Yishun R086-D Aero Road

[Sebastian]

Bottle cage height can be lowered with an adapter that bolts to where the cage is now. Not super pretty but probably barely visible once a bottle is in there.

[chughes]

@Sebastian yep for about 12.00 on amazon. For my 500 frameset, its not an issue (yes there is a bit of frame rub when you put it in and take it out) and I have a size 500 frame and a 24 oz bottle. Actually find it easier to take it in an out than my other frames (less of a struggle reaching for the cage). In the future will look at getting some aero bottle and cages. Reading from some studies that the regular cages and bottles can cause you to lose as much at 10 watts

A criticism I have of yishun is they need to be more detailed with the torque for the various bolts (only a few components included a torque label). I see Elves has it listed on their website. Yishun should do same or include a paper with the frameset stating this info. Note: Had issues with my seat-post dropping even though I set it to the max (note i am 68kg) stated on the component of 8nm (pot holes). They suggested I go 10 and it worked. Also had to use medium strength thread-locker on the stem and handlebar bolts (pot holes) in order to keep them from loosening

[Dark17]

@Sebastian yep for about 12.00 on amazon. For my 500 frameset, its not an issue (yes there is a bit of frame rub when you put it in and take it out) and I have a size 500 frame and a 24 oz bottle. Actually find it easier to take it in an out than my other frames (less of a struggle reaching for the cage). In the future will look at getting some aero bottle and cages. Reading from some studies that the regular cages and bottles can cause you to lose as much at 10 watts

A criticism I have of yishun is they need to be more detailed with the torque for the various bolts (only a few components included a torque label). I see Elves has it listed on their website. Yishun should do same or include a paper with the frameset stating this info. Note: Had issues with my seat-post dropping even though I set it to the max (note i am 68kg) stated on the component of 8nm (pot holes). They suggested I go 10 and it worked. Also had to use medium strength thread-locker on the stem and handlebar bolts (pot holes) in order to keep them from loosening

I emailed Melinda and asked for Torque specifications of the frame. Will post here as soon as i get a response. I am also in the middle of building the frame as I already have my wheelset which is Yishun's 206db-RSL50c

[patliean1]

Seen this Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 8 for sale in my neighborhood. Looks familiar...

[chughes]

@Pat especially the rear

[Dark17]

I did a first ride earlier with this bike. Tho I can't see the difference yet because I haven't did a thorough fit, bike came really really fast on rolling speeds and descents. I have yet to do a training ride because I still need to do some tweaks on my saddle fore/aft and specially headset because I can't seem to get the preload sweet spot.

Does anyone had issues with their headset preload?

[chughes]

Dark17, try using about a 3mm spacer just before the top cap and see Pat Leno's recommendation re a  .25mm micro spacer in this thread. The spacer before the top cap is just in case you did not cut the steerer short enough, to prevent it from rubbing against the top cap

[89quattro]

Having similar issues with the headset preload, can you point out where the spacer(s) need to go? I'm not all that familiar with the terminology. - thx

[Dark17]

Dark17, try using about a 3mm spacer just before the top cap and see Pat Leno's recommendation re a  .25mm micro spacer in this thread. The spacer before the top cap is just in case you did not cut the steerer short enough, to prevent it from rubbing against the top cap

My mechanic suggested to sand this part because it was rubbing against the headtube when we set the preload until no headset play occurs. I already asked Melinda if it is advisable but I guess I will have my reply on monday.

For the performance review of the frame, I did a ride on some of my usual routes (albeit a shorter one) and all I can say is, the bike is fast! Really good on climbs despite being an aero bike. Really aggressive frame but with the proper fit and some long rides to get used to the geometry, it will be a really good racing bike. TBH if I don't have an experience on disc brakes, I would crash the eff out on descents because this bike descends real fast.

Overall, the bike is really fast on flats and descends and descent on climbs, tho I still need to get used to the geometry of the frame by doing a proper bike fit and doing more endurance rides to get used to the frame.

[chughes]

Please note I did not use the supplied compression plug. When I tried it I found there was too much play. Used Cane Creek Ancora Expansion Plug. See attachment for spacer placement(s)

[Dark17]

Please note I did not use the supplied compression plug. When I tried it I found there was too much play. Used Cane Creek Ancora Expansion Plug. See attachment for spacer placement(s)

Guess it's probably too late that I haven't put a 0.25mm spacer between the headset cover and the compression ring. I also used another expander plug which is from Neco brand. I tried using Deda Expander 70 but i had bad experiences on that brand so i guess I'll stick to Neco for the meantime. Maybe the last thing I do is to sand the headset cover until it doesn't rub the headset tube.

[chughes]

Dark17 or use a spacer (you can also try a 1mm one) before the screw in the headset cover. It will sit just before the cover. Would save you from having to sand down the cover

[Dark17]

Dark17 or use a spacer (you can also try a 1mm one) before the screw in the headset cover. It will sit just before the cover. Would save you from having to sand down the cover

I'm sorry but what screw are you talking about? Could you point it out for me? I already assembled the internal routing so I might need to sand the headset cover instead

Edit:

It's also my first time building a bike by myself. It was a beautiful experience tho there are a few quite expensive mistakes I also made.
-Bought an poor quality bottom bracket so I bought another BB and from now on, I'll just stick to Shimano bottom brackets
-2 Deda expander plugs and both of them have shit quality
-Didn't understand the technicalities of Patrick's advice so I ended up fixing my headset for several days which I did not even fixed lol. Now I'm gonna sand the headset cover so it will not rub the headset tube.

[chughes]

Dark17 our bolt will differ because I had a lighter one, I used but you should get the idea. You will also notice the spacer just below the top cap

[Dark17]

ohh i see, I used to have a spacer just before my top cap but it also did not work for me. I just returned all of the supplied spacers because the stack is pretty low without them so i removed the additional spacers on the top cap. I cut the steerer tube just within 5mm without using any spacers