VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[hazzer19]

How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?

so far so good for me. I have the two axles on my 268 and one extra that lives on the trainer for ease. The front comes on and off really easy and quick. The back is also not bad but I find that I need to pull it out a bit after it finished unthreading to get it off but no big deal. Highly recommend getting a spare for the trainer as I personally wouldn't like having to pull the whole thing in and out to mount to a trainer as it takes a bit of push to insert the axle for the first time but easy once it's set.

First impression video is live.

My VeloBuild 268 Is FINISHED - First Ride Impressions
https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR

Awesome build and videos as usual Patty!

[Easyfunk]

Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.

 I did install a longer plug  (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.

Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.

I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.

[jcr]

There should not be any wheel compatibility problems with Mavic Speedrelease as the axle dimensions are equal to normal thru axles. That said I was very close to getting the 168 in stead just to get rid of it.

I was reading that if a wheelset that was 12mm and 15mm compatible (by changing the end cap) then the Speed release might be an issue but maybe that is less common of an issue for road wheels.

[casper.f]

I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.

Why the SL7 clone? What's the functional difference between a SL7 clone (-+25usd) and a cheap, long expander like this one (3usd, 90mm long)

[Easyfunk]

I'm no expert in mechanics. But the expanding mechanism is obviously different.

More important is my practical experience with both. The one you posted, did not work with my bike (carbon paste and up to 10nm). The specialized replica just worked. I had good experience with the normal original specialized expander, so I went this route having in mind that some extra stability could not do any harm.

There may be other options that work fine too. Just reflecting on my own personal experience with my bike here.

[Serge_K]

I did install a longer plug  (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.

Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.

I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore. 
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.

[Benbenben]

I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore. 
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.

Have you seen improvements following adding fiber paste? I think that to roughen the inner surface could help get traction.

[csanz]

Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.

[Serge_K]

Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.

people have had success fixing slipping seat posts with fiberglass cloth (in roll format). I think I'd try a bit of duct tape on that rail, the kind that has some cloth waved through. 9nm sounds right, idk if i'd want to go much higher.

[Easyfunk]

Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.

This clamp needs high torque. 12-15 NM are needed in my experience (own risk, I do not have official advise from VB). But you have to carefully align the rails with the clamp before. The clamps are full metal, so no worries here. Rails are fully carbon, so no big worries here, too.

[eldrakos]

I've reached VB for torque specs.
That's what I get:

Seatpost mount  5.5Nm
Saddle rails clamp  8.0Nm
Handlebar/stem bolts 5.0Nm
Expander plug 8.0Nm
Computer mount 3.0Nm
Brake caliper mounts 5.0Nm front and 8.0Nm Rear


I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.

[RasmusWH]

Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.

I was asked if I needed a seat clamp for round (aluminium/steel/titanium) or oval (carbon) seat rails, maybe you got the "wrong" one?

[patliean1]

I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.

Here are my steps, assuming after a fresh and proper brake bleed:

Step 1: Re-seat/Recess the pistons fully back into the caliper. Very important step.
Step 2: Loosen the caliper bolts.
Step 3: Firmly engage the brake to the rotor. I usually squeeze about 4-5 times to fully engage the pistons.
Step 4: Torque calipers bolts while brakes are engaged. Release brakes.
Step 5: Spin the wheel and inspect any rotor imbalances or brake rub. A white strip of paper behind the caliper really helps.
Step 6: Slightly loosen the caliper bolts and use metal shim.
Step 7: If that doesn't work you can also use a very thin plastic/paper one sided shim on either side of the rotor. Rotor shims can also be helpful if the wheel hub in general is too far offset/off-center at either side.

[taurusstier]

Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?

[Serge_K]

Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?

That metal lip of the plug is going to sit at the top of the steerer column. You have to cut that steerer so that there's space to compress the whole system. A few mm more won't make a difference, but measure twice cut once, ofc, you do want the stem to clamp on the steerer and not half void...
If that's unclear (it used to be unclear to me), there are YouTube videos that explain everything.