Velobuild VB-R-218

[Sebastian]

I don’t see why you couldn’t use that stem and bar with the 218 frame. But you would have to use a different upper headset bearing compression ring. From what I can see, the compression ring that comes with the 218 will route two cables each left and right to line them up with two holes in the integrated bars. That stem however has only one big hole which won’t line up with the compression ring. The compression ring that comes with the 168 should work however, since that frameset is being sold with that bar and stem.


Also, the spacer and bar that come with the 218 frame fit best in terms of the shape. The headset top cap perfectly integrates into the frame and another top cap might look slightly odd. But that’s just aesthetics.

[curvenut]

Still waiting on replacement frame or an acknowledgment that one will actually be sent out
I was told a couple of weeks ago it would be sent, then a week later they asked me if it was the same address
Yesterday or day before, I asked for a tracking #  & then then they asked again if it was the same shipping address (I have lived in the same home for 10+ years)

I guess I will see a frame at some point in time in the next couple of months & in the meantime going back to my Trek Madone & the vbr-218 will lie dismantled in the garage as all attempts to fix it have failed
It's a shame they didn't use more glue as I really do like the frame

Chris, also mailed out some extra screws & I think that got delayed in the mail, but finally showed up. So they do keep their word, though their tracking system & QC need a bit of work

I don't think anyone here should hesitate to try these frames, as it's a really good experience to learn how to build your own bike & it really is a very nice bike to ride on.

 The problems you had on the frame make me think twice  !
I am still debating if I should get a chineese frame !

[curvenut]

I don’t see why you couldn’t use that stem and bar with the 218 frame. But you would have to use a different upper headset bearing compression ring. From what I can see, the compression ring that comes with the 218 will route two cables each left and right to line them up with two holes in the integrated bars. That stem however has only one big hole which won’t line up with the compression ring. The compression ring that comes with the 168 should work however, since that frameset is being sold with that bar and stem.


Also, the spacer and bar that come with the 218 frame fit best in terms of the shape. The headset top cap perfectly integrates into the frame and another top cap might look slightly odd. But that’s just aesthetics.

maybe better to stick to the integrated nandle bar.
Or just go for the vbr-168 frame ..   But I am not  very keen to have a BB86 press fit,   I have the feeling that maintenance would be hard ,  for example if i want to clean the BB interior frame

Am i right or wrong on thses assumptions ?

[hazzer19]

maybe better to stick to the integrated nandle bar.
Or just go for the vbr-168 frame ..   But I am not  very keen to have a BB86 press fit,   I have the feeling that maintenance would be hard ,  for example if i want to clean the BB interior frame

Am i right or wrong on thses assumptions ?

You can buy a press fit BB that threads together internally, making it easier IMO to take apart and put back together for servicing, etc instead of having to hammer the BB out. I've been using this ZTTO one with ceramic for over a year and it's been great. Make sure to use the right tool(s) though, as you can easily chew out teeth or squash the BB since it's AL and not super strong. Other brands like Wheels Manufacturing make them as well if you want a more premium one.


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832836732250.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.98.63f71802WAqpCm&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

[curvenut]

You can buy a press fit BB that threads together internally, making it easier IMO to take apart and put back together for servicing, etc instead of having to hammer the BB out. I've been using this ZTTO one with ceramic for over a year and it's been great. Make sure to use the right tool(s) though, as you can easily chew out teeth or squash the BB since it's AL and not super strong. Other brands like Wheels Manufacturing make them as well if you want a more premium one.


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832836732250.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.98.63f71802WAqpCm&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

interesting !

[Sebastian]

Not sure what you mean by cleaning the interior of the BB. A press fit assembly is best left alone once it’s installed and creak free. That’s why IMO it’s best to install a BB that comes as a one piece shell or a thread together two piece shell like the ones from Wheels Mfg. Once those are in you can then just replace the bearings if necessary by knocking the old ones out and pressing a set of new bearings into the shell which remains in the frame.

At least on the PF30 frame that I had, the fitment deteriorated with each new BB that I pressed in until I had to use Loctite for a good and creak free fit. But maybe that’s not the case with every frame. I dunno.

[madmax]

VBR-218 bike computer mount showed up yesterday.

Either Chris is reading these forums or saw my earlier email & mailed it out & forgot to send a reply & it showed up 1 month later

[curvenut]

Not sure what you mean by cleaning the interior of the BB. A press fit assembly is best left alone once it’s installed and creak free. That’s why IMO it’s best to install a BB that comes as a one piece shell or a thread together two piece shell like the ones from Wheels Mfg. Once those are in you can then just replace the bearings if necessary by knocking the old ones out and pressing a set of new bearings into the shell which remains in the frame.

