Carbonda Cfr 1056

[JohnnyRabbit]

I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean?  What standards do modern bands support?  Thank you.

BSA threaded bottom bracket are less prone to creaking than press fitted BB86 bottom bracket. If you want your bike to sound like an old rocking chair go for BB86.

[patliean1]

BSA threaded bottom bracket are less prone to creaking than press fitted BB86 bottom bracket. If you want your bike to sound like an old rocking chair go for BB86.

9 bike builds with BB86...no creaking with quality bottom brackets. Thread-together pressfit BBs help too.
1 bike with BSA...creaking within first 500 miles.

It should also be noted that most creaking isn't even bottom bracket related.

[ENEP]

I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean?  What standards do modern bands support?  Thank you.

BB86 gives you the option of both 'normal' press-fit and 'thread-together-press-fit'. Both have pros and cons. Choose one and live with it.

[volan]

Dear riders, I would like your precious advice on the road bike components and frame. I am in mtb for 4 years now, and would like to give a go with road bike as well.

I have good experience with fm936 frame and build. I have also good experience with ali components; bars, stems, seatposts...

1. So my first question is, what carbonda road frame would you suggest for a starter roadie?

2. What is the best option for wheels and groupset?

a)Since I have some experience with wheel building so wouldn't be a problem to order hubs/rims and spokes and make my own wheels. My safe bet for my mtb bikes was dt rims (471,391...) and ali hubs (ztto, goldix). Are dt aluminum rim ok for a starter or is it better to go carbon straigh away?

b)I noticed that brake levers/shifters from shimano/sram are SOOOO expensive, so I am thinking about getting ltwoo levers/shifters. Is that good choice?

I will be having more questions, hopefully will get an answer.

[Takiyaki]

Is this an endurance frame? I don't understand the geometry.

[mariopetit]

Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:

The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD

The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")

Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.

I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.

Hi! Where did you buy FSA components? (Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD and the spacers)
Thanks!

[JohnnyRabbit]

Is this an endurance frame? I don't understand the geometry.

Yes, very close to the Cannondale Synapse geometry.

[wichrvod]

Hi,
Please give me the advise, which size will be better S or M? I'm 175cm and 84cm inseam. Im pretty much sure, that M will be suitable, but have some concerns about the geometry. Previously I rode on Canyon Endurace size S, but here except 0.5 degree steeper seat angle, and 9mm taller head tube size M is more less same sizing as S in Canyon.
I'm also considering handlebar from Carbonda? Worth it?

[jstrawks]

Hi,
Please give me the advise, which size will be better S or M? I'm 175cm and 84cm inseam. Im pretty much sure, that M will be suitable, but have some concerns about the geometry. Previously I rode on Canyon Endurace size S, but here except 0.5 degree steeper seat angle, and 9mm taller head tube size M is more less same sizing as S in Canyon.
I'm also considering handlebar from Carbonda? Worth it?

I'm your height and I bought a medium. Sometimes I think I should have chosen the small, sometimes I don't. It's that borderline.

I didn't use Carbonda's headset, stem or bars, so I don't have an opinion about their bars.

[carbonazza]

how is your project going?  I would like to make one too based on this frame.

Sorry for the long delay 
The person went for a 1136 instead, BSA BB, with Rival AXS shifters, WR40 lightbicycle wheelset, Force crankset and derailleurs.
The integrated handlebar from Carbonda is great if you know the stem length you need upfront.

[msm626]

Hi! Where did you buy FSA components? (Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD and the spacers)
Thanks!

Right here: https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/fsa-smr-acr-stem and https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr-std

[msm626]

I had to reface the rear brake mounts on mine.

Been a long time, but following up. I had another shop reface the rear brake mounts. Since I and the first shop tried to force fit bolts, we caused some damage, but it wasn't too problematic. The resurfacing worked great, and the bike rides perfectly now. I've completed a few centuries on it and love how it feels.

[jstrawks]

Yesterday I fitted a pair of Spinergy GXX gravel wheels to my CFR-1056. They have 35mm Schwalbe G-One Allroads mounted. They fit beautifully.

[kosmonaut75]

Hello,

I am brand new here and very interested in the CFR 1056. The size M should fit me perfectly at 179cm and 87cm inseam. But I'm really torn and wonder if I should take the risk, since there are obviously some issues with quality at Carbonda:

1) I have a CFR 696, where the seatpost sags (already tried 4).
2) I read at @msm626 post "the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned...". In this case I would be completely lost, since I am a relatively inexperienced hobby mechanic and in such a case even the bike dealer could possibly not help. 700 bucks for nothing...

How big do you estimate the risk, what are your experiences with quality assurance at Carbonda?

By the way: Great forum here 

[carbonazza]

If you look hard enough you'll find horror stories about any brand.
Carbonda is one of the builder that has high quality products and service.
Sometimes bad luck strikes, but they generally stand behind their products.