Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[fabxyz]

I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html

I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.

I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.

[patliean1]

I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html

I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.

I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.

These are the types of posts that make this forum great. Thanks for sharing.

[KalviDj]

Hello, I fixed the headset play simply adding a 1mm headset spacer (cutting it to a C shape) above the C ring, I think a 0.5mm would be enough but i don't have anyone right now. C-ring I'm using is this one a had around. Expander I'm using is Deda Expander 70,very stiff and light, those AliExpress expanders with O-rings or springs doesn't convince me. also I'm not using the Hygge handlebar, Og-evkin one instead.
There's no play at all, I filled the tiny gap (smaller than the one at the bottom of the head tube) with grease to avoid dust and water ingress. Expander is tighten to the Deda's recommended 5Nm and stem bolts also 5Nm.

[Stephiso]

^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?


On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.


Thanks

[Serge_K]

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?

I've been seen to 3d print moon shaped spacers so that i could compress the steerer column, avoiding the plastic thing that sits just on top of the frame, from rubbing on it. If it rubs, some of that compression torque is going into the frame, which will probably result in headset play. Generally, nothing on a bike should rub.
It probably sounds theoretical, but once you've built a few bikes and faced these problems, it makes sense.
As w most things, you learn by doing.

[TidyDinosaur]

Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.

I have received the new headset spacer assembly with the plastic ring. The difference is not 3 mm but about 1mm when I just put them together on my desk. So when you install it and with some compression it will probably be less (since I expect the plastic ring to compress more). I would think that this is better than the steel ring because the cap that covers the top bearing rubs the frame with this one.
I am not planning to install this ring as long as my current solution stays tight...

[KalviDj]

^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?


On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.


Thanks

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
 

[TidyDinosaur]

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.

What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?

[KalviDj]

What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?

Up to down:
Steerer tube/stem cap
Stem
Spacers
Cover
Spacer
C-ring
Bearing

[TidyDinosaur]

Ah, that is different from the standard spacer-set supplied with the frame

[Stephiso]

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.

Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?

[Ronronson]

I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.

Any ideas?

[KalviDj]

Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?

I installed without undoing my Force AXS hydraulic cables

[TidyDinosaur]

I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.

Any ideas?

I might be wrong, but I think the lip is there to prevent the seatpost from being inserted too far. There is a maximum insertion and you have to cut your seatpost if it is too long. Forcing the seatpost past this ridge probably has gotten it jammed.

Maybe you can install an old saddle and tap it from the bottom?

[serenadebikes]

Inject a little grease. You can do it like this