At least on the PF30 frame that I had, the fitment deteriorated with each new BB that I pressed in until I had to use Loctite for a good and creak free fit. But maybe that’s not the case with every frame. I dunno.

on my current bike,  i remove the BB annually and found dust and sans inside of the BB shell. thats what i mean cleaning

[Sebastian]

There’s no need to clean the inside of the BB shell IMO. You could clean and relube your bearings. But on most bearings the seals can’t easily be popped off and reinstalled and you might do more harm than good. I usually leave it alone. At most, I take out the crank once in a while and remove debris and dirt that’s caught inbetween the crank arm and the BB. Once the bearings sound rough, I might attempt to clean and relube them. But that usually doesn’t really prolong their life significantly. Once they start sounding rough that’s usually a sign that they need replacing. With all that said, I don’t feel like my BBs wear out prematurely. But I had two PF30 frames and on those, the BB bearings did not last as long as the BB on my BSA road bikes. I bought a used Campy crank from 2009 for my steel road bike. No idea how old the bearings were. But after around 10.000k one of them needed replacing. The used record square taper BB on my commuter was more than ten years old when I bought it. I rode it for five years in all weathers including salty winter roads with absolutely no maintenance. And it still wins every spin test.

[kongo]

Did you already buy the Di2 groupset or had one lying around ?

If no, then the sram eTap is the easiest way to get a groupset on that frame & handlebar

sorry, for late reply but no. what junction A box are u planing to use?

[Benbenben]

 guys, update from me.

I am waiting for replacement frame. It cracked around the seat post holes. Chris handled it very well. After asking to sand to confirm the cracks, he confirmed quickly they would send a replacement.

Now it shipped and he advised it was a different UD finish. Also shipped from HK. New facility? Anyone got that finish?

For the di2 people, see what I did. The strap did not fit anyway and I think this looks pretty clean. Only other option would be the 150$ end bar junctio

[Benbenben]

Also pic of the bike before the cracks

[Queen of Skulls]

Woo got my frame!!! mint and turquoise with pearl white.  The  paint has all the issues that everyone says.  but I still like it over the black. I am going to add some stickers... woo pride... to the parts I dont like... and need to get grip paste and lube. What does everyone suggest for those??


 also to see if there is any major issues with the frame as I built it. thats the scary part... to see if the frame I just got is decent. or is there is alinemnt issues like in the BB... I still dont know why they dont use a 1 peice BB>

[madmax]

Woo got my frame!!! mint and turquoise with pearl white.  The  paint has all the issues that everyone says.  but I still like it over the black. I am going to add some stickers... woo pride... to the parts I dont like... and need to get grip paste and lube. What does everyone suggest for those??


 also to see if there is any major issues with the frame as I built it. thats the scary part... to see if the frame I just got is decent. or is there is alinemnt issues like in the BB... I still dont know why they dont use a 1 peice BB>

Congratulations on the new frame/bike.

Print this page out for torque specs. This frame (VBR-218) is identical to the F12 Dogma
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1949164/Pinarello-Dogma-F12-Series.html?page=5

Don't worry about threadlocker (I did not use any)

DO NOT over-tighten any screws/bolts beyond the rated spec & use a good torque wrench

Enjoy the bike & post completed pix

Edit:
The frame will ship with carbon paste for the seatpost and thats the only place it should be used

For bottom bracket, fork etc, I strongly suggest picking up a tube of PPL-1000 (ParkTool Polylube), unless you happen to have specialist grease already in your workshop

Route the cables through the handlebar before your attach to fork & don't cut anything unless you are sure about your reach/height
I did mine backwards & really suffered through the install, because it was a Campagnolo rim brake/mechanical so 2 cables each side & it was very difficult to work with

If you have the flat aero handlebar on the vbr-218 then use a nice 2.5 or 3mm tape like Bontrager, because putting your hands on the tops/flat part will tire them out
Yeah, I know this sound wierd but I have more hand pain on this handlebar than on my actual Trek Madone & when I redo the tape I will use a thicker one as mentioned above.

[Queen of Skulls]

Congratulations on the new frame/bike.

Print this page out for torque specs. This frame (VBR-218) is identical to the F12 Dogma
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1949164/Pinarello-Dogma-F12-Series.html?page=5

Don't worry about threadlocker (I did not use any)

DO NOT over-tighten any screws/bolts beyond the rated spec & use a good torque wrench

Enjoy the bike & post completed pix


Of course I got to post a pic. And I have a number of torque wrenches. I tighten things to spec...  And I dont plan to cut the tube Til I get a feel. however the seat post might get shorter.  and I got an extra set of head tube spacers So I can  go as high as I need. I am all torso short legs. I am  6ft tall and  sit taller then almost everyone. ANd I got big hands too. So I wonder about the bars.  I am tall lady.
Edit:
The frame will ship with carbon paste for the seatpost and thats the only place it should be used

For bottom bracket, fork etc, I strongly suggest picking up a tube of PPL-1000 (ParkTool Polylube), unless you happen to have specialist grease already in your workshop

Route the cables through the handlebar before your attach to fork & don't cut anything unless you are sure about your reach/height
I did mine backwards & really suffered through the install, because it was a Campagnolo rim brake/mechanical so 2 cables each side & it was very difficult to work with

If you have the flat aero handlebar on the vbr-218 then use a nice 2.5 or 3mm tape like Bontrager, because putting your hands on the tops/flat part will tire them out
Yeah, I know this sound wierd but I have more hand pain on this handlebar than on my actual Trek Madone & when I redo the tape I will use a thicker one as mentioned above.

of course a pic... And I got big hands. So I think the bars should be fine. I was going to get some finish line grip paste. I have the juintech gts. I got the jagwire cables.  I need to order the saddle... I totally forgot about it. Also I am all torso and small legs. So I  bought another set of top tube spacers and I mght cut the seat post if I can drop it more.