Velobuild VB-R-177

[Jwzard]

Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off

[patliean1]

Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off

Not that I'm aware of. At $499 + shipping it's a solid deal as is, and probably not much "room" for discounts. Then again I could be wrong...

[Liter]

I have/had tubes in them.
90PSI is exactly what my current weight requires, when I select "mid range tire with butyl tubes" and worn pavement. If I pick high performance casing tubeless (which GP5000 TL most likely is), it says 95.5PSI

Pressure is prob. not the reason: For once I have ridden in warmer days and for longer.  This happened after 86Kms, not at the beginning. I use 90PSI tubeless in my other bike.

Rims were ordered tubeless.

To the other poster, they are hooked.

Imagine if it had been the front wheel. Could the tires not been seated properly? Did you buy them on Aliexpress?

[slosada]

Imagine if it had been the front wheel. Could the tires not been seated properly? Did you buy them on Aliexpress?

Nope and nope.
You would feel or see a bump in the tire. It had an inner tube.

Bought straight from Velobuild in the same order.  In fact, the different hub and spokes delayed the bike delivery (80 days total).

I won't use the front wheel anymore. It's the same materials and same builder.

Apart from the poor quality, what should be a concern for everyone is the abysmal after sales support... Also  Paypal won't protect you in cases of low quality and not honored warranty.

[mwh0169]

Sorry to take this long to reply.

I have not cut the compression ring yet, I just need to shave 1MM from the top, have no clue how I should cut it.

I used the Deda spacers.

I will post a video tomorrow of the setup and show you why the compression needs to be cut a bit

I was never really comfortable with the bike after the headset issues. Decided to change with either the Acr or the Superbox, decided for the Superbox because of the option running a semi integrated solution for for easier bike maintenance and travelling with the bike. The post from Liter took me over the line.

Happy with the result so far, everything sits tight.

[s3si1u]

Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off

Likely not for your first purchase. Chris will pobably hook you up with a bit of a discount if you're a repeat customer and ask nicely. Much less than 15%, the prices are already quite low.

[Jwzard]

I understand.

Any of you running mechanical gears with internal routing in handlebar/stem having problems with shifting?
There will obviously be some pretty sharp bends on the cable.

[patliean1]

I understand.

Any of you running mechanical gears with internal routing in handlebar/stem having problems with shifting?
There will obviously be some pretty sharp bends on the cable.

Most people in here are running mechanical shifting. Quality shift cables/housing and proper installation, and you should never ever have a problem with shifting with internal routing.

[Liter]

Nope and nope.
You would feel or see a bump in the tire. It had an inner tube.

Bought straight from Velobuild in the same order.  In fact, the different hub and spokes delayed the bike delivery (80 days total).

I won't use the front wheel anymore. It's the same materials and same builder.

Apart from the poor quality, what should be a concern for everyone is the abysmal after sales support... Also  Paypal won't protect you in cases of low quality and not honored warranty.

Agree no worth the risk, let us know if they get back on the issue.

I was never really comfortable with the bike after the headset issues. Decided to change with either the Acr or the Superbox, decided for the Superbox because of the option running a semi integrated solution for for easier bike maintenance and travelling with the bike. The post from Liter took me over the line.

Happy with the result so far, everything sits tight.

Cool! Have been using this combo for 3 months and still happy with the result

[Mowgli]

Hi all,

New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.




1. The main problem is that under braking, the steering seems to lock up. On inspection of the headset, it seems there is contact between the back of the fork crown and the head tube, and also the top headset bearing cap and the front of the top of the head tube. It's like the bearings have been set too far inside the head tube. Because the bearings don't contact on the flat faces, but on the chamfered inner and outer races, it's not possible to put a simple spacer in to lift them. Chris at VB has said he's sending me some new headset bearings, which are presumably taller/thicker, but this seems a bit of a bodge to fix poor moulding alignment.




2. The integrated one-piece stem/handlebar is ridiculously flexible. Admittedly it's hard to notice whilst riding, but even a small amount of force downwards on the hoods or drops gives >10mm movement. I'm not sure I trust these bars! It's probably due to the very thin aero middle section of the bars, the skinny stem which accomodates the cables, and possibly the short amount of contact with the steerer. And possibly the fact that they are cheaply made with too much focus on weight saving. I'm not impressed, but also can't quite face spending hundreds on something from a 'western' brand. I have the 100mm x 400mm set and could probably do with something a bit shorter, so will probably swap it before too long (if I keep the bike and can fix the problem above).

3. This one is probably my fault. I chose the bike size based on ETT, without really paying too much attention to the very low top tube and short head tube. I'm 5'8 and picked the Small (54cm ett). I have a lot of seatpost sticking out - about 15mm more than the minimum insertion. So whilst it's got more than the minimum insertion, it does look a bit odd and like I maybe should have got the Medium size and run a ~70mm stem.

Cheers,

[mwh0169]

Hi all,

New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.

I like the colour of the bike, looks great.
On advise of forum member Liter I installed a DEDA Superbox stem on the 177. It allows you for full integration or you can alternatively run the cables under the handlebar.
I haven't regret it since, feel much saver and very happy with the result. The initial play in the headset is completely gone.
I'm still running the original bar, but I'm looking to replace that as well in the near future.

[Velovelo]

Hi all,

New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.




1. The main problem is that under braking, the steering seems to lock up. On inspection of the headset, it seems there is contact between the back of the fork crown and the head tube, and also the top headset bearing cap and the front of the top of the head tube. It's like the bearings have been set too far inside the head tube. Because the bearings don't contact on the flat faces, but on the chamfered inner and outer races, it's not possible to put a simple spacer in to lift them. Chris at VB has said he's sending me some new headset bearings, which are presumably taller/thicker, but this seems a bit of a bodge to fix poor moulding alignment.




2. The integrated one-piece stem/handlebar is ridiculously flexible. Admittedly it's hard to notice whilst riding, but even a small amount of force downwards on the hoods or drops gives >10mm movement. I'm not sure I trust these bars! It's probably due to the very thin aero middle section of the bars, the skinny stem which accomodates the cables, and possibly the short amount of contact with the steerer. And possibly the fact that they are cheaply made with too much focus on weight saving. I'm not impressed, but also can't quite face spending hundreds on something from a 'western' brand. I have the 100mm x 400mm set and could probably do with something a bit shorter, so will probably swap it before too long (if I keep the bike and can fix the problem above).

3. This one is probably my fault. I chose the bike size based on ETT, without really paying too much attention to the very low top tube and short head tube. I'm 5'8 and picked the Small (54cm ett). I have a lot of seatpost sticking out - about 15mm more than the minimum insertion. So whilst it's got more than the minimum insertion, it does look a bit odd and like I maybe should have got the Medium size and run a ~70mm stem.

Cheers,

-----------------

This problem is common with custom painted frames. Extra coat of paint reduces / closes the gap between the headset and frame body. Most times you then need to add washers to raise the headset from rubbing the top tube. The bottom of the headtube rubbing the fork will definitely need a taller bottom bearing.
Good VB agreed to send new taller headset bearings.

[pierluigi]

Should be picking this up in the next 48 hours! I just need to put on a rear mount, I assumed I could bolt the sram one right to the frame like my old bike!

Hi,
Just a question: which head set model did you use?

Thanks

Gigi

[pearl]

Hi,
Just a question: which head set model did you use?

Thanks

Gigi

I used the FSA 55R 1.5 ACR headset: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/headset-spares/no-55r-1-5-acr

[pierluigi]

Thanks a lot.