Author Topic: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame  (Read 96972 times)

TidyDinosaur

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #375 on: April 25, 2024, 11:55:41 AM »
But then again: if it makes no difference, why are there 2 different ring supplied in the set in the picture? ???

coffeebreak

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #376 on: April 25, 2024, 12:35:48 PM »
Re: Aluminum tape/foil sandwiched between fork and c-ring. It works in a pinch - I tried it on VB GF002 which had the infamous headset play issue like many other VB bikes. The play disappeared to an extent but it never felt *right*. The issue completely went away with new c-ring that VB sent after a year. The new ring has an extra cutout v/s old ring and is probably made of softer material too.

Stephiso

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #377 on: April 26, 2024, 09:53:05 AM »
The thing is i don't actually have any play after setting up the bike in my garage. The play starts to develop during the ride...i'm assuming after hitting some bumps/road cracks i would guess. I've re-tightened the topcap screw a little bit more and I will report back on my next ride. It seems like it was not very tight after my few initial ride.

TidyDinosaur

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #378 on: April 26, 2024, 10:23:51 AM »
With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame

Stephiso

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #379 on: April 26, 2024, 12:56:44 PM »
With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame

Yes this is what i notice with mine too. Hold front break and rock the bike back and forth. There is a very minimal amount of play but enough to notice.

I just did a 30km ride after tightening the topcap to 4nm but the play still came back after the ride. :(

chughes

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #380 on: April 26, 2024, 10:04:36 PM »
Regarding the play issue which develops during the ride, would suggest you apply medium strength thread locker to the stem bolts. Screws prabably untightening due to road vibrations

TidyDinosaur

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #381 on: April 28, 2024, 12:51:48 PM »
Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.

teunnes

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #382 on: April 30, 2024, 02:59:48 PM »
I have a brand new frame in size L that i'm not going to use. Anyone interested? Based in the Netherlands :)

Stephiso

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #383 on: May 03, 2024, 01:15:44 PM »
Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.

I think i'll give it a try too, but i'm not sure that is what my problem is.


I did 6.5nm on the expander, and 6nm on the stem bolts and i still have some play after my ride.

But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?

TidyDinosaur

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #384 on: May 03, 2024, 01:23:09 PM »
But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
Yes you should use carbon paste on the stem/steerer tube interface.

Ronronson

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #385 on: May 04, 2024, 09:55:17 AM »
Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.

The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.

Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.

The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...




TidyDinosaur

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #386 on: May 04, 2024, 10:10:52 AM »
Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.

The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.

Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.

The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
Yes, the hoses are just guides. Do full external housing.
I did full mechanical so 4 cables is possible. No experience with Compressionless housing
And indeed, no grommets supplied. This is a shame.


fabxyz

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #388 on: May 12, 2024, 04:12:19 PM »
4) Computer mount, which comes with handlebar is flexy, and I'm afraid it might break on bumps. Here some video only with garmin edge 520
[...]
And with 200g bike light
[...]
So I'm looking for more rigid computer mount.

You should be fine!
I've got the same feeling, but for now it is working fine with computer + light (~6 months of use).
Trace Velo has tested it and recommends the Hygge support unlike others on Aliexpress:
https://youtu.be/FERc_xzoESg?si=hbN-qjnUTMXCcVKx&t=102

fabxyz

Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Reply #389 on: May 12, 2024, 05:07:18 PM »
Soo guys, the whole headset discussion here is a bit bogged down. Unfortunately, there are a lot of people here and at Hygge who have no idea about mechanics or bikes, and half-knowledge is being thrown around ("have you tried tightening it really hard?", "what if you use threadlocker?" ...).

Here is my view:

1) Hygge (or the headset manufacturer) have been quite grossly negligent here. This is a faulty design. It is impossible to achieve a play-free fit with the stiff headset cone supplied! Ever since there have been ahead headsets, they have always been made with flexible compression rings:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_%28bicycle_part%29

2) The cone only encloses the stem to a maximum of 270deg. When braking (abutment against the lower bearing) the fork stem is pressed forwards into the opening, which is mechanically very unfavourable.

3) It is nonsense to hope that the cone supplied by Hygge can be free of play with a lot of torque on the compression bolt, loctite, high clamping torque on the stem, ....

4) Tolerances can of course play a role, but the steerer tube and taper are not designed as a press fit. A conical, flexible compression ring is required here!

Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.

- Replace the entire upper headset unit:
But then you might have to rethink the connection (dovetail) to the cockpit.
Maybe this + a 3D-printed interface?
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset