The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[darius72]

This is my derailleur alignment; shifting good but could be better expecially shifting up. Comments?

[Confused]

A small drain hole shouldn't cause issues.  Sharp bit and go slow then lightly sand on the inside to remove any burrs - assuming bottom bracket is out.  A guy on reddit went to change cable housings in a frame with no drain hole and found black mold on everything. for a little more peace of mind it seems like an easy adjustment.

[scourge]

I finished my build. I took my time since this is the first time I've ever built up a bike. I did it entirely through watching YouTube videos, and I had fun doing it. There were some learning moments, but all and all it wasn't too tough. Thanks to everyone on here who gave advice and answered questions for me. And thanks to Eddie for giving a good deal. This group buy is what convinced me to try this project.

I am a budget mountain biker that is always looking for a good deal. This build reflects that. It done with budget parts. My build:

Frame: large in orange matte
Fork: Suntour Durolux (had the previous model Durolux and it was amazing. Hope this one is as good)
Rear shock: Manitou McLeod (got a great deal on this shock, always wanted to try one)
Drivetrain: Microshift Advent X (can't wait to try this on the trail)
Brakes: Shimano Deore with 180mm rotors (got these brakes cheap on AliExpress)
Dropper: PNW Loam dropper
Dropper lever: cheap one off AliExpress. (Kind of like the Wolf tooth knockoff I bought off there on my other bike)
Handlebar: Iveke carbon 780mm (I went 31.8 hoping it may be softer on the hands than 35mm)
Stem: Hussefelt 40mm (I had a brand new one from a long time ago sitting around)
Wheels: Silt AM
Tires: Specialized Butcher up front and Slaughter in the rear (wanted a fast rolling rear. I hope it has enough grip for around here)
Cranks: cheap Chinese IXF cranks. (There were knobs on the inside of the cranks that were hitting the rear triangle. I had to hacksaw them off to get it to work)
Chainring: Chinese oval ring (my first oval ring. Should be interesting)
Headset: used the on that came with it
Bottom bracket: also used the provided one
Seat: a Chinese knockoff of a Specialized Power
Pedals: Chinese knockoff of Kona Wah Wah 2 composite
Grips: ODI Dreadlocks (these are my favorite grips so far)
Frame protection: Lizards kind downtube protector and chainstay sleeve

That's it. Built with budget parts. Can't wait to see how it rides.

I posted on here how I was going to route the rear brake externally because I messed up and had to cut some taped up cable left in the seat stay. But I tried again and noticed it wasn't blocking, so I have the internal routing a go again. I bought cheap internal route kit off Amazon for fifteen bucks. It was a life saver. I don't think I could have got that brake cable routed without it. I wasted hours figuring out the other internal routing on my own with an magnet and a paperclip. It was brutal. The kit mad it so easy. I really wished I would have started with it.

I also couldn't get rid of play in my headset using the stock equipment. I had to buy a star nut and that solved the problem right away.

I learned a ton from this build.

[scourge]

Not sure why the pic posted so blurry. It's clear on my tablet. Sorry

[scourge]

Second try

[scourge]

Still blurry. Oh well

[darius72]

I finished my build.
I learned a ton from this build.

Same to me...learned  a lot from this build and from related issues; internal brake routing in my opinion is a bad idea, I also wasted a lot of time and now I have to solve the hose rattling inside frame issue; I think the best idea (from youtube) is to slide around the hose some foam tube from the lower hole (where is the rubber seal) that is bigger.
Your part list doesn't sound like low quality, probably just your final weight isn't light as mine; I finished above 3000$ for 12.3 kg; what is your weight and final bill?
Also post a ride review (if you have time)and a report about the last issues we are experiencing: is the rear triangle flexy? Bolts are tight? Shifting is ok? Rear deraielluer position?
One comment: I think you cut your hoses too long
Enjoy the bike!

[carbonazza]

...internal brake routing in my opinion is a bad idea, I also wasted a lot of time and now I have to solve the hose rattling inside frame issue; I think the best idea (from youtube) is to slide around the hose some foam tube from the lower hole (where is the rubber seal) that is bigger...

After a couple of bikes, you'll find internal routing more normal, not that funny, but normal 

Another thing you can do for the rattling issue, is to get some pipe insulation foam, cut it in two longitudinally and shorter than the downtube.
Remove the fork, and put it in the frame by the bottom of the headtube, trying to squeeze the hose against the frame.

[JJJ]

Rode mine the first time last Saturday, a short ride compatible with my wrist recovery. Ascent with steep technical portions, then a downhill singletrack, flowy at the beginning with small jumps, ending with tight turns in a steep off-camber section. Dry conditions, which make the off-camber bit slippery with loose soil and dust.

The climb was way easier, both technically and physically, than with my Rocky Mountain Altitude (same type of bike, but 27.5 wheels and "old" geometry).

The descent felt significantly better than with the Altitude. The bike is responsive and grippy, and handles great in the small turns, which I initially doubted with the big wheels. Haven't tried tight switchbacks yet.

Shimano drive train switches flawlessly (all Shimano but an e13 cassette). No cables rattling in the frame that I could hear above the rolling noise. The rear triangle is stiff, at least as stiff as my Altitude.

[Jotegr]

Do you have the 14-17 Altitude or the 18-20 one?

[JJJ]

Do you have the 14-17 Altitude or the 18-20 one?

The 14-17.

[scourge]

Same to me...learned  a lot from this build and from related issues; internal brake routing in my opinion is a bad idea, I also wasted a lot of time and now I have to solve the hose rattling inside frame issue; I think the best idea (from youtube) is to slide around the hose some foam tube from the lower hole (where is the rubber seal) that is bigger.
Your part list doesn't sound like low quality, probably just your final weight isn't light as mine; I finished above 3000$ for 12.3 kg; what is your weight and final bill?
Also post a ride review (if you have time)and a report about the last issues we are experiencing: is the rear triangle flexy? Bolts are tight? Shifting is ok? Rear deraielluer position?
One comment: I think you cut your hoses too long
Enjoy the bike!

Yeah it's just the front brake and rear derailleur hose that are a bit too long. The front brake is how long it came pre bled out of the box, so I just threw it on there. Now that I've cut and bled a brake, I'll redo the front. And the rear derailleur will be simple to trim down.

[darius72]

I cut my shimano hose, I bled one brake but there was no air, so I didn't even bled the second; then I read that 90% of cases you don't need to bleed after hose trimming

[threeathan]

Hi, I am looking to make an order for the frame soon, but hearing as quite a few people who completed building up the bike has mentioned that the rear triangle has some lateral play to it. I am trying to understand what you guys mean by this as it is honestly quite concerning how this can happen.

Maybe someone who has this issue with their built bike can maybe post a video showing what they mean? And maybe what they did to solve this issue. That will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[cybrsrce]

With thin shims in it is considerably better than it was.  I have a variety of different nylon washers coming today so I am going to experiment with 1-3mm on each side.
A video of the flex.