions that are not all that muddy.  Trail is mostly dry 90% of the time I ride.

I had the LBS call SRAM CS and was told the XX1 chains are designed to have much higher wear characteristics but was given no real explanation as to why the chainring wore so quickly.  It is an aluminum chain ring and with the wide/narrow tooth profile I think this is a higher than usual wear item on XX1.  I was told that X01 might have a longer life as SRAM puts some type of black coating on the ring to increase wear.

I also told SRAM that my r/d was creaking and popping a bit and asked about servicing the clutch mechanism.  They said that the XX1 (or any SRAM r/d clutch) was not meant to be serviceable.  They are sending out a replacement chainring and r/d under warranty.  This is very nice of them, but I'd rather just have the parts I purchased not cause me any reliability problems.

I still love the XX1 drivetrain and if I were to buy a new chainring I would look at some of the other options like the one from Endless Cogs, they may use a harder material for their rings.

[carbonazza]

I little disappointed in my XX1 setup today.

I was just wondering how long my cassette would last.

I looked yesterday and saw some teeths were already showing some wear, just after 200km, on the big cog.
But it was a false alert, they are designed like this, quite irregular.

Did you get your replacement through your LBS too or direct?
Did they ask you some more questions about the rear derailleur before going for a replacement?
If I remember well, you had already your chain replaced, isn't it?

[Carbon_Dude]

I'm not seeing any issues at the moment with the cassette.  With SRAM you need to work with a LBS, they asked a few questions about the r/d, but overall I believe they know it's a newish design and are willing to make a good faith effort to make the customer happy.

I have read that Shimano rarely does anything for customers who have issues with their products.  Yes, on my other bike, the chain broke at about 250 miles and SRAM sent a replacement.  I can't be sure the chain didn't break at a point where I pushed a pin out and back in, could have been my fault on that failure but SRAM was nice about warranty replacement.

[Vipassana]

Yeah, the chains are not designed to be put back together with the pin.  The pins are broken when they are pushed out with a chain tool.  The only correct way to join a modern bike chain is with a quick disconnect magic link thing.

[brmeyer135]

Gotta say, that is awesome customer service from SRAM.
If you take a pin out - use one of Shimano's pin - their chain connector...read that they haven't gone to qwik-link because they believe their pin connection is stronger?

[Vipassana]

Yeah, I forgot about that Shimano break off pin.  So I guess my statement needs amending.  The only correct way to join the SRAM chain is with a magic link.  When I pushed the pin out of my XX1 chain, there was a small ring of metal left around the pin on the chain tool.  This is the broken off flange that is originally part of the mushroomed pin head.

[Carbon_Dude]

Thought I'd post an update.  Last week I received the new XX1 chainring and r/d.  Installed them and my grinding issue disappeared, (duh).  The chainring had some odd, not obvious wear.  The new chain and chainring did the trick.

As for the creaking in the r/d, well it's still there.  Even the new r/d makes some noise.  After changing gears, up or down one gear, I get a creak after one or two revolutions of the cranks.  Really to have two r/d do the same thing.

Today I removed the cassette, checked the free hub, re-greased, and reassembled.  I inspected the assette and free hub spline, both looked like the day I installed them.  The cassette has about 700 miles on it, and it looks like my other cassette with 200 miles on it.

I made a b-screw adjustment (to set the jockey wheel at 12mm from the 42T cog as the user guide indicates).  After doing that bit of maintenance and adjustments, nothing changed, still a small creak (sometimes) after shifting gears when out on the trail.  Note, my FS IP-036 does not do this, however, I'm on my second r/d on that bike as well.  A week after building the FS Chiner, I exchanged the r/d because it was creaking all the time, not just intermittently.  However, the replacement r/d for that bike now has about 300 miles on it and it's been fine.

It's not like there is probably anything seriously wrong, just slightly annoying to have the drivetrain not be perfectly smooth and quiet.  I may bring the r/d back to the LBS and call SRAM one more time to see if they have any suggestions.

[brmeyer135]

can you grease the jockey wheels or open the derailleur itself and grease in there.
There is/was a thread at other site on problematic XT clutch der. and how one takes them apart to grease them.
No threads on XX1 der. creak?

[brmeyer135]

my build:
FSA SLK Compact double
weight 690g and price...from ebay 160.00
SEOlite cassette 11-36
weight 178g and 140.00
XTR M986 shadow + rear derailleur
weight 216 and price 128.00
XTR M980 shifters
weight 198 and price 110.00(for both)
bottom bracket (BB30)  56g (came with crank)
XTR M980 chain  260g and 40.00

My totals before n/w chainring and a 40 or 42 tooth:  weight  1598 and expense:  538.00

If I just go 1x - need a chainring was 45.00 at uptown...weight 2x chainrings total 117   1598-117=1481 + 31 = 1512g and price 583.00
For me...weight is same...price is much better....performance - unknown but doesn't match